The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

Italian wine, arguably more than any other, is made to be drunk with food. Generally, with slightly higher acidity, less noticeable oak, and more of a sense of the earth where the grapes originated, Italian wines just taste better with food. Here I focus on light-bodied reds (eight native grapes) for warm weather drinking. They are fruit-forward, have gentler tannins, and taste better with more of a chill.

To be more specific as to what foods to eat with these wines, I discussed pairing suggestions with sommelier Scott Thomas, “founder and lead educator” at Grappolo Wine School, and wine director at Denver’s Michelin recommended Restaurant Olivia. His creative suggestions for pairing with regional foods follow my tasting notes in italics.

Valpolicella (Veneto) Blended primarily from corvina, rondinella, and molinara grapes, notable for bright cherry flavors, gentle tannins, crisp, vibrant finish.

• 2021 Tenuta Sant’Antonio “Nanfrè” ($15) family-owned winery, estate-grown, organically farmed; super fresh, bright fruit; typical mixed antipasti: Prosciutto di Parma, salami, olives, assorted cheeses like Asiago

• 2017 I Latium Morini “Campo Prognai” Superiore ($21) fuller and richer with deep fruit and hints of spice; risotto or polenta dishes with a meat ragu

• 2021 Pasqua “PassioneSentimento” ($18) with merlot, intense fruit, some spice, velvety texture, muscular tannins; anything off the grill

Refosco (Venezia Giulia) 2015 Marco Felluga “Ronco Dei Moreri” ($21) hilltop vineyard, fresh, fruity, elegant; grilled or roasted seasonal vegetables, especially Radicchio di Treviso

Lagrein (Alto Adige) 2021 Kellerei Bozen (Cantina Bolzano) “Perl” ($20) cooperative of over 200 growers; spice, mineral, rounded tannins; braised meats or any mushroom-oriented dish; venison is common in the region

Schiava (Alto Adige) 2022 Alois Lageder ($18) biodynamic estate vineyards, sustainable; organic growers; fresh, fruity, moderate alcohol; while not regional, don’t be afraid to try with fish or seafood; the tannins are so soft that it makes for a refreshing pairing

Sangiovese (Tuscany) 2021 Tenuta Perano Chianti Classico ($28) lively fruit, herbal note, fresh texture; classic “pizza wine” or pastas with red sauce – Pappardelle and Pici are the regional pastas

Montepulciano (Marche) 2020 Garofoli “Piancarda” Rosso Cònero ($17) single vineyard, brambly, savory, spicy; lamb and montepulciano are a match made in heaven, one of the classic food pairings of the world

Primitivo (Puglia) 2022 Varvaglione 12 e Mezzo “Bio” ($16) organically grown, heady fruit, mint, cocoa, cola, spices, earth, powdery tannins, moderate alcohol; hard sheep’s milk cheese or, even better, American barbeque with a sweet tangy sauce

Nerello Mascalese (Sicily) 2020 Tenuta Tascante “Ghiaia Nera” ($22) grown on
the volcanic soils of Mt. Etna; super fresh, pure fruit, star anise, mineral; seasonal dishes that include tomatoes, eggplant, and basil or capers (like Caponata), and even Tuna steaks

Dotted with notable native white varieties, central and southern Italy offer a cornucopia of crisp, refreshing, distinctive white wines. They also offer adventurous drinking and are deal for warm weather. Here is a good start.

Sardinia and Tuscany. Vermentino is a rare variety, grown mostly Sardinia, Liguria and the western coast of Tuscany, where it produces crisp, medium-bodied wines with citrus, apple and suggestions of sea air.  

