Category: Wine

If you are looking for a wine splurge for the holidays, consider these California Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Bordeaux-style Blends. The following wines are among the best wines I tasted this year. And whether you gift yourself or someone else, these wines showcase a pursuit of excellence regardless of price.

Cabernet Sauvignon

2019 Brandlin Estate ($90) fruit grown on Brandlin’s Mt. Veeder estate on a ridgeline high in the Mayacamas mountains; with petit verdot, cabernet franc and malbec; rich, full-bodied, firm texture; abundant dark berries, balanced with bay leaf, anise and graceful tannins 

2019 Spottswoode “Lyndenhurst” ($90) widely regarded as among Napa Valley’s elite, with the Estate Cabernet Sauvignon among the valley’s best each vintage; Lyndenhurst, the estate’s second wine, is nearly as good; with cabernet franc, petit verdot, merlot and malbec; succulent red and black fruits, earthy and tobacco notes, and refined, texture. 

2019 Sullivan Rutherford Estate “Coeur de Vigne” ($120) established in the 1970’s in a prime location in the Napa Valley, since 2018, new owners have elevated the winery’s already high reputation; with petit verdot, cabernet franc and merlot; concentrated cherry, cassis, with cedar and tobacco notes and a pleasantly dense texture 

2018 J. Lohr “Signature” ($100) tribute to founder Jerry Lohr’s pioneering efforts in Paso Robles; an expression of the high elevation Beck Vineyard in the Creston District of Paso Robles, represents the winery’s ultimate red wine; with a small addition of the rare Bordeaux variety Saint-Macaire and a dollop of malbec; dense dark fruits, toasty and chocolate notes, elegant tannins 

Merlot 

2019 Duckhorn Three Palms Vineyard ($115) once again this “grand cru” vineyard on the Napa Valley floor has produced a top-notch wine; succulent black cherry, currant, toast, herbs and spice, balanced with olive, tobacco, and oak; structured with richness and depth and polish

2019 Sullivan Rutherford Estate “J.O. Sullivan Founder’s Reserve” ($290) a tribute to James O’Neil Sullivan who founded the modern winery in 1972; with merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and petit verdot; tightly focused structure yields to concentrated dark currant and plum, dried herb, savory spice and cedar, with a silky palate 

Blends

Hamel Family Wines. From a leading organic and biodynamic producer, two Sonoma Valley special vineyard reserve wines ($160), each blends cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc: 2018 Nuns Canyon Vineyard – high elevation site, concentrated wild berry, black plum and licorice, savory accents, rich yet graceful, balanced with firm structure; 2018 Hamel Family Ranch – juicy dark berries, mineral and chocolate notes, hints of anise and a cedary element; full bodied, yet supple 

2019 Brandlin “Henry’s Keep” ($110) with malbec, petit verdot and cabernet franc; similar in many ways to the Cabernet above but more complex with slightly more oak and concentration, yet a silky finish 

2016 Sequoia Grove “Cambium” ($150) another winery established in the 1970s in the heart of Rutherford; blend of the winery’s best lots; with cabernet franc and petit verdot; bold red berries and cassis, with touches of fragrant, mocha, licorice, earth and oak, with a powerful structure 

2018 Chalk Hill “Estate Red” ($85) a selection of the best lots of grapes grown on the estate’s steep, hillside vineyards located in the appellation of the same name in Sonoma; cabernet sauvignon with malbec, petit verdot and carménère; rich with flamboyant black fruits, tobacco, baking spices, bay leaf, in a full-bodied frame and lush new oak, finishing with soft tannins

Drink them yourself. Share them with family and friends. Use them for a nightly meal or holiday gatherings. Give them as gifts. Or all of the above. These wines will save you money you can use for other holiday purchases (or more wine) and they still deliver fine drinking quality.

Best alternative to Napa and Sonoma:

Central Coast (Paso Robles, Monterey, Arroyo Seco)

J. Lohr ($13-17)

2021 Chardonnay Riverstone 

2021 Sauvignon Blanc Flume Crossing 

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Seven Oaks 

2020 Merlot Los Osos 

2021 Pinot Noir Falcon’s Perch 

2020 Syrah South Ridge 

2021 Vaildiguié Wildflower 

Ancient Peaks 

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Santa Margarita Ranch ($25)

Justin 

2021 Rosé ($20)

Second Best alternative to Napa and Sonoma: Lodi

7 Deadly ($16)

2018 7 Deadly Zins Old Vine 

2019 7 Deadly Cab 

Three Girls ($14)

