Many of the holidays of December – Hannukah, Advent, Christmas, Kwanzaa, New Year’s Eve (and maybe others) – have historical, cultural or religious meaning and associated rituals. They all have traditional foods and celebrations … and accompanying wine. This year, for the wine, I am looking to Italy for some of its food friendly and good value wines.
Known for its delightful fizziness, touch of sweetness, and low alcohol content (about 6% ABV), Moscato is an incredibly versatile crowd pleaser. It is enjoyed as an aperitif, paired with spicy food, and enhances desserts. Piedmont’s Moscato d’Asti is the best. Taste what I mean with the peach and apricot of the 2019 Vietti ($16) and the honeyed 2019 Marchesi di Grésy “La Serra” ($17). Even less expensive, the juicy citrus of the 2020 Centorri Moscato di Pavia ($10) from grapes sourced in the Lombardy region, not far from Asti.
In the Veneto, the indigenous corvina variety (often combined with small amounts of local grapes rondinella, corvinone and molinara) is used to make Valpolicella, a light, easy drink. Try it chilled. I recently enjoyed these from two benchmark Veneto producers. The 2017 Zenato ClassicoSuperiore ($17) is soft and supple, bright and refreshing. The 2019 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio “Nanfrè” ($15) is a lighter, more vibrant style with lively cherry fruit.
A small, little known subregion in the Tuscan Maremma, Montecucco is a leader in sustainable viticulture and a good alternative to Chianti. Most grapes (predominantly sangiovese) are certified organic, as with the 2018 Le Pianore “Tiniatus” ($18), which is pleasantly dry and persistent with fresh tannins.
The most well-known wine produced in Abruzzo, Montepuciano d’Abruzzo is an ideal everyday wine and good value. The montepulciano grape is planted throughout central Italy but is most prominent in Abruzzo. It tends to be robust, with ripe fruit, powerful tannins, and hints of spice, pepper and earth.
Of the wines in my tasting, I preferred the 2018 Illuminati “Riparosso” ($18) single vineyard for its juicy red fruits, savory notes and elegant structure. The 2018 La Valentina ($15) was fruitful and spicy with a solid backbone. The 2016 Valori “Bio” ($17) nicely displayed its organically grown grapes with earthy freshness. The 2016 Feuduccio Santa Maria d’Orni “Fonte Venna” ($16) offered darker fruit and a softer palate.
Like wines made with zinfandel? Did you know it is a relative of primitivo from Puglia in Italy’s heel? The grape was brought to Southern Italy from Croatia in the 1700s and has thrived in the warm vineyards of Salento ever since. The Masseria Li Veli “Orion” (2019, $15) is exuberant and lightly spicy and one of my favorites.
If you are looking for a wine splurge for the holidays, California Cabernet Sauvignon is a great place to start. The following recommendations are the best California Cabernet Sauvignon wines I tasted this year. They are exemplary representations of why Napa Cab is internationally sought after. I have listed recommended wines in order of my preference but you really can’t go wrong with any of these.
2018 Cardinale ($325). Established in 1982, Cardinale follows a mission to produce a distinctive Cabernet Sauvignon that expresses the essence of Napa Valley each vintage. Long-time winemaker, Christopher Carpenter sources grapes from top vineyards in many of the sub-appellations in the valley, with an emphasis on mountain-grown sources. Each vineyard brings its own personality and flavor contributions to create a singular manifestation of the vintage. Cardinale epitomizes the craft of blending to create a wine whose whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
The 2018 melds grapes from seven appellations with Spring Mountain and Howell Mountain forming the core and Diamond Mountain District, Mount Veeder, St. Helena, and Stags Leap District filling out the quilt. With the intensity and age-worthy tannins of mostly mountain-grown cabernet and rich character of lower elevation fruit (including 10% merlot) layered complexity with brilliant black and blue fruit, minerality, and a securing structure are the hallmarks of this masterpiece. It is emblematic of Cardinale as an expression of grace, subtly, and power.
2018 Larkmead “Solari” ($200). The historic Larkmead estate in the Calistoga appellation is one of the oldest family-owned wineries in Napa Valley. Founded in 1895, current proprietors Cam Baker and Kate Solari Baker (whose family has owned the property since 1948) have elevated this legendary valley floor vineyard to a level where cabernet sauvignon grapes, ripen beautifully in the well-drained alluvial, gravelly soils (with clay and loam).
Winemaker Avery Heelan captures the nuance and complexity of this site that is more typical of a hillside than the valley floor by vinifying small lots according to clonal selection and soil type. The result is an intensely flavored, broad, full 100% cabernet sauvignon with ripe black currant, red berries, savory and herbal notes all pulled together with a solid backbone.
2018 Cliff Lede “Magic Nights” Rock Block Series ($110). Lede Family Wines was founded in 2002 in the Stags Leap District, an area prized for its volcanic soils from ancient volcanic eruptions and erosion of the nearby Vaca Mountains, mixed with loam and clay sediments from the Napa River. Cliff Lede’s love of music permeates the winery and its wines, particularly the Rock Block Series, special estate vineyard blocks named for Mr. Lede’s favorite songs.
The name of this blend (92% cabernet sauvignon, 5% petit verdot and 3% merlot) is derived from The Who’s “Magic Bus” (block located in the estate’s esteemed Poetry vineyard) and from The Moody Blues’ “Nights in White Satin” (block located in the Twin Peaks vineyard). Winemaker Christopher Tynan ensures that these sources merge to form a wine of grace and power, structure and luxurious ripeness, with concentrated dark fruit and enticing savory notes.