• 2022 Surrau “Sciala” ($29)special selections from the best vineyards in Sardiana; laced with citrus, almond, tangy saltiness
• 2022 Argentiera “Eco di Mare” ($33) from Tuscany’s coastal Maremma; pear, apricot, light mineral 
• 2022 Masso Vivo ($22) from Frescobaldi’s Ammiraglia estate in Maremma; floral, candied tropical and citrus fruit, mineral 
• 2022 Querciabella Mongrana ($16) certified organic, vegan; fruity, tangy citrus herbs sea breeze

Marche. Verdicchio, the region’s signature white grape, offers brisk apple, citrus, with stony notes. Its most distinguished version is labeled Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. These fine samples are from Garofoli, one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Marche.

• 2021 Podium ($30) single-vineyard selection, notable concentration, honey, mineral 
• 2022 Serra del Conte ($13) bright, juicy, a fine introductory wine

Abruzzo. In Italy’s most verdant region, there has been a resurrection of indigenous grapes, notably pecorino, an ancient variety once thought to be extinct, and trebbiano, the most widely planted grape. 

• Villa Gemma “Colline Teatine” IGT ($24) trebbiano pecorino blend, fruity, herbal, mineral
• 2021 Torre Sambra “Poggio Salaia” Pecorino ($17) organic, crisp, citrus, apricot 
• 2022 Masciarelli Trebbiano d’Abruzzo ($16) fresh, juicy, for everyday 

Lazio. The region with Rome at its heart is less known for its wines. But the 2019 Cotarella “Ferentano” ($25) from rare, indigenous roscetto grapes, succeeds with suggestions of banana, pineapple, caramel, vanilla, richness.

Sicily. Sicily is home to several noteworthy native grapes, especially the ancient native grape carricante from the newly treasured Mount Etna area. Designated Etna Bianco, these are fine examples.

• 2022 Tenuta Ferrata “Veni” ($27) in the heart of the World Heritage site; old vines; vibrant pear, vanilla, almond, light saltiness
• 2021 Palmento Costanzo “bianco dei sei” ($27) organic old vines, indigenous yeast; some catarratto; graceful citrus, mineral
• 2022 Tenuta Tascante “Buonora” ($24) estate vineyards, certified sustainable; sharp citrus, slate, fresh herbs

The wines below highlight three other native grapes and locations worth your attention.

• 2022 Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” ($30) malvasia di Lipari grape from Lipari Island off the northeast coast; fresh citrus, stone and tropical fruit 
• Tenute Navarra “Sofien” 2022 ($22) certified sustainable (environmental, social, governance) indigenous grillo (with chardonnay!), floral pear, peach, rounded 
• 2022 Sallier de la Tour Inzolia ($16) historically an important component of Marsala and many Sicilian blends; this certified sustainable varietal wine is dynamic with citrus, stone fruits and savory notes 

ITALIAN WHITES ARE IDEAL FOR WARMER WEATHER, PART 1: NORTHERN ITALY

While Italy is best known for its reds, there are numerous distinctive whites, primarily from indigenous grape varieties, most of them budget friendly and perfect for summer sipping. Let’s take a tour of Northern Italy. If there is a common thread, they use little or no oak and are notable for dramatic aromas, precise structure, and crisp, refreshing character.

Friuli-Venezia Giulia in the far northeast corner, especially the Collio subregion (near the border with Slovenia in view of the Alps and Adriatic Sea), is prized for superior white wines.

Notable for the American palate is Pinot Grigio. If you are used to American Pinot Grigio, recalibrate your expectations. These are not simple, light, subtle wines. These are brisk, juicy, and crisp, with an interplay of citrus, apple, pear, stone fruit, melon, and mineral. 

• 2022 Russiz Superiore ($35) high elevation estate owned by Marco Felluga, aromatic, energetic 
• 2022 Livio Felluga ($32) estate bottled, sinewy, refined, lush
• 2022 Marco Felluga “Mongris” ($21) fruity, almond, spicy herbs 

The area also produces other distinctive white wines, such as the vibrant, citrusy, 2022 Attems “Cicinis” Sauvignon Blanc ($29); and the 2019 Livio Felluga “Sigar” Friulano ($65) estate bottled, complex, creamy rich, velvety, almond.