2020 Sauvignon Blanc

2020 Chardonnay 

Mettler ($25)

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Grown 

2019 Zinfandel Epicenter Old Vine 

Sonoma strikes back: 

Balletto ($25)

2021 Rose of Pinot Noir 

2021 Teresa’s Unoaked Chardonnay

Quivira 

2021 Sauvignon Blanc ($19)

2021 Wine Creek Ranch Rosé ($25) 

Estate quality wines at négociant prices:

de Négoce (Cameron Hughes partners with high end producers to sell direct-to-consumer, $18-29)

2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla 

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 

2020 Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 

2020 Pinot Noir Petaluma Gap

For organic and sustainable wine seekers (and everyone else): 

Girasole (Mendocino, $18)

2020 Charlie’s Blend Red Wine

2021 Pinot Noir

Tribute (California, $20)

2021 Cabernet Sauvignon 

2020 Sauvignon Blanc

Vento di Mare (Italy, $12)

2020 Pinot Grigio

2020 Grillo

2021 Nero d’Avola

2021 Pinot Noir

France

2021 Domaine les Capreoles “Cossinelle” Beaujolais Villages Rosé ($19)

2021 Jean-Paul Brun “La Rose d’ Folie” Beaujolais Rosé ($18)

For the hunter (and everyone else):

Decoy (California, whites $20/reds $25)

2020 Cabernet Sauvignon

2020 Merlot

2020 Pinot Noir 

2019 Red Wine

2019 Zinfandel

2021 Chardonnay

2021 Sauvignon Blanc

2021 Rosé

For pro football fans who prefer wine to beer:

Charles Woodson’s Intercept ($20)

2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

2020 Chardonnay Monterey

Blends: when the sum is greater than its parts 

Conundrum (California, $25)

2021 White

2020 Red

Pinot Grigio from the source: Northern Italy

2020 Banfi Centine Toscana ($13)

2021 Banfi San Angelo Toscana ($20)

2020 Kris delle Venezie ($12)

More light, refreshing European whites:

Spain (Rias Baixas)

2020 Ethereo ($20)

2020 Deusa Nai ($19)

Portugal (Vinho Verde, Bodegas Esporao) 

2021 Bico Amarelo ($12)

2021 Ameal Loureiro ($18)

French varieties from the source:

Mouton Cadet ($15)

2020 Blanc (mostly sauvignon blanc)

2020 Rosé (mostly merlot)

Fat Bastard ($14)

2020 Chardonnay 

2020 Pinot Noir 

For a taste of wine from one of its oldest origins: Georgia

Teliani “Saperavi” Red ($15) 

While I enjoy Colorado wines all year, I especially appreciate them during the holidays.  And that includes California wines with a Colorado connection. 

What’s more of an auspicious Colorado connection than John Elway? His 7Cellars winery was founded in 2015, along with Napa Valley’s One Hope winery and Napa winemaker Rob Mondavi, Jr. 

Elway’s Reserve wines (Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon) are, not surprisingly, ideal steakhouse wines. But I suggest introducing yourself to the winery with The Farm Collection. The line of three varietal wines ($20) – Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Pinot Noir – celebrates Elway’s college days (“The Farm’ is the nickname for Stanford University) and is intended to be more approachable (in price and drinkability). 

“We are continually trying to improve our wine by sourcing the highest quality grapes from the finest wine regions in order to bring my home state of Colorado a wine they can be proud to call their own, said John Elway.” The Chardonnay is sourced from Arroyo Seco, the Pinot Noir from Monterey, and the Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles. 

For each bottle purchased, 7Cellars makes a donation to Team Rubicon, a nonprofit organization that supports, trains and deploys U.S. veterans on disaster relief missions around the world. 

“My desire to contribute to Team Rubicon stems from my personal adulation for the people who are serving, and have served, in the armed forces. They are the true heroes of our country and deserve our utmost respect. Giving back to Team Rubicon through our sales of 7Cellars is just one way that we can show our gratitude.”

The wines are available in local shops and online at www.7cellars.com. 

For something different, I am excited to introduce atōst – a brand of creative, wine-based apéritifs founded by Cindy and Kyle Pressman and crafted in Golden. After they became fascinated with European aperitifs and aperitivos, they decided to develop American versions. From sourcing to mentorship, local partners have been critical to atōst.From local ingredients to Chad Yakobson, founder and brewer of Crooked Stave Brewery in Denver, who has partnered with the Pressmans to build the production facility and assist with the fermentation and blending process. 