2018 Mt. Brave Mount Veeder ($100). Mt. Brave was established in 2007 with the purchase of property that previously was known as Chateau Potelle. Located on the western ridges of the Mayacamas Mountains in the Mt. Veeder appellation, the name is a tribute to the original inhabitants of the area, the Wappo tribe, known as “the brave ones”.
This wine is 88% cabernet sauvignon, 6.5% cabernet franc, 3% merlot, 1.5% petit verdot and 1% malbec. It delivers vibrant black, blue and red fruits, and herbal, floral and spice notes with a sense of mineral. Firm yet refined tannins balance bold fruit and a dense structure balances an oaky lushness.
2018 Nickel & Nickel “State Ranch” ($125). Established by the partners of Far Niente, Nickel & Nickel is based on a philosophy of producing 100% varietal, single-vineyard wines that best express the distinct personality of each vineyard.
State Ranch is located northeast of the town of Yountville. Winemaker Joe Harden has coaxed its attributes – rocky, clay loam soil and excellent drainage – into a wine with typically ample fruit and velvety tannins. It is a powerful, plush wine teeming with [dark berries, cassis, chocolate, and herbal and spice accents all delivered in a firm yet velvety frame.
2018 Aperture Cellars Alexander Valley ($70). Founded in 2009 in Sonoma County by winemaker Jesse Katz with his father, world famous photographer Andy Katz, Aperture’s main focus is on Bordeaux varieties. From the “Soil Series”, this wine reflects Mr. Katz’s winemaking approach to coax the energy of the soil as translated into the grapes to shine through his wines.
This wine is a blend of 86% cabernet sauvignon, 7% malbec, 5% merlot and 2% petit Verdot. It is refined and rich with concentrated currant and blackberry, hints of herbs and tobacco, and a glossy texture, all showing power and freshness.
2018 Priest Ranch “Snake Oil” ($110). The original Priest Ranch estate was established in 1869 by James Joshua Priest, a Gold Rush prospector. In 2004, three families purchased this historic property, as part of the larger Somerston Estate. Located high on the eastern hill of the Vaca Mountains near Lake Hennessey east of Pritchard Hill above St. Helena, the estate’s varied range in elevations, exposures, soils, and microclimates allow Winemaker and Co-founder Craig Becker to create wines that showcase distinct expressions of each terroir.
With Snake Oil, Mr. Becker skillfully blended multiple blocks of old vine cabernet sauvignon to shape a full-bodied, unctuous wine of dark fruits, accentuated with touches of earth, and tobacco.
2018 Spottswoode Lyndenhurst ($85). Spottswoode Winery, another family-owned producer five miles southeast of Larkmead is widely regarded as among Napa Valley’s elite. The estate was founded in the 1880s but the winery was established by Mary Weber Novak in 1982. Spottswoode is a leader in sustainable farming and business practices. Now Mary’s daughters, Beth and Lindy, and Aron Weinkauf, winemaker and vineyard manager, steward this special property.
While Spottswoode’s Estate Cabernet Sauvignon typically is among the valley’s best each vintage, Lyndenhurst is the estate’s second wine, with about half of its fruit from the estate vineyard and the rest from trusted growers. It’s bold mixed berry fruit, herbal complexities, fine energy and lush texture is impressive in its own right. And at less than half the price of the first wine, it is a fine value.
2018 Faust “The Pact” ($125). This wine is 100% cabernet sauvignon from Faust’s estate vineyard in Coombsville, Napa Valley’s furthest south appellation. Its proximity to San Pablo Bay (grapes benefit from a long, cool growing season) and the Vaca Mountains (soils laced with ancient volcanic ash and silt) create the conditions for excellence.
Add careful selection from the premier blocks of the vineyard by Winemaker David Jelinek and you get The Pact. The 2018 opens with fresh aromas of black cherries, black currants and blueberries with minerals, tobacco, and cocoa notes riding on a silky yet bright frame.
2017 Sullivan “Coeur de Vigne” ($90). While this property in the heart of the Napa Valley has had a storied history, it notably became the highly respected Sullivan Rutherford Estate in the 1970’s, with vineyard planting guided by the legendary Rutherford winemaker Andre Tchelistcheff. A family partnership led by Juan Pablo Torres Padilla acquired the property in 2018 and set about elevating the vineyards and the wines.
Winemaker Jeff Cole succeeds at that goal with 75% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot and 3% malbec. The wine delivers concentrated cherry, plum and cassis, with earth and tobacco notes and a pleasantly dense texture.
While Chianti is the best-known Tuscan wine in the U.S., a little attention reveals a wide variety of other fine wines from Italy’s best-known wine region. In central Tuscany where the Chianti zone extends roughly from Florence south to Siena, there are other highly regarded denominations north of Florence and south of Siena. And then there is the “new frontier” of the Maremma in the western part of the region along the Tyrrhenian Sea coast. Let’s visit a few.
Most of the wines, though, still use sangiovese as their foundation. One of Italy’s many indigenous grape varieties, sangiovese truly shines in Tusany. Typically, quality wines made with sangiovese exhibit deep, bright cherry aromas and flavors with firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Generally, it is blended with other native varieties, though increasingly Bordeaux grapes are part of the mix.