Trentino-Alto Adige. Stretching north of Verona to the Dolomite Alps just below Austria, it is noteworthy mostly for distinctive white wines (generally varietally labeled, rather than geographically) with bracing acidity and substantive character. 

Pinot Grigio is stellar. As with the 2022 Alois Lageder “Porer” ($30), distinguished by a winemaking process that pressed some of the biodynamic grapes immediately to retain freshness, then allowed a portion to macerate on its skins for 15 hours, and a third portion with stems and skins for a year. The skin contact adding a slight tannic structure. And with two Lageder projects: 2022 Terra Alpina ($17) and 2022 Cantina Riff ($11) both using organic grapes from a select group of neighboring grape growers and representing excellent values.

And Lageder’s biodynamic, bright, complex 2021 “Versalto” Pinot Bianco ($28) showcases another specialty of the region. 

Veneto. Most consumers probably know Soave, produced around the city of Verona. Made predominantly of garganega, Soave charms with nectarine, apple, and melon. The impressive 2020 Inama Soave Classico “Carbonare” ($30) is a special selection from an old vine, organically farmed vineyard on the slopes of Monte Foscarino volcano.

Piedmont. Many are surprised that fine white wines are produced in Piedmont, notably form native varieties moscato bianco, arneis and cortese. Cortese produces a distinctive wine in the hands of a top producer like La Scolca whose 2022 Gavi dei Gavi ($45) is the winery’s flagship thanks to its old vine, estate grown, grapes yielding measured floral aromas of lime with nutty apple.

Given the nature of the wine industry in Colorado, I mostly only have opportunities to review wines from the West Coast, Europe and South America. But consider wine was first made in New Mexico in 1629, Texas in 1659, and Armenia over 6000(!) years ago, while (only) in California in 1767. Try these wines for a change. 

Vara is a new project from Laurent Gruet (well-known for the world class bubbles he produced for 40 years at Gruet in Albuquerque, New Mexico) and well-known California winemakers Bob Lindquist and Louisa Sawyer Lindquist. They produce wines, in Albuquerque, from Spanish grapes grown in Spain and various American vineyards, as well as sparkling wine. 

• Silverhead Brut ($27) crisp, classy blend of Washington chardonnay and syrah, and Spanish xarel-lo and macabeo; Brut Rosado ($27), brisk, vivid blend of Washington syrah and chardonnay
• 2021 Albariño (California, $30) juicy, citrus, tropical, and stone fruit 
• 2019 Garnacha (Spain, $24) fresh, fruitful, soft structure 
• 2020 Tempranillo Gold Label ($30) Spanish and American grapes; full-bodied, cherry, anise, eucalyptus

C.L. Butaud, founded in 2014 by Randy and Brooke Hester, who were trained at some of the most acclaimed Napa Valley wineries, uses only Texas grapes. It quickly has become recognized as a top Texas winery.

• 2021 Mourvèdre Desert Willow Vineyard ($38) red fruits, silky texture, ripe tannins 
• 2021 Cease & Desist Red Blend ($48) tempranillo, with syrah, mourvèdre; voluptuous, robust, velvety 
• 2021 Tempranillo Farmhouse Vineyards ($54) flagship wine; expressive, solid structure 

I suspect Armenian wine is not on many consumers’ radar. But it should be. It is undergoing a renaissance as expats driven by a desire to reconnect with their heritage return to ancestral lands, revive vineyards, and rekindle winemaking traditions. Wisely, this centers on a resurrection of indigenous grape varieties (voskehat, areni, milagh, khatuni, qrdi, and garan demak) grown on some of the highest elevation vineyards in the world.  