The process begins with a California Chardonnay base. Colorado honey is added for a light sweetness. Then, fresh, (often locally sourced) fruits, botanicals and herbs are macerated in distilled Sonoma grape spirits to create the flavors and colors of atōst. The two are blended to create the four aperitivo styles. Kyle adds, “It’s a hands-on, delicate process which ultimately produces an extremely fresh and aromatic apéritif.”

• Citrus: California lemons and oranges, Colorado juniper and peach; light and fresh
• Bloom: strawberry, candied orange, rose; succulent with rich texture 
• Woods: whiskey-barrel-aged, vanilla, cherry, orange; aromatic, coconut, savory
• Roots: ginger, lemon, anise; combine for an intense, spicy cocktail 

They also are less sweet & less bitter than most traditional aperitifs and cocktails, while being lower in alcohol (21%) than common distilled spirits. Expect the freshness and elegance of a glass of white wine and the boldness and complexity of a spirit-based cocktail. They are available in four distinct essences.

Cindy Pressman shared, “While the apéritif category is largely unknown in America, the qualities of our light & fresh spirits align with so many modern-day trends including the desire for lower proof options and farm-to-bottle ingredients.”

“Everything we created was centered around the mission to pour it over ice and enjoy without the need to mix a complicated cocktail,” Kyle explained, although he adds that Atōst can be taken with a splash of sparkling water or incorporated into mixed drinks.

The aperitif’s are available for purchase at their website (www.atost.co), which also has cocktail recipes.  Each 750 ml bottle is $35, with free shipping on 2 bottles or more and $50 for a sampler pack of all four.  If you are in the metro area, stop by their tasting room in Golden.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy 7Cellars.

It’s always a good idea to support local businesses. And “buy local” has become a popular outcry in recent years. While it is most common in arts and crafts and especially in food, it also is relevant for beer, wine and spirits. And especially with the economic challenges caused by the pandemic and world events, it is even more important to support these small businesses. Since this is a wine column and I am based in Colorado, I am suggesting Colorado wine for the holidays this year. 

In case you haven’t noticed, the quality of Colorado wine has increased dramatically in recent years. Colorado has a burgeoning wine industry (over 170 businesses across the state) that is growing in national recognition. “Colorado wine is a fine choice for holiday meals,” said Doug Caskey, executive director of the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board (CWIDB). 

Dug Caskey added, “After a quiet couple of years, one thing that has not slowed down is the growing quality of Colorado wines and our recognition as one of the top unique wine regions in the country. The Colorado wine industry is a hotbed of innovation and creativity, thanks to our dedicated grape growers and hard-working winemakers.” The Colorado wine industry also is driven to evolve to align with Colorado’s unpredictable weather. 

These achievements were amply on display in the recently announced 2022 Governor’s Collection, which was hosted by the CWIDB. A tasting panel selected of 19 highly respected wine professionals sat in judgment of 279 Colorado wines submitted from 38 wineries.

This year’s Governor’s Cup Collection features some returning albeit lesser-known varieties such as teroldogo and chambourcin, mixed with familiar favorites like syrah and tempranillo, and sprinkled with creative styles including sparkling and mead.

And, of course, think Colorado when looking for a holiday wine gift. Many wine shops in And, of course, think Colorado when looking for a holiday wine gift. Many wine shops in the state carry Colorado wine and many of the wineries have holiday gift offerings, whether individual bottles or special packages. 

A good place to start your search is at https://coloradowine.com//.  Many local wine shops also carry Colorado wine and many of the wineries have holiday offerings on their websites. 

The 12 winning Colorado wines that will comprise the 2022 Colorado Governor’s Cup Wine Collection are:

• Aspen Peak Cellars (Bailey) – 2021 Pinot Gris, American 
• Carboy Winery (Littleton) – 2019 Petit Verdot, Grand Valley AVA
• Carboy Winery (Littleton) – 2020 Teroldego, Grand Valley AVA
• Carboy Winery (Littleton) – 2019 Blanc LaLaLa (Sparkling Gruner Veltliner), Grand Valley AVA
• Carlson Vineyards (Palisade) – 2021 Sweet Baby White Blend, American 
• Mesa Park Vineyards (Palisade) – 2020 Equilibre Red Blend, Grand Valley AVA
• The Peachfork (Palisade) – 2021 Chambourcin, Grand Valley AVA
• Red Fox Cellars (Palisade) – Non-Vintage Nebbiolo, Grand Valley AVA
• Slaymaker Cellars (Idaho Springs) – Traditional Wildflower Mead
• The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey (Canon City) – 2019 Syrah, Colorado 
• Vino Salida Wine Cellars (Poncha Springs) – 2017 Tempranillo, Grand Valley AVA
• Whitewater Hill Vineyards (Grand Junction) – 2021 Dry Rose of St. Vincent, Grand Valley AVA

And the seven-year-old Carboy Winery won Best in Show on, for its 2020 Teroldego.

