As temperatures drop and you shop for wines in the coming weeks, consider these as they are fine choices to weather the cold and match the heartier foods of the season.
Italian grape varieties have been grown in California for decades, though over time overshadowed by French varieties. But plantings of Italian varieties are increasing again. One of the more exciting projects is Centennial Mountain Vineyard, by the highly regarded Rhys Vineyards with California’s first plantings of nebbiolo and nerello mascalese in Sonoma County. The 2021 Nerello Mascalese ($59) offers abundant cherry, earth, smoke and oak notes, with balanced tannins. The 2021 Nebbiolo ($79) presents cherry, red berries, smoky, earthy, soil notes and stronger tannins. I found these impressive wines actually tasted better the next day after opening.
Zinfandel is the quintessentially American grape: an immigrant that succeeds here (California) better than anywhere else. Expect exuberant raspberry, cherry, and blackberry fruit, solid but approachable tannins, peppery and savory details
- 2022 Bricoleur “Rockpile”($65)bold, expressive, deep character, velvety structure
- 2023 Frank Family Napa Valley ($45) vibrant, ripe, well structured
- 2023 Hartford “Old Vine” ($40) bursting with brisk fruit, seamless, supple
- 2021 Murphy Goode “Liar’s Dice” ($21) fresh, juicy, inviting
Nonvintage Ruby Port generally is a producer’s entry level wine, typically fresh and exuberant with intense berry, grapey fruit, and a fine value. These “Reserve” Rubies test the definition with aging around 5 years before release developing more complexity.
- Cockburn’s ($25) luscious plum, cherry, balanced with anise and lightly spicy note
- Graham’s “Six Grapes” ($29) fragrant cherry, dark fruits, chocolate, full bodied
- Graham’s Six Grapes “Vila Velha” ($45) made from the Quinta do Vila Velha estate vineyards; minty, intense dark berries, blackcurrant, rich, dark chocolate
Vintage Ports are the iconic Ports of history but they are quite expensive. Enter Late Bottled Vintage Port, less expensive and more accessible. The Dow’s (2018, $30) shares the same vineyard sources as Dow’s legendary Vintage Port.
Tawny Port is distinguished from Ruby Port by a process that marries multiple vintages for average periods ranging from ten to forty years in cask, balancing intensity and elegance. Graham’s 10 Year Old Tawny ($46): hints of nut, honey, fig with mature fruit flavors and a luscious finish; and 20 Year Old Tawny ($80): enticing complexity of almond, orange and berries with impressive purity are fine examples.