I’m sitting here writing this column on the seventeenth straight 90°+ day glad that I have a glass of Riesling next to me to keep me refreshed.
I think the riesling grape makes the greatest white wines in the world. Especially in Germany and Alsace, it produces aromatic wines of bracing acidity and potentially long life. Typically, fragrant, floral aromas lead into fresh green apple and stone fruit – pear, peach, or apricot – and occasionally pineapple. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. Cooler climates in Australia, Canada, California and Oregon also produce good examples. But today I’m drinking and writing about Washington State Riesling.
You may be surprised to read that riesling was one of the first varieties grown in Washington and still is one of the state’s favorite wines. St. Michelle Wine Estates is the dominant player in the Washington wine industry. And the company has been in the forefront in establishing Riesling as the state’s premier white wine grape. And with Chateau St. Michelle, Columbia Crest, and Snoqualmie wineries it is the largest Riesling producer in the world.
Chateau St. Michelle, which was established in 1967 and pioneered contemporary fine wine making in Washington, is the state’s largest producer, yet consistently delivers quality at remarkable prices. And there is a style to fit your preference. The 2010 Dry ($9) sports refreshing peach notes. The 2010 Riesling ($9) is just slightly sweet, with juicy apple and pear. The 2010 Harvest Select, ($10) is quite sweet but balanced with crisp pear and apple.
Ever since its opening 35 years ago, it seems Columbia Crest perennially is recognized for providing outstanding value. This certainly true of the 2010 Grand Estates ($11) which impressed me with its juicy apple and pear fruit delivered with lively acidity that balances a slightly honeyed sweetness.
I also enjoyed the two Snoqualmie wines I tasted. The 2010 Winemaker’s Select ($10) is fairly sweet but crisp and refreshing and bursting with pear and apricot fruit. Snoqualmie has distinguished itself as a leader in sustainable farming and winemaking in Washington. The 2009 “Naked” Columbia Valley ($12) is made with certified organically grown grapes in a certified organic facility. It’s bright off-dry apricot fruit is off set with mineral and spice.
St. Michelle’s premier Riesling and arguably America’s best Riesling is Eroica, a collaboration with Germany’s renowned Dr. Loosen winery. The 2009 ($24), its tenth vintage, harmonizes succulent peach with crisp citrus, spice and mineral notes. As good as this outstanding wine is now, it will improve in the cellar.
Not far behind St. Michelle in production and influence is Pacific Rim. The brand was created by Randall Grahm of California’s Bonny Doon Vineyard in 1992 using Washington fruit and was sold to new owners who established it as its own winery in Washington in 2006. I believe these folks when they say they are passionate about Riesling, as 90% of their production comes from that grape. They make countless bottlings, including single vineyards, an organic Riesling and the three tasted for this report: a floral, citrus, 2010 Dry; a 2010 Riesling with slightly sweet pear and apple; and a luscious 2010 Sweet that revealed tropical and peach fruit. All are a wallet friendly $10.
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, Hogue Cellars is another large Washington winery that is known for great values. For 30 years, Hogue has made an extensive line of well-priced wines delivering good quality. Their 2009 Columbia Valley Riesling ($10) did not disappoint. Juicy green apple and a touch of orange come through with a nice balance of cleansing acidity and medium sweetness.
Finally, I must emphasize that numerous smaller wineries make excellent Riesling worth seeking out. Such as Seven Hills Winery, where Casey and Vicky McClellan have been making wine from their Walla Walla home since 1988. Casey crafts exceptional merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah, often considered at the top of the Washington quality ladder. He also makes excellent Riesling and Pinot Gris. I was extremely impressed with the 2009 Seven Hills Columbia Valley ($14). It was made in a refreshing low alcohol style that is slightly sweet but bursting with juicy apple, citrus and pear with an enticing mineral note.