“The considerable growth in the past few years [locations in Denver, Littleton, Breckenrige and Palisade in five years] has been both challenging and rewarding. It is humbling to have three wines selected for the 2022 Governor’s Cup. The driving force behind the partnership between our production and vineyard management teams is to create wines that are balanced and approachable. Having had more than one wine selected this year is certainly a validation of that effort. The uptick in quality that has been achieved as of late by the Colorado winegrowing community is a remarkable achievement. It is an honor to be a part of this community. I am confident that we’ll be seeing a maintained output of premium wines by Colorado producers, as we collectively improve upon vineyard practices and production techniques. I am excited for what’s in store for future vintages.”

Another ideal choice, given its proximity in Cañon City, is The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey  about two hours south of Denver. The Abbey Winery has many options worth perusing, including the Syrah that is part of the Governor’s Cup Collection. In its more than 20 years of production, has won countless awards for its wines.

Their website is an especially good place to start. Check out the online shop for individual bottles and case and shipping discounts on most wines. Join the unique “Congregation” wine club or give a membership as a gift. The website also has numerous, inviting non-wine artistic and gourmet items available. 

Even better, take the drive down to visit their amazing gift shop. Sample some wine and food in the tasting room, then take some wine and other goodies home. It would make a fun holiday day trip. And the wine won’t disappoint. Head Winemaker Jeff Stultz is proud of the award-winning wines. “I’m also excited about our newer line of wines called As Above So Below”, he said. “They are accessibly priced at $16 and feature creative blends and a fun label”.

NOTE: Featured image courtesy Colorado Wine Industry Development Board.

While Argentina’s wine production is quite varied, Malbec has in recent years emerged as its signature grape and established a position among the U.S.’s most popular wines. 

A minor blending grape in Bordeaux, though important in the southwestern France region of Cahors, it experiences some sort of alchemy in the vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina’s most important wine region. 

The dramatic landscape of this high-altitude desert region at the foot of the Andes Mountains births many fine red wines, especially Malbec. Argentina’s malbec producers have settled into a comfort zone of affordable, easy-drinking reds that increasingly are crowd pleasers. Typically, you get up-front, round fruit and lush textures. As a bonus, many are made with organically grown grapes. Mendoza is the driest wine region in the world, which makes organic growing more amenable.

It helps that the wines are accessible and eminently drinkable. These wines hit the quality/value sweet spot. I will feature selection from each winery.

Domaine Bousquet, one the largest Argentinean wineries, stands out for its commitment to organically grown grapes throughout its portfolio. Its wines are made with minimal reliance on oak, enabling the fruit to shine through and are vegan. 

• 2018 Gran Malbec ($25) loam, mineral, forest, touch of spice and savory notes
• 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) half malbec with syrah and cabernet sauvignon 
• 2018 “Gaia” Cabernet Franc ($20) herbal, toasty, spicy, also a cab

Coen, growers for many years, is now collaborating with highly regarded Italian winemaker, Atilio Pagli to produce wines from sustainable or organically grown grapes. Its “Classic” tier ($25) forms the foundation of production. If you are interested in getting a taste of the heights Argentinean Malbec can reach, my tasting included the 2019 Reserve Malbec ($45), a special production and much fuller bodied style with certified organic grapes, blue fruit, floral, baking-spice and anise notes.

Trapiche, one of Argentina’s largest and oldest (140 years) producers, offers a variety of tiers to showcase the abundance of Mendaoza. The “Broquel” tier is crafted with fruit from a variety of estate vineyards. The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon “Selected Barrels” ($15) is soft, fresh, and friendly. The “Medalla” tier (around $20) was created for Trapiche’s 100^th year and features 100% single variety wines from Mendoza’s prime growing areas. The “Gran Medalla” tier was developed for the 125th anniversary and uses select grapes from Trapiche’s finest vineyards. The 2019 Gran Medalla Malbec ($30) shows juicy, ripe berries, currant and herbs with fine tannins. 