This is the case in so-called “Super Tuscans”, which actually originated in Chianti in the 1970’s but are most associated with the Maremma along the Tyrrhenian Sea., especially the Bolgheri subzone. However, cabernet sauvignon has been cultivated in Carmignano (about a dozen miles northwest of Florence) since the 1700s. In order to qualify as a Carmignano wine today, the blend must include at least 50 percent sangiovese and 10-20% cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc. Small amounts of canaiolo nero, and the white grapes trebbiano and malvasia, are permitted.
About the same distance east of Florence, within the Chianti Rufina zone lies the tiny Pomino denomination (actually within the Chianti Rufina subzone). Recognized for its quality as far back as the 1700’s by the Medici, its high elevation vineyards typically produce brighter toned fruit than elsewhere in Tuscany. Its Rosso (red) wines require a minimum 50% Sangiovese and can contain up to 50% Merlot or Pinot Nero, and a maximum of 25% other red grapes.
The commune of Montepulciano southeast of Siena is home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Its name reflects its popularity with royalty over the centuries. The wines must contain at least 70 percent sangiovese (known locally as prugnolo gentile) blended with other local varieties like canaiolo nero, and mammolo.
West of Montepulciano, the coastal vineyards of the southern Maremma are drawing recent attention for Morellino di Scansano. Named for the village of Scansano and the local name for sangiovese (the wine must contain at least 85%), growing conditions here favor supple, inviting wines and fine sangiovese values.
Finally, the most famous part of the Maremma is up the coast in the Bolgheri zone. Also just a few miles from the coast, Bolgheri is home to such famous Super Tuscans as Tenuta San Guido’s Sassicaia, Tenuta Guado al Tasso, and Ornellaia.
And now the wines:
CARMIGNANO
Tenuta di Capezzana, the exemplary producer of Carmignano, is located 12 miles northwest of Florence in the Carmignano subzone. Its vines are farmed organically and, all of these wines are fermented with native indigenous yeasts. Its history dates to the 14th century and was one of the first designated wine regions in the world (by the Medici) in 1716.
2018 Barco Reale di Carmignano DOC ($18) Capezzana’s entry-level bottling, a younger version of Carmignano named after the historic Medici property known as “Barco Reale” – meaning Royal Property – which was established in 1626. 75% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Canaiolo, and 5% Cabernet Franc
2016 Villa di Capezzana Carmignano DOC ($30) With vintages dating back to 1925 in their cellar, Villa di Capezzana is the flagship wine of the Tenuta di Capezzana estate and represents the best of Carmignano as a region. 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
2013 Ghiaie della Furba Toscana IGT ($51) Made only in the best vintages, this Bordeaux-style blend was first created in 1979 from vineyards planted along the pebble (Ghiaie) rich soils of the Furba stream planted with clippings from Château Lafite. 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Syrah, and 25% Merlot
2015 Trefiano Carmignano Riserva DOCG ($59) Made in only the best vintages, the grapes come from five hectares of vineyards that surround the historic Villa di Trefiano located in the Carmignano DOCG. 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Canaiolo
POMINO ROSSO
2016 Fattoria Selvapiana “Villa Petrognano” ($21) FattoriaSelvapiana, the esteemed Chianti Rufina estate that farms its vineyards organically, contracts to produce wine from vineyards at Villa Petrognano, also are farmed organically. 60% sangiovese, 20% merlot and 20% cabernet sauvignon combine for a lithe, smoky wine balanced with lively red fruits.
VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO
Relatively young by Tuscan standards (sixty years), Poliziano has established itself as a leader in Montepulciano. Farming its vineyards organically, its wines allow consumers to experience the range of Montepulciano terroir.
2019 Rosso di Montepulciano ($17) Nice entry-level wine meant for earlier consumption and everyday drinking, this is made up of 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot and is aged almost entirely in stainless-steel tanks to preserve the freshness and vivacity of the wine.
2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($30) offers bright fruit, earthy, toasty notes and polished tannins. From younger vines and with 20% merlot, it’s softer, yet sports a juicy and fresh palate.
2017 Vino Nobile di Montepulciano “Asinone” ($63) A limited production wine (95% – 100% sangiovese, depending on the vintage), from Poliziano’s best vineyard, it is rich, deep, succulent, vibrant and concentrated fruit; firmly structured with vanilla, spice, leather, tobacco, and herbal notes.
MORELLINO DI SCANSANO
Considered by some as the new frontier of Maremma, many established Tuscan producers are founding outposts in this southwest corner of Tuscany. Such as Poliziano, which began planting vineyards here about twenty years ago.
2018 Lohsa Morellino di Scansano ($16) from owners of Poliziano; farmed organically; 85% morellino enhanced with 15% of the local grape ciliegiolo, its ripe fruit is lightly herbaceous with forest notes, firm yet lush. Fine value. owned by Poliziano; farmed organically;
BOLGHERI
2019 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia ($34) The attractively priced entry level wine of the super expensive Super Tuscan Ornellaia, Le Volte is a juicy blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese. It expresses lively fruit of plum and red berries with suggesttions of flowers and herbs. It is nicley balanced and well filled drinking with friendly tannins for an inviting mouthfeel.
2107 Castello del Terriccio “Tassinaia” ($34) About fifteen miles north of Ornellaia, this lesser known but outstanding producer of Super Tuscan wines, planted its vineyards four miles from the coast in the 1980s (though the property has a thousand-year-long history) with cuttings from some of France’s top estates. Castello del Terriccio’s flagship, Lupicaia, comes at over $100 a bottle. Tassinaia – a blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot in almost equal amounts – is more accessible. It offers inviting red fruits, earthy notes, and a firm but fresh texture.