• 2019 Noa Areni ($32) aromatic, cherry, savory spices, cedar, concentrated
• 2020 Zulal Voskehat ($25) aromatic, pear, pineapple, refreshing 
• 2019 Yacoubian-Hobbs Dry White ($30) collaboration of winemaker Paul Hobbs and the Yacoubian family; fresh, aromatic, lime, green apple, minerality
• Keush “Origins” ($24) sparkling wine, crisp, apple, peach, toasted almond
• Shofer Rose ($21) areni grapes, century-old, ungrafted vines, fresh, full character 

Finally, a rare wine from California.

Left Bend is a collaboration between winegrower Richard Hanke and winemaker Gary Robinson focused on mountain grown fruit from Santa Cruz Mountains. “Mashup”, their most interesting product, uses a solera aging system, a method traditionally used for Spanish Sherry. The resulting Mashup “Version 7” ($75) is a multi-vintage blend (cabernet sauvignon, syrah, tempranillo, petit verdot, cabernet franc) of aged wine from vintages dating back to 2010 that provides a smooth mouthfeel and complexity plus younger wine that adds a fresh fruitiness. 

Over the last 75 years, Oregon has matured into a world class wine producer. But not just the Willamette Valley, though it gets most of the attention. Southern Oregon, especially the Rogue Valley, also deserves consumer attention. 

The city of Medford is the center of the Rogue Valley and a good home base for a visit. In addition to a variety of outdoor activities, the Valley is home to nearly forty wineries. Here I feature two. 

Foris Vineyards is only 7 miles within the Oregon border. Surrounded by several pristine wilderness areas, Foris now boasts higher elevation estate vineyards, also just 25 miles east of the Pacific Ocean. It represents the origins of contemporary winemakingin the Rogue Valley as it has been family-owned since it was established in 1974, its first vineyard planted in 1975, and the winery founded in 1986. While Oregon is best known these days for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, Foris is even more known for its estate grown Alsace white wines like Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, and Riesling. 

The wines also represent fine values, with the whites $20 or less and the reds $30 or less. There is a lovely, rich 2021 Dry Gewurztraminer ($17) with lychee, grapefruit and licorice. For pleasant citrus, stone and tropical fruit, with a touch of spice, look to the 2022 Chardonnay ($20). And the 2021 Pinot Noir ($22) shows deep juicy red cherry and plum with a hint of fennel. 

Troon Vineyard, on the other hand, can be seen as representing the evolution of Oregon wine’s social and environmental consciousness. Oregon has long been a leader with many wineries certified organic, Salmon-Safe (watershed protection), and LIVE (Low Input Viticulture and Enology), LEED (green buildings) and Food Alliance (safe working conditions, animal welfare). 

Located in the Applegate Valley sub-appellation, Troon is a Certified Demeter Biodynamic® and Regenerative Organic Gold Certified® biodiverse farm, including riparian habitat, cider apples, a garden, honeybees, sheep, chickens, wildlife, and dogs. The ROC® program is a comprehensive agriculture certification that requires farms to maintain organic certification, increase soil health (through composting, minimizing soil disturbance), provide fair and safe conditions for employees 

Troon’s focus is on grapes from Southern France. The winemaking team crafts wines using minimal intervention practices. The grapes are spontaneously fermented with indigenous yeasts and no additives, and avoiding the use of new oak barrels, which tend to overwhelm the nuances of the grapes.

This yields wines like the 2022 Vermentino ($30) with its succulent orange and lemon with hint of spice and lush texture. The 2022 Druid’s Red ($25) and its red cherry, plum, lightly chalky, soft texture from grenache, syrah, and mourvedre. And the bright blue fruits, eucalyptus, and light pepper of the elegant 2021 Syrah ($35). 

While most of the attention regarding sustainability in the wine world understandably has been on practices in the vineyard, there is growing interest and understanding of the importance of social sustainability.

The recent California Sustainable Winegrowing Summit (by the U.S. Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance) panel titled “The People Pillar of Sustainability: Inclusive Workplaces & Hospitality” explored how “social sustainability is about how businesses impact people, including employees and customers.” 