Trivento, another large production winery, Trivento is owned by Chilean colossus Concha y Toro. Its 2020 Malbec Reserve ($12) provides easy drinking, straightforward berry, plum, with a slightly assertive finish.

Orfila, founded by Spanish immigrants in 1905, the Orfila family merged with the Argentina of Italy’s Gancia family in 2010. It is a smaller production winery but also emphasizes sustainable and organically farmed vineyards. 

• 2019 Malbec Estate Selection ($15) 
• 2020 Malbec Classic ($13) 
• 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Selection ($15) 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy Domaine Bousquest.

While Chianti is the best-known Tuscan wine in the U.S., a little attention reveals a wide variety of other fine wines from Italy’s best-known wine region. In central Tuscany where the Chianti geographic region extends roughly from just north of Florence south to Siena, there are other highly regarded denominations north of Florence and south of Siena. And then there is the “new frontier” of the Maremma in the western part of the region along the Tyrrhenian Sea coast. Let’s visit a few.

Most Tuscan wines, though, still use sangiovese as their foundation (usually at least 70%). One of Italy’s many indigenous grape varieties, sangiovese truly shines in Tuscany. Typically, its wines exhibit deep, bright cherry and other red fruit aromas and flavors with firm, dry structure, and earthy qualities. Complexity is revealed in forest notes, baking spice and hints of anise. It often is blended with other native varieties, though increasingly Bordeaux grapes are part of the mix.

Considering the quality available, the wines are exceptional values. Those labeled simply Chianti are good everyday wines. The Chianti region has seven production zones, of which Chianti Classico (the original Chianti production zone south of Florence) is generally considered to produce the best wines. Wines labeled Riserva usually are selections of the producer’s finest fruit and receive extended time maturing in barrel and bottle before release aging. Gran Selezione is the highest classification requiring 90% sangiovese, estate fruit, and even longer aging. 

2016 San Felice “Poggio Rosso” Gran Selezione ($70) juicy, toasty, oaky

2016 Tenuta Perano Riserva ($35) vibrant, intense, spicy

2017 Tenuta di Arceno “Strada al Sasso” Gran Selezione ($55) rich, savory, vanilla

Chianti Rufina, which lies east of Florence, generally is considered to be the best zone after Chianti Classico. Its higher elevation vineyards typically produce brighter toned fruit. The wines below are 100% sangiovese.

2016 Selvapiana “Vigneto Bucerchiale” ($36), exuberant, woodsy, licorice, elegant

2016 Selvapiana “Erchi” ($50) bright, foresty, graceful, licorice

Carmignano, west of Florence, is unique in that its wines must include at least 50% sangiovese and 10-20% cabernet sauvignon or cabernet franc plus other local grapes. 

2017 Villa di Capezzana ($30) 80% sangiovese/20% cabernet sauvignon, powerful, intense, tannic

Montepulciano, southeast of Siena, is classic Tuscan hill town whose environs produce fine sangiovese (here known as prugnolo gentile, at least 70%). Home to Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, its name reflects its popularity with royalty over the centuries. Though not as well-known as Chianti, it is equally worth your attention.  Generally, Vino Nobile presents refreshing, vibrant fruit with somewhat gentler tannins.

2018 Poliziano ($30) bright, earthy, polished 

Among wine intenditori (Italian for connoisseurs), Brunello di Montalcino is even more prized than Chianti Classico. They also are more expensive, with some bottles costing several hundred dollars. Named for wines made 100% from the local sangiovese clone (sangiovese grosso, historically referred to as brunello) grown around the village of Montalcino, Montepulciano’s neighbor to the west. These are some of the most concentrated, muscular, long-lived expressions of sangiovese. Typically 100% sangiovese, Brunello almost mandates several years of development before drinking. 

2016 Castelgiocondo ($71) spice, tobacco, dense 

2016 Campogiovanni ($65) intense but accessible

A small, little-known zone in the Tuscan Maremma region, Montecucco extends from the western border of Montalcino. The area is a leader in sustainable viticulture. Most grapes (predominantly sangiovese) are certified organic. 

2016 Poggio Stenti “Pian di Staffa” Riserva ($52) 100% sangiovese, dense, dusty, lush, pleasantly dry

One of the most notable new Maremma denominations is Morellino di Scansano at the south end of the area. The wines must be from vineyards around the village of Scansano and at least 85% sangiovese (known as morellino locally) 15% ciliegiolo (common in central Italy). 