In the heart of California’s Central Coast – halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, lies the Paso Robles Wine Country, a land of rich heritage, rural beauty, and world-class wines. While Napa and Sonoma remain the most popular destinations, with more than 200 wineries, a quaint but lively hub in the town of Paso Robles, and numerous artisans throughout the region, Paso Robles should be on your radar for your next wine country visit.
Similarly, while most consumers think of Napa and Sonoma when they think of California Cabernet Sauvignon, they also should think of Paso Robles. Wineries including Adelaida, Booker, Daou, L’Aventure, and Linne Calodo consistently produce world class cabernet-based wines. There also are fine values, notably from J. Johr and Robert Hall.
Absolution Colburn Vyd
Paso also has emerged as a leader in producing wines from Rhône varieties. Especially with acclaimed wineries including Tablas Creek, Saxum, Austin Hope and Vina Robles. In my tasting, the 2019 Absolution Grenache Colburn Vineyard ($41) showed concentrated red fruits complimented with herbal notes and minerality. The 2020 Paix Sur Terre “Days Between” Glenrose Vineyard ($45), 100% counoise, reflected the grape’s typically elegant and vibrant red berry and spices.
From creative blends to pioneering Rhône varieties to frizzante to sparkling wines, Paso cultivates an adventurous spirit. A 2017Anarchy “Superfly” ($55) blends zinfandel (origin Croatia), cabernet sauvignon (origin southwestern France) and petite sirah (origin Rhône) for a bold, rich, juicy wine. A 2020Groundwork Picpoul Carbonique ($18) was made using carbonic maceration (a common practice with Beaujolais) and extended skin contact (uncommon practice with white grapes often referred to as “orange wine”, resulting in a white wine that looks and drinks more like a rose). It was fruity and herbal with saline undertones and a touch of fizz. The 2020 Peachy Canyon Pét-Nat ($18), short for Pétillant Naturel, or naturally sparkling, this is a style of bubbly (fermented in the bottle to retain its fizz) that has been practiced for centuries but for some reason has recently become trendy. Made with grenache, it presents the bright red berries and fruity nature of the grape.
Paso also offers fine values. Here, J. Lohr is a reliable source with a wide range of well-priced wines. I had a really good value in my tasting, the 2016 True Myth ($24). It is produced by the Niven Family Wine Estates based in Edna Valley in southern San Louis Obispo County. But the family recognized the wisdom of sourcing the grapes from Paso Robles. And the wine succeeds with rich blackberry, herbal notes, and smoky, dusty oak, finishing with elegant tannins. I also enjoyed the 2019 Broadside Margarita Vineyard Merlot ($18) in my tasting. It balances soft tannins with bright acidity and sweet berry fruit. And it is SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Certified, indicating the use of third-party approved sustainable farming and business practices. considering “people, planet and profit.”
Paso Robles is a favorite destination for more than just the wines. It is one of my favorite wine regions to visit. In addition to world class restaurants, such as il Cortile and Thomas Hill Organics, there is an abundance of artisan producers worth sampling. For example, Bristols Cider House in nearby Atascadero. Their Black Bart sparkling cider in my tasting is 100% local apples, dry hopped with second fermentation in bottle. The Firestone Walker Brewery is one of the nation’s most awarded breweries. I found the Flyjack IPA, a hazy India Pale Ale, crisp, with only 96 calories impressive. And you can explore craft olive oil producers, like the Kiler Ridge and Pasolivo, to sample extra virgin olive oils and olive oil products.
When it comes to consumer interest in white wines, all white grapes take a back seat to chardonnay; but sauvignon blanc enjoys an increasingly strong second place. California Sauvignon Blanc is a good barometer, especially since there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.
The grape has a noble heritage as a parent (with cabernet franc) of cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. It also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.
Sauvignon Blanc is one of the world’s most widely planted grape varieties. It is responsible for famed French wines of Bordeaux and the Loire Valley and has found hospitable surroundings in Italy, New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.
Its flavor profile ranges from assertively aromatic and refreshing with brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus, especially grapefruit, and a distinctive herbaceousness (sometimes fresh cut hay or grass) to melon, tropical, nectarine, peach or stone fruits with anise or oak spice.
Most of the wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel to emphasize fresh, varietal characteristics, while some use small amounts of mostly neutral oak to round out flavors and texture.
In recent years, wineries have employed a wider variety of vessels, including concrete tanks, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae, for fermentation and aging, along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture.
There were two excellent everyday values from the Dry Creek Vineyard in my tasting. Both are focused on varietal character and the grape’s trademark racy acidity. The Sonoma County “Fumé” ($16) is aromatic, juicy with spicy herbs; the Dry Creek Valley ($20) emphasizes citrus, melon and licorice.
As consumer friendly as these wines are, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. Also, I was surprised when I reviewed my tasting notes that all but one of these is from Napa. They are listed in order of preference but all are recommended:
2017 Ashes and Diamonds Blanc No. 3 ($45) blend of equal parts semillon and sauvignon blanc; lush mouthfeel, bright structure, only 11.9% alcohol
2020 Spottswoode ($42) Sonoma and Napa fruit; intense citrus, herbal spice, textural richness, balanced with vibrant structure
2020 Gamble ($35) from an estate vineyard near Yountville, brisk, citrus, licorice, spice
During summer’s warm months, cold white wines provide welcome tonic. Add the refreshing bubbles of sparkling wine and you have the ideal summer drink.