This includes community involvement and charitable giving, thought these have been common among wineries as long as I can remember. But it seems social responsibility and being a good neighbor are increasing in importance. This often includes participating in community forums and working with advocacy groups to hear concerns and solve problems.

An even more promising sign is that many wineries are seeking help in addressing social and economic issues. For some, this translates to changing the business model. The most common transformation is to become certified as a “B Corp”. The mission of such “benefit corporations” is to “balance profit with purpose”. According to the certifying entity, B lab, it is a model “that moves from concentrating wealth and power to ensuring equity, from extraction to generation, and from prioritizing individualism to embracing interdependence.”

And some other sustainability certifications now include elements for workplace and community. As Anne Bousquet, co-owner and CEO of Argentina’s Domaine Bousquet noted to me: “As an economist by trade, my approach to sustainability extends well beyond the vineyard and winery. To be truly sustainable, I believe you also need to be socially and economically sustainable. I am as proud of our work investing in our employees and the local community (reflected in our B Corp, Regenerative Organic Certified and Fair for Life status), as I am of our successes in bringing down our carbon footprint.” 

As you shop, know these wineries also are B Corp certified: 

U. S.: A to Z, Bonterra, Chehalem, Clif Family, O’Neill Vintners, River Road, Sokol Blosser, Spottswoode, Stoller.

Imported: Avignonesi, Bollinger, Charles Heidsieck, Concha y Toro, Domaines Barons de Rothschild Lafite, Emiliana, Felton Road, Feudi de San Gregorio, Hecht & Bannier, Los Vascos, Planeta, Piper Heidsieck, Symington Family Estates, Tasca d’Almerita. 

And even Wine Enthusiast magazine is a B Corp . 

Although climate change is still looming ominously over us all, I am encouraged by recent developments in the wine industry. And that consumer awareness is growing and driving change. Of course we want our wine to taste good. But we also want to know what’s in our glass – and what’s not in our glass. We want to know that the journey from grape to glass was an honorable one – for the workers, the community and the planet. And producers all along the supply chain are beginning to listen. 

While most of the attention regarding sustainability in the wine world understandably has been on the vineyard, many also recognize the importance of practices in the winery – winemaking, related production processes, packaging, distribution, and employee relations. 

The industry still has a way to go but is showing progress. There has been extensive adoption of winemaking practices focused on eliminating or significantly minimizing use of chemicals and other additions (like sulfites, coloring, acids, commercial yeast). 

More attention is being paid to building materials and construction, efforts to conserve energy and water, and reduce use of fossil fuels. Reuse and recycling, including barrels and shipping materials is becoming more common. 

But working conditions and treatment for vineyard workers demand even more attention as labor abuse is still a problem in the industry. Just within the last few years, there have been high profile exploitation scandals in Puglia, Champagne, South Africa and California. 

Still improving worker relations – including good benefits (health care, pensions, company-paid education, employee development, safety programs, fair compensation, and DEI (diversity, equity, inclusion) is not just a fad or green washing. Respect for the contributions of every employee is becoming a hallmark.

Lately, there has been a seemingly sudden interest in “decarbonizing” packaging and transport, which contributes up to 50% of the carbon footprint of a bottle of wine. Bag-in-box wines have been around since the 1970’s but have grown significantly in the last two decades. Canned wines have achieved popularity, too. Now we seem to have crossed a threshold of concerns about bottle weight. Respected wine writers Jancis Robinson (Oxford Companion to Wine), Eric Asimov (New York Times), and Dave McIntyre (Washington Post) have promoted lighter bottle weights. And Karen MacNeil (The Wine Bible) has announced her company “will no longer write about wines that come in heavy luxury glass bottles.” Adding, “(m)aybe wineries continue to think we’ll be (and you’ll be) impressed by big overblown bottles, instead of what really counts – the wine inside. We are NOT impressed.” 