2019 Lohsa ($16) ripe, herbaceous, lush 

For a region that is grounded in so much history and tradition, Tuscany also has become a center of innovation over the last several decades. Enter the “Super Tuscans” (not an official designation). It was in Chianti in the 1970s where new wines emerged as a reaction to what some considered too rigid traditional regulations for making Chianti wine and the declining quality of much Chianti at the time. These wines, now designated Toscana IGT, are mostly defined by the use of nonindigenous grapes, particularly cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah. Many of these wines are expensive and considered among the best wines Italy has to offer. 

2019 Lucente ($30) second wine of Luce, the flagship of the Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi/Robert Mondavi partnership, and is produced from the same vineyards in Montalcino. A 50% sangiovese/50% merlot blend, it is a nicely integrated, juicy, sleek, with tobacco and round finish. 

Toscana IGT has become increasingly associated with Maremma, especially the Bolgheri zone along the western coast where single variety wines and French/Italian blends, are more common, and more modern winemaking techniques.

2017 San Felice “Bell’ Aja” Bolgheri Superiore ($60) merlot/cabernet sauvignon, concentrated, oaky, sleek

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Tenuta Luce

ROSÉ IS A FAVORITE SUMMER SIPPER AROUND THE WORLD Dry Rosé has become enormously popular with American consumers. But many only think of it as a summer sipper. With growing production, generally high quality and a wide variety of grapes and styles from around the world, it is time to drink pink wine year-round.  

Typically, these wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines. Anticipate a profile with a range of bright red and citrus fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon). Rosé goes really well with food because it combines some of the fruit and tannin of a red with the acidity and vibrancy of a white wine.

But it can be difficult to decide among the many options. In this column, you will find an introduction to three of the finest sources: France, Italy and California. All wines are 2021 vintage, unless otherwise stated.

Arguably, the most the most sought after French Rosé is Côtes de Provence. Côtes de Provence, especially the area along the Côte d’Azur with dramatic views of the Mediterranean, has a long history with rosé as a prominent drink. The wines are mostly grenache (often with cinsault, syrah or mourvèdre). The following are emblematic of the “Provençal style” of light color, delicate citrusy, apricot/peach flavors with a creamy suggestion.

Domaines Ott 2020 Château de Selle ($55) a benchmark Rosé, this was the best of my tastings; justifies its price with fine fruit (cinsault, grenache syrah and Mourvèdre), supplemented with mineral, saline, and a solid, yet elegant body 

Château des Sarrins. Les Sarrins ($25) a collaboration of Bruno Paillard (prestigious Champagne producer) and the Terlato family (leading wine import company); grenache, cinsault, rolle (vermentino) and mourvèdre; hints of citrus, strawberry and raspberry with an earthy finish 

Rose Gold. ($20) from Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Saint-Tropez (a female owned and operated winery) ripe berry, hint of lemon, nicely layered blend of six varieties.

A large contingent in my tasting was from Italy (where it typically is labeled Rosato). Here are recommendations that span the length of the peninsula.

Veneto. Scaia ($15) from Tenuta Sant’Antonio (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) rondinella, lively and juicy, fresh and focused 

Marche. Garofoli “Kómaros” ($14) 150-year-old Garofoli farms montepulciano specifically to make Kómaros ($14), crisp with citrus, mineral, juicy

Abruzzo. montepulciano d’Abruzzo; dark, intense, structured

Abruzzo. La Valentina “Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo” ($14) underappreciated region in south-central Italy distinguished with an official Rosato designation of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, made almost exclusively from the local montepulciano grape; darker color, more intensity, and is more structure. 

Puglia. Masseria Li Veli “Torresrose” ($15) negroamaro; brisk, strawberry, raspberry, spice; “Susumaniello” ($23) a real winner from the ancient indigenous susumaniello variety; fresh, juicy, creamy 

Sicily. 2020 Travaglianti “Etna” ($30) nerello mascalese; nice impact, fresh peach, cherry

California wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. At least, most of the wines in my tasting were from pinot noir. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness. The best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. 

These were some of the favorites of my tasting. Note how each sources its grapes from top pinot noir growing regions. 