Champagne is the standard for sparkling wine. This is primarily because of the “Champagne Method” (méthode champenoise) of double fermentation in the bottle to create the bubbles. But Champagne is expensive. Happily, there are more affordable Champagne method (also described as the “classic method” or “traditional method”) wines that offer comparable quality.
In France, there is crémant, bubbly from other regions. I particularly like Crémant d’Alsace. A region better known for amazing rieslings and gewurztraminers, its crémant more often uses the classic Champagne varieties – pinot noir and chardonnay – though pinot blanc, pinot gris and riesling may make it into some blends.
But it is in the north of Italy where you can find truly exceptional Champagne alternatives. Italy uses the term “metodo classico”. For a country with countless indigenous varieties, these wines typically made with only chardonnay (occasionally pinot bianco) and pinot nero (pinot noir). Here I offer examples of Franciacorta (in Lombardia south of Lake Iseo about 60 miles east of Milano) and Trentodoc (in Trentino north of Lake Garda and about 140 miles northeast of Milano). Another fine source, Alta Langa (from Piemonte), was not represented in this tasting.
Some would argue that Franciacorta is the best metodo classico. The zone benefits from warm days that ripen the fruit with cool nights that maintain freshness, thanks to the moderating influence of the lake. Mineral rich soils impart a zesty, forward character to the fruit resulting in a notable elegance.
Others would argue the best Italian bubbly is Trentodoc located in the adjacent Trentino-Alto Adige appellation to the northeast, also devoted exclusively to metodo classico and the same Champagne grapes. With its high altitude vineyards near the Dolomite mountains, its higher elevations, diurnal temperature variations, and limestone soils typically yield crisp, bracing yet graceful wines.
Prosecco, that foamy, fruity northeastern Italian wine from the native glera grape, has vaulted in popularity in recent years. Produced in the area north of Venice around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, it is the traditional base for the famous Bellini.
In Spain, sparkling wine is all about Cava, another go-to for wallet-friendly bubbles. It is typically produced by the traditional method with the indigenous grapes macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada in the Penedès region not far from Barcelona.
Crémant d’Alsace
Domaine Christophe Mittnacht “Terres d’étoiles” Extra Brut ($25) certified biodynamic, majority pinot auxerrois, with pinot blanc, riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir; elegant, intriguing saline and dry sherry notes
Camille Braun Brut ($28) organically and biodynamically farmed, mostly pinot blanc with auxerrois; salty pear and grapefruit
2015 Ca’ del Bosco Vintage Collection Dosage Zero ($80) bone-dry, impressively rich yet elegant and fresh, enticing baked bread, tangy yet creamy, ripe pear, apple and melon, mineral finish
Villa Crespia “Brolese” Extra Brut Rosé ($40) from the Brolese sub-area; toasty, crisp citrus and cherry, elegant
Lo Sparviere “Satèn” ($25) Satèn is a style of lower pressure leading to softer bubbles; 100 percent chardonnay, fresh yet smoothly silky
Zardetto Brut ($17) sourced from various vineyards northeast of the town of Conegliano; fruity citrus, apricot and tropical fruit accented with flowery notes
Cava
Segura Viudas’ Reserva Heredad ($30) the producer’s crown jewel (thus a little more expensive than most Cava), blended from macabeo and parellada, a fine example of what extra attention like aging on the lees – in this case, added richness, but with elegance – can accomplish
It’s official, Rosé (that is, dry Rosé) has become extremely popular with American consumers. Rosé has experienced an amazing growth in sales in recent years. And quality mostly has grown, too, even as variety has increased.
Still, as rosé’s success has led to a proliferation of pink wines on shop shelves, some now worry the result will be a decline in quality and slowing sales. Luckily, I didn’t see that in my tasting. I was impressed with the overall quality and consistency of the wines below. Note, all wines here are 2020 vintage, unless otherwise stated.
Rosé can be enjoyed as an apéritif or with the full range of foods. Because the flavor profile is similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines, rosé pairs with many foods and may be enjoyed year-round. Rosé goes really well with food because it combines some of the fruit and tannin of a red with the acidity and vibrancy of a white wine. It’s a perfect pairing for shellfish, spicy Asian cuisines, pasta or a big lunch-salad. Some vintners love it with a juicy burger.
Interestingly, most of the wines in my tasting were from pinot noir. California wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness. The best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon.
Inman “Endless Crush®” Russian River Valley ($38) certified sustainable, estate grown, Olivet Grange Vineyard, pretty red cherry and fresh cranberry, tangy, mineral
Pisoni “Lucy” Santa Lucia Highlands ($19) delicate, succulent mixed berries, supple, one dollar of each bottle sold is donated to breast cancer aid and research, fine value
Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” Santa Rita Hills ($35) estate grown from El Jabali Vineyard, structured, elegant and refreshing, tangy strawberry, peach, grapefruit
Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros grapes; specifically grown for rosé’s, strawberries raspberries, tangerine and pomegranate, brisk, modestly herbal
Argyle “Grower Series” Willamette Valley ($30) with chardonnay and small amount of pinot meunier from estate Knudsen and Lone Star vineyards, crisp, creamy watermelon, red berry, mineral notes
Diora “Le Belle Fête” Monterey ($20) San Bernabe estate, juicy red berries, spice
Raeburn RRV ($20) with zinfandel and grenache, brisk rasberry, citrus
Grapes originating in Southern France – notably Côtes de Provence (grenache) and Rhône Valley (grenache, cinsault, syrah, mourvedre) – also are popular. They tend to make a rosé a bit richer, offering more intensity with a touch of spice.