If this interests you, you have a chance to sample numerous examples of sustainably produced wines at the annual Wine Spectator Grand Tour, which for the first time will be in Denver at the Sheraton Downtown Hotel, Saturday, May 11. The Grand Tour is known for bringing some of the best wines from around the world to its events. Attendees will have the opportunity to taste over 230 wines. 

Among them you will find leaders in sustainability such as Archery Summit, Chappellet, Domaine Bousquet, Hamel Family, Kendall-Jackson, Masciarelli, Numanthia, Ponzi, Résonance, Rodney Strong, Seghesio, Seña, Three Sticks. 

A ticket provides an evening of unlimited tasting and allows attendees to meet and mingle with winemakers from top regions around the world. Check out https://grandtour.winespectator.com/denver. 

In recent years as I have learned more about the wine industry, it has become clear we are seeing an accelerating shift towards more sustainable models of wine production. And while the foundation of this shift is how the grapes grown, more and more sustainability encompasses all aspects of production and sales. 

I see several elements that show up to various degrees in this movement. And while there are incidents of “green washing” – where producers put more into marketing than actually doing the work – many producers genuinely are committed to this. And not just for their own survival but also that of future generations. 

In this column, I begin with the foundation of sustainability, the soil and the vineyard. 

I’m guessing it’s been at least sixty-plus years since farmers and soon after winegrowers began asserting the benefits of organic farming. Of course, it has been said “organic farming” used to be called just “farming” (before the rise of chemical applications). Since that time, although a slow process and still accounting for only about 8% of all vineyard land, increasingly organics have been adopted in the last twenty years and especially the last ten. 

Producers who don’t want to follow the strict rules, or pay the cost, to achieve an organic certification but still want to be responsible may employ “sustainable” methods like avoiding chemical fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides. But without certification, there is no way to be sure.

Biodynamic farming, which originated in the 1920s, has gained increasing interest among growers who want to go beyond organics to treat the farm as a living, interrelated organism by integrating practices such as use of composting and cover crops, and incorporating animals.

The current state-of-the-art is regenerative agriculture. Mark Neal of Neal Family Vineyards (the first Napa Valley winery Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC®) with wines from 100% Biodynamic® certified vineyards) describes regenerative organic farming as “a form of agriculture that combines the principles of organic farming and biodynamic farming. The goal is to improve the overall quality of soil health without the use of synthetic fertilizers, pesticides, or genetically modified organisms, while simultaneously enriching the surrounding ecosystem, biodiversity, and animal welfare. Regenerative organic farmers use techniques such as cover cropping, crop rotation, and composting to build healthy soil and sequester carbon.”

Anne Bousquet, co-owner and CEO of Domaine Bousquet, which is also ROC® certified, says “When it comes to sustainability, organic, biodynamic and regenerative farming all strive toward the same goals, to increase the quality of grapes and preserve the land for future generations. The health of our vineyards has always been very good, the result of working organically from the outset.  But working regeneratively has taken vineyard health to the next level.” 

Organic wine has been growing in Argentina by leaps and bounds over the last two decades. Certified organic vineyard land grew something like 273% from 2005 to 2023. While wineries all over the world have been shifting to sustainable, earth friendly approaches, wineries in Argentina particularly have committed to sustainable viticulture out of respect for the environment and the desire to preserve it for future generations.

Bodega Argento is one of Argentina’s largest producers of certified organic wines. They also employ various sustainability practices, including various energy-saving efforts; various water treatment and reuse measures; use of recycled materials, and composting. The wines of its Estate Collection, 2022 Malbec-Cabernet Franc and 2022 Malbec, express impressive freshness and structure at the price ($15).

Art of Earth is an organization of 29 cooperatives and around 5,000 winegrowers, managing more than 60,000 acres of vineyard plantings located in the Mendoza and San Juan regions. Art of Earth wines ($12) are made from 100% certified organic grapes. The bright red fruit and smooth tannins of the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon and mouth-watering tropical fruit and crisp finish of the 2022 Chardonnay.