Pisoni “Lucy” Santa Lucia Highlands ($19) delicate, succulent mixed berries, supple,

Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” Sta. Rita Hills ($35) estate grown, elegant cherry, tangy orange, brisk strawberry, peach

Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros vineyards, brisk, strawberry, tangerine 

Fiddlehead 2019 “Pink Fiddle” St. Rita Hills ($30) Fiddlestix Vineyard, brisk, tangy, strawberry

Lynmar Russian River Valley ($33) soft, raspberry, spice

Argyle Willamette Valley ($30) chardonnay and small amount of pinot meunier, crisp, creamy watermelon, red berry, mineral notes 

MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($28) elegant, juicy, strawberry, supple

Bouchaine Carneros Estate Selection “Vin Gris” ($29) bright, strawberry, apricot

Acrobat Oregon ($15) juicy cherry, slightly herbal

Grapes originating in Southern France – notably Côtes de Provence (grenache) and Rhône Valley (grenache, cinsault, syrah, mourvedre) – also are popular. They tend to make a rosé a bit richer, offering more intensity with a touch of spice. 

Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Grenache Rosé ($30) sourced from El Jabali estate vineyard, brisk, cherry, strawberry, orange, peach, salty note 

Ram’s Gate Rosé Sonoma Coast ($38) grenache with pinot noir and syrah, tart red berries, citrus 

Anaba Sonoma County Rosé of Grenache ($34) fresh strawberry, tangerine

Finally, there are rosés produced with Bordeaux, Italian and Spanish varieties. 

Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($35) blend of tempranillo and merlot from the estate Attelas Vineyard, offers bright cherry and strawberry with a slightly herbal accent in a nicely firm frame

Gamble Napa Valley ($26) cabernet sauvignon with some cabernet franc, merlot and petite verdot; tart raspberry, crenberry

de Negoce 2020 Lot 183 Alexander Valley ($13) sangiovese; direct-to-consumer from winemaker Cameron Hughes; creamy, spicy, cherry

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of dreamstime.com.

Considering white wines from around the world, those from Spain and Portugal arguably are among the least known by consumers. And among the white wines of Spain and Portugal, Spain’s Rueda (verdejo grape) gets less attention than Rías Baixas (albariño grape) and Portugal’s Alentejo (multiple native grapes) gets less attention than Vinho Verde (multiple grapes). Let’s rectify that situation. 

Rueda, located 100 miles northwest of Madrid, is mostly flatlands verdejo has been farmed here for 1000+ years. Over the past two decades the grape has finally come unto its own with dramatic improvements in quality. It’s gravelly soils, cold winters, short springs, and very hot and dry summers are the ideal habitat for the grape.

Rueda Verdejo wines often are described as having characteristics similar to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris wines. Most show crisp, elegant citrus or tropical fruit often with herbal notes and broadness on the palate. Some accentuate delicate, bright fruit, while others richness and near-savory nuttiness. 

Alentejo is a large, sparsely populated region in the south of Portugal about 90 minutes from Lisbon.  A hot, dry region, it generally produces white wines with fine aromatics brisk acidity and fresh citrus and tropical fruit accented with subtle minerality. It is a major producer of wine corks and houses UNESCO World Heritage sites. Vineyards have been present there for over 3,000 years and the region has a history of stewardship of an amazing array of native grapes. It also has distinguished itself for its proactive sustainability efforts to address climate change. 

In contrast to Rueda, Alentejo whites are blends of indigenous grapes like antão vaz, Alentejo’s star white grape, which provides aromatics and body; arinto, which adds exuberant acidity, green apple, lemon, lime and mineral notes; roupeiro, for its seductive notes of orange and lemon, hints of peach and melon; fernão pires, which brings aromatics and spice; verdelho, which contributes fresh and fruity character and can develop richness and alvarhino, which originates from the Azores and delivers fresh fruity character that can develop texture.

RECOMMENDED WINES

Rueda Verdejo

2020 Bodegas Vatan “Nisia Las Suertes” ($30) dry farmed, ungrafted vines, some vines as old 125 years fermented in old puncheons and demi-muids, aged on the lees nine months; creamy, full body, elegant, demonstrates the heights this grape can achieve

2021 Cuatro Rayas “Caballito del Mar” ($14) 87-year-old growers cooperative, smooth, fresh, fruity

2021 Protos “Ser Primero” ($14) 95-year-old winery, rich, tropical, apple, fennel 

Alentejo

2021 Torre de Palma Arinto & Alvarinho ($40) on a property that dates to 1338 and now houses an elite hotel; tight, crisp, citrus, spicy hints

2018 Adega de Portalegre “Conventual” Reserva ($25) 67-year-old cooperative, from vineyards in a national park; aged in oak, fragrant lime, lemongrass, succulent

2021 Herdade do Esporão “Colheita Branco” ($18) while the property dates to the thirteenth century, the winery was established in 1973; its vineyards are certified organic; bracing, spicy, juicy

2020 Rocim “Mariana” ($16) organic grapes, good body, brisk, apple, herb, melon

2020 Adega de Redondo “Porta da Ravessa” Special Edition ($15) 65-year-old cooperative, lemon-lime, spicy herb, melon

2021 Marques de Borba “Colheita Branco” ($13) nice presence, juicy citrus/tropical fruit

NOTE: Featured image of verdejo grapes is courtesy of KYSELA PERE ET FILS, LTD.