Alma Rosa Grenache Rosé ($30) sourced from El Jabali estate vineyard, brisk, cherry, strawberry, orange, peach, salty note
Bonny Doon “Vin Gris de Cigare” Central Coast ($15), grenache with cinsaut, clairette blanc, grenache blanc, mourvedre, and vermentino; brisk strawberry, nectarine, lightly creamy, touch of spice, fine value
Ram’s Gate Rosé Sonoma Coast ($38) grenache with pinot noir and syrah, tart red berries, citrus
Finally, there are rosés produced with Bordeaux varieties, and the Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($30) is a fine example. It is 100 percent merlot from the estate Attelas Vineyard and offers bright cherry and strawberry with a slightly herbal accent in a nicely firm frame.
While Chardonnay is still the most popular American wine and Sauvignon Blanc is a solid second, many wine consumers are showing more interest in a diversity of flavor profiles from other grapes. Generally, you should find the wines in this column are bright, food-friendly and meant to be enjoyed at any time but especially with food. A surprisingly winning array of wines, even though mostly unfamiliar grape varieties
Let’s begin with chenin blanc, which originates from the Loire Valley where it makes fascinating, complex, luscious (dry or sweet), yet underappreciated wines. It also has been increasingly successful in South Africa. In California, it used to be produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls now make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of Savennieres.
The 2019 Aperture ($30), sourced from a seventy-year-old, dry farmed Sonoma vineyard is barrel fermented, resulting in succulent apple, pear, peach and citrus fruit with an intriguing herbal note.
The 2019 Chappellet “Molly Chappellet” ($38), with grapes from the winery’s Pritchard Hill estate, rewards with a concentrated complex of lively apple, tropical and stone fruits, and mineral notes.
The 2020 Dry Creek Vineyard ($16), a fine value and a perennial favorite from Clarksburg in Lodi, is aromatic, with juicy apple, peach, pear and honey.
Next, pinot blanc, a mutation of pinot noir, is more common in Alsace than Burgundy. It also is found in Austria (weissburgunder) and Germany (weissburgunder) and Northern Italy (pinot bianco). It tends to offer peach, pear, lime, melon and apple and present with have good weight.
The 2019 Ram’s Gate Estate ($38) with sustainably grown Carneros grapes, is crisp, full-bodied, with green apple, pear and melon. A fine value, the organic 2020 Girasole Mendocino ($14) is lively, with luscious peach, citrus, and pear. It also is vegan.
Another mutation of pinot noir, pinot gris also is more prominent in Alsace than Burgundy. It produces good wines in Germany and Austria (where it is known as grauburgunder or ruländer), and, of course, Italy (where it is known as pinot grigio). It’s the leading white variety in Oregon (though chardonnay is gaining) and increasingly popular in California. Also, its name refers to the greyish color of its skin and generally is noted for stone fruit, melon, and citrus.
The 2019 Balletto ($20), with estate-grown Russian River Valley grapes, offers delicious lemon, orange and apricot with baking spice.
I find the grapes of southern France, especially intriguing. Take grenache blanc. A mutation of the red grenache grape, it is widely grown there, although it originated in Spain. It produces fuller bodied wines with intense citrus and melon.
The 2019 Priest Ranch “Schrader Ranch” ($22) with its juicy estate grown Napa Valley fruit also offering pear and stone fruit, with a steely quality.
One of the lesser-known southern France grapes, though common in the Languedoc, picpoul is being given some interesting treatments in California. The 2020 Bonny Doon Beeswax Vineyard ($15), from the Arroyo Seco region in Monterey, sports high acidity with citrus, pear, peach and herbal notes.
And Rhône Valley varieties – generally, various combinations of viognier, roussanne, marsanne and grenache blanc – flowery lend themselves particularly well to blends.
The 2019 Sosie “White Blend” Rossi Ranch ($35) combines organically grown roussanne, grenache blanc and marsanne with native yeast fermentation to yield appealing green apple, pear and lemon.
The 2020 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($16) is a unique and innovative blend, Clarksburg chenin blanc supplies crispness and honey; Lodi viognier contributes intense apricot, apple and viscosity. Viognier once upon a time was quite rare but is now the most-planted white Rhône variety in the United States. It produces wines with intense aromatics of peach, apricot, apple, and floral notes, as well as viscosity and lushness. This wine successfully combines these two disparate grapes into a very good value.
The 2020 Bonny Doon “Le Cigare Blanc” ($15) blends 60% grenache blanc, with 32% vermentino and 8% clairette blanche from Central Coast vineyards for delicate yet flavorful of melon, peach, orange, and peach.
Although it still has a reputation of being only a sweet wine, riesling – the iconic grape of Germany – regularly is fashioned into wines that delightfully balance residual sugar and bracing acidity. But more and more, dry or off-dry Riesling wine is taking its place at the table. The best wines are delightfully juicy, dramatic expressions of green apple, grapefruit or peach (and sometimes peach or apricot) with crispness, occasionally with steely, mineral components.