Bodegas Bianchi shows its commitment to the environment by incorporating biodiversity to maintain healthy vineyards as the foundation of the organic grapes. And includes complimentary water management and energy efficiency practices. The Bianchi Organic wines ($17), 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2022 Malbec are made in an easy drinking style showcasing juicy fruit.

Domaine Bousquet is a leading pioneer in organic winegrowing. Its vineyards have been certified organic since planting in virgin terrain began in 1997. Recently, it became the fourth wine estate and the first outside the U.S. to earn Regenerative Organic Certified (ROC)™ status. Its premium varietal series of entry-level wines ($13) are made from estate-grown and purchased 100% certified organic grapes from high-altitude vineyards and unoaked to let the fruit shine through and make exuberant, succulent wines like the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2022 Malbec and 2023 Unoaked Chardonnay in my tasting.

Argentina’s neighbor on the west side of the Andes mountains, Chile also is on the forefront of wine’s sustainability movement. Chile’s wine industry created the wine world’s first-ever Sustainability Codes, ensuring that local wineries produce responsibly and protect the environment and the community. 

Root: 1 was Chile’s first certified 100% sustainable winery. It also was the first in the country to adopt carbon offset measures and has developed and implemented five sustainability pillars: Clean Energy, Water Conservation, Waste Management, Minimal Intervention, and Community Connection. It’s line of estate bottled wines ($12) include a concentrated, structured 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon and a refreshing, citrusy 2022 Sauvignon Blanc. 

Portugal long has been a “go to” source of fine value wines … and it still is. Predominantly red wines (Vinho Tinto) but some notable white wines (Vinho Branco), predominantly from native grapes generally are full flavored and well structured. 

The Douro Valley, stretching east from the coastal city of Porto, is considered one of the most scenic regions in the world. And has achieved international praise for its remarkable invention – Port. But its table wines also need to be on your shopping list.

From its Quinta do Vesúvio, the Symington family, a fifth generation Port producer, offers several fine table wines. Comboio do Vesúvio (2019, $22), is a new addition to the line, unoaked to underscore its youthful, bright, fresh red fruits, herbs and woodsy notes. 

Prats & Symington is a 25-year partnership between the Symington and Prats (former owner of Chateau Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux) families. The wines are made from one of the Douro’s greatest estate vineyards, Quinta de Roriz, which dates from 1565, and the deep valley microclimate that is Quinta da Perdiz. 

Post Scriptum (2021, $28) is the “second wine” from the flagship wine Chryseia, designed for earlier consumption. Well-structured and expressive, it offers juicy currant and cherry, herb and tea accents, and fine tannins. Prazo de Roriz (2021, $18) sports fresh, fruity red berries and easy drinking.  

Casa Ferreirinha, whose property dates to 1751, is associated with the Ferreira Port house but today is known as a leader in Douro table wines. It is best known for making the rare and prized Barca Velha (only 19 vintages since 1952). 

But its everyday red wines are very good – and more available. The 2019 Callabriga ($35) presents rich dark fruit, earthy notes, good concentration, and silky tannins. The 2018 Vinha Grande ($22) is elegant, with fresh red fruits, and light spice.

While the Douro has received the most market attention, the wines of the Alentejo (al-en-tey-zhu) have asserted themselves recently. The region is a major producer of wine corks and houses UNESCO World Heritage sites. Vineyards have been present there for over 3,000 years. The region also has a history as a leader in sustainability. 

The Quinta da Fonte Souto estate, is the first foray of the Symington family outside of the Douro. Its 2019 Tinto ($26) is lively, aromatic, with elegant black fruits and fine texture. The 2021 Branco ($26) shows bright citrus and apricot, with a lush texture from barrel fermentation. 

Herdade do Esporão is the largest family-owned winery and vineyard in the Alentejo and among the largest organic wineries in the world. Many of its wines also are vegan. This includes the sweet berry, lightly spicy 2021 Reserva Tinto ($23) and vibrant, peachy 2022 Branco ($23).