The 2017 Smith Madrone Riesling Napa Valley ($34), from a dry-farmed estate vineyard on Spring Mountain, is an exemplary example with fruity flavors and a lively palate, with a slight stoniness.
Finally, most dentified with northwest Spain and northern Portugal (where it is known as alvarinho), albariñocan make invigorating, floral and citrus-flecked wines. There also are some interesting, successful examples in California, notably in the Central Coast region. The sample in my tasting, an unoaked 2020 Mettler Albariño ($20) was vibrant, yet rounded, with succulent apricot, orange, apple and peach. Just delightful.
There is an incredible diversity of wine grape varieties grown in the Mediterranean countries offering a rich diversity of taste experiences. This column focuses on lesser known grapes in southern France, Spain and Portugal. Here are but a handful that deserve your attention.
RHÔNE VALLEY
While the Rhône Valley is best known for its amazing red wines, its white wines should not be overlooked. If you’ve been intrigued by American wines labeled Viognier or described as “Rhône-style”, check out the origins of these fascinating, even exotic wines.
Of particular note are the Côtes-du-Rhône Crus of the Northern Rhône. A Cru is a specifically delineated geographic area around a village whose wines are noted for high quality and distinctiveness.
Hermitage Blanc arguably is the most prestigious. The 2017 Barruol Lynch “La Pierrelle” ($99) is blended by importer Kermit Lynch in collaboration with Sarrual Barruol, a producer with an over 400 year history in the region. It is mostly marsanne with roussanne showing a complex of focused citrus, tropical and stone fruits with hazelnuts, an intriguing minerality and a honeyed, creamy palate.
And the tiny appellation of Condrieu is the ancestral home of viognier, which has grown in popularity around the world in recent years. But nowhere will you find an expression of the grape with such freshness and tautness in balance with the naturally luxurious texture. And the 100 percent viognier 2018 E. Guigal ($65) is a fine example, dramatically aromatic and flavored with citrus and stone fruit while notes of ginger, honey, and minerality add complexity to the rich texture.
Not as well-known as Hermitage or Condrieu, wines from nearby Saint-Péray, a white wine only appellation, can be nearly as impressive, particularly in the hands of a top producer such as Domaine A. Clape, a family with 250 years as growers in southern France. Also mostly marsanne with roussanne, this wine(2019, $78) is graceful and elegant, with pure citrus and stone fruit accented with spice and licorice.
In the Southern Rhône, the quality of the Lirac Côtes du Rhône Cru (an appellation in proximity to Châteauneuf-du-Pape) is reflected in the 2019 Domaine de la Mordorée “La Reine des Bois” ($36). From a producer known for organic and biodynamic farming, it is made up of equal parts grenache blanc, viognier, and roussane, it is attractively floral and fruity, suggesting citrus and stone fruit with stony notes and a creamy texture.
Also in the Southern Rhône, the village of Beaumes-de-Venise sources the 2016 Domaine de Durban “Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise” ($27). Produced only from muscat blanc à petits grains grapes, and fortified with neutral spirits like Port, it is designated “vin doux naturel” (naturally sweet wine). At 15% alcohol, it defines freshness and finesse with concentration.
While a simple Côtes-du-Rhône label indicates a good value entry level wine, Côtes-du-Rhône Villages means the wine comes from one of twenty-one specifically designated villages known for higher quality. And the 2018 Domaine Pélaquié “Laudun” ($17) is a named Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Cru made with viognier, grenache blanc, clairette, roussane, marsanne, and bourboulenc. From a certified sustainable, family-run estate (since the 16th century), it is a fine value showing ripe fruit, medium body and a rounded palate.
Spain and Portugal have long been reliable sources of fine value wines. With many indigenous grapes, the variety of tastes and styles only adds to their appeal. For proof, check out the white wines below.
PORTUGAL
Northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde (Green Wine) is notable for distinctively light, refreshing, low alcohol wines. Alvarinho is the predominant variety, though other native grapes are used. The wines below are fresh and fruity, brisk (sometimes even spritzy) (including arinto and loureiro) yet harmonious. Wonderful for casual drinking, versatile with food and generally best enjoyed young.
2019 Campelo ($10) a good introduction, crisp citrus, apple and orange with a tingle on the tongue and hint of sweetness
2020 Quinta da Lixa “Aromas das Castas” Grande Escolha ($10) even better with lively, tangy orange and apple with a touch of earth
2020 Esporão “Bico Amarelo” ($12) fine fresh, elegant apple, lime, honey and herb
2020 Quinta da Raza Grande Escolha ($17) another step up for its fresh, focused citrus, pear and minerals
2020 Esporao “Quinta do Ameal” ($17) excellent, from loureiro grapes with vibrant pear, mineral, and hints at richness
2017 Quinta do Louridal “Poema” Riserva ($18) a rare example of an aged Vinho Verde; displays some complexity with ripe pear and honey in a fairly full frame
Cockburn’s Porto Branco “Fine White Port” ($15) is fortified like red Port. At 19 percent alcohol, it offers hints of almond, lemon, pear, caramel, and vanilla. It is sweet, full-bodied with a creamy texture palate, and is delightful chilled as an aperitif or in cocktails.
SPAIN
Another fortified wine worth exploring is Spanish Sherry. Predominantly made from native palomino grapes and best drunk cold, Sherry comes in several styles.
The most food friendly is “fino,” the lightest, driest (as it is fermented and aged under protective layer of yeast – called “flor” – that forms on top of the wine) and lowest alcohol (usually 15 percent). A special kind of fino called “manzanilla” is made only around the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda where producers such as Emilio Lustau produce especially delicate, expressive wines from native palomino grapes such as Lustau’s “Papirusa” ($18) with citrus, almond, mineral and saline reminiscent of sea breeze.
At the other end of the spectrum, the Valdespino “El Candado” ($26) is a rare, sweet, rich dessert wine. With 100% Pedro Ximenez grapes aged for 10 to 12 years and 17 percent alcohol, its syrupy texture is nicely balanced with lively acidity and flavors of molasses, black walnut, raisins, dates and caramel. Drink as dessert or even better, over vanilla ice cream.
Williams & Humbert “Dos Cortados” Solera Especial 20 Anos Rare Old Dry ($50) is an even rarer style, a Palo Cortado that begins life as a fino but evolves more pungent, intense and complex aromas and a richer, more concentrated palate. At 21.5% alcohol, it displays nuts, dried fruits, citrus, ginger, caramel, with lively acidity, yet creamy finesse.
Beyond Sherry, Spanish white wines usually don’t get anywhere near the respect of Spanish red wines. But wines from albariño in the Rias Baixas area of Galicia and verdejo from the Castilla y Leon region in central Spain deserve consumer attention. While I didn’t have any such wines in my tastings, I did have one impressive wine from godello, a very rare grape now enjoying a revival of interest.
Though at a high price point, the 2018 Alvaredos-Hobbs Godello ($50) is emblematic. This is a new venture by Sonoma-based winemaker Paul Hobbs (who has similar partnerships around the world, this time with Antonio Lopez, a sixth-generation Spanish vintner) focused on production of native varieties planted in the Ribeira Sacra region in Galicia in northwestern Spain. From this rare but interesting grape, the wine is impressive and expressive of honeyed peach, citrus, and ginger, with floral notes, and hints of white pepper. It drinks with finesse and bright acidity.
Recently, Rosé has found wide acceptance with the American consumer. Wine industry publications report double-digit growth in the category and even triple digit growth in some price ranges. And what better time to join the parade than during the heat of summer?
I’m glad to see this popularity focused on dry (or off-dry) wines modeled after European styles, not the heavily marketed, sweet “blush” wines that have been popular for years. A variety of red grapes are used and the best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines. Anticipate a profile with a range of bright red and citrus fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon).
Because of their vibrant freshness and lively fruit, pink wines are almost always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available. Note, all wines here are 2020 vintage, unless otherwise stated.
Among Rosé devotees, France is a prime source and southern France even more so. Rosé from Côtes de Provence (made mostly from grenache) is especially popular. My recommended wines generally exhibited delicate, fresh red berries, crisp citrus fruits, juicy freshness, and a suggestion of creaminess.
Domaines Ott, whose vineyards overlook the Mediterranean, is a Rosé specialist with a 125-year history. Its Clos Mireille ($58) single vineyard wine is farmed specifically for Rosé and includes cinsault, syrah and the white grape rolle (AKA vermentino). It justifies its price with tangy fruit, citrus, mineral, saline, and solid, though elegant body. The winery’s By.OTT ($26) is a blend from estate and local vineyards showing delicate peach, melon, and light spice.
Photographie réalisée par un professionnel de l’image
Domaine Cala, owned by Los Angeles Chef Joachim Splichal, has produced a savory Coteaux Varois en Provence ($18) with tart red currant, peach, stone, and spice.
Spain gets into the act with an entry from the influential Torres family, with a viticultural history in Penedes (the most important wine growing region in Catalunya, near Barcelona). The Sangre de Toro ($15) is a mainly a blend of garnacha and cariñena, showing delicate, fresh raspberry and red currant. From Portugal, Herdade de São Miguel’s Colheita Seleccionada ($15) blends touriga nacional, aragonez, and syrah from the Alentejo region in southern Portugal, for a nice tart cherry-strawberry mix.
Most of the Rosés in my tasting were from Italy (where it typically is labeled Rosato).
From the Veneto, the Tenuta Sant’Antonio winery (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) also produces fresh, focused wines from local and international varieties under the Scaia label. The Scaia Rosato ($13), from the native rondinella, is lively and juicy, fresh and focused.
From the Marche, the 150 year-old Garofoli farms montepulciano specifically to make Kómaros ($14), a crisp Rosato with citrus, mineral and a hint of sweetness.
Masseria Li Veli in Puglia is notable for its work to restore historic properties, emphasize local varieties and practice sustainable farming. Its “Primerose” ($13), made from negroamaro, is brisk, with strawberry, raspberry, and spice, and a fine value. I especially enjoyed the fresh, juicy, creamy Susumaniello ($21). This is an ancient indigenous Puglian variety among several that has been resurrected through the “ASKOS” project.
From Sicily, Poggio Anima’s “Raphael” ($15) blends the ancient, rare zibibbo (AKA the aromatic grape muscat of Alexandria) with syrah from two vineyards overlooking the sea. It’s firm and herb-tinged with red berries and tangerine. From Planeta, a family that has farmed in Sicily for five centuries, the nero d’avola and syrah of its Rosé ($19) presents spicy red berries and citrus.
Let me close with a special outlier: Germany’s Villa Wolf Pinot Noir ($14) with its bright cherry, fresh raspberry, and mineral notes. This estate in the lesser-known Pfalz region dates to 1756 and now is managed by the Mosel’s esteemed Dr. Loosen.