Chilean Sauvignon Blancs are enjoying a fresh wave interest in the U.S. Chile’s Sauvignon Blancs. Chile’s second most planted grape variety next to Cabernet Sauvignon is well on the way to establishing an equally formidable reputation. Sauvignon Blanc’s modern-day story in Chile begins in the early 1980s when a handful of producers began to explore the promise of coastal regions, with the finest identified with the country’s coastal and cool-climate regions–notably the Valparaíso region, Leyda Valley, Casablanca, Santo Domingo, and San Antonio regions. 

These are not standard supermarket Sauvignon Blancs. They are notable for an herbal, citrussy character; striking acidity; stony taste; and a fuller mouthfeel. This coastal style is a more herbal and citrusy expression than other regions. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus (grapefruit) and occasionally stone fruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. 

• 2020 Viña Garcés Silva “Amayana” ($25) estate bottled, Leyda Valley, San Antonio
• 2019 Ventisquero “Grey” ($25) [Glacier] Single Block, Valle de Atacama, Longomilla Vineyard
• 2020 Matetic Vineyards “EQ” ($20) Casablanca, Vinedo Valle Hermosa, estate bottled, organic grapes
• 2020 Casas del Bosque “La Cantera” ($18) Botanic Series, Valle de Casablanca, estate bottled 
• 2020 Viña Morandé “Gran Reserva” ($20) Casablanca Valley, single vineyard, fermented in oak 
• 2021 Montes “Limited Selection” ($15) Valle de Leyda
• 2021 Viña Tabalí “Talinay” ($24) Valle de Limari
• 2021 Viña Koyle “Costa La Flor” ($18) Organic grapes, vegan, San Antonio

For some reason, it seems California Sauvignon Blanc has often been an afterthought with consumers. Not only does it consistently play second fiddle in popularity to Chardonnay, it seems there is always a new fave that steals consumer’s attention – Pinot Grigio, even New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – even if only for a limited time. 

But that may be changing. Growers and winemakers are taking the grape more seriously and quality has improved even as more offerings are available. And people who watch these kinds of things say consumer interest is ticking up. This is good news as there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.

And California also is offering more good Sauvignon Blanc values. These tend to be ebullient and spry with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. Think of them as everyday go-tos.

• 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard “Fumé” Sonoma County ($16) aromatic, juicy, grassy 
• 2021 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22), mouthwatering, assertive, structured
• 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($20) succulent, creamy, spicy 
• 2021 J. Lohr “Flume Crossing” Arroyo Seco ($14) lively, forward, herbal 
• 2021 Markham Napa Valley ($20) fresh, juicy, tangy
• 2021 Girard Napa Valley ($20) juicy, forward, supple 
• 2021 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($22) fresh, ripe, herbal 
• 2021 Justin Central Coast ($14) light, brisk 

As consumer friendly as these wines are, For a few extra dollars, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. 

• 2021 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($28) with semillon and sauvignon vert, fruity, rich, complex, structured, seamless
• 2021 Clockwise Russian River Valley ($30) half sauvignon musque, from MacRostie Winery, tangy, firm, creamy, plush
• 2021 Acumen “Mountainside” ($30) sourced from hillside vineyards, concentrated, rich, sleek, piercing, succulent 
• 2021 Duckhorn North Coast ($32) with Semillon, crisp, grassy, sharp
• 2021 Ladera Napa Valley ($36) with sauvignon musque, tangy/sweet, mouthwatering, focused

Some wines are crafted with the use of different fermenting and aging vessels –concrete tanks, oak, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae – along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture. These wines share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, and sophisticated, rich textures. And they are cellar worthy. Notably, each winery below is from the Napa Valley.

• 2020 Quintessa “Illumination” ($50) significant portions of sauvignon musqué and some sémillon, vibrant, elegant, mouthwatering, seamless
• 2020 Cuvaison “Méthode Béton” ($40) Estate Grown Carneros, the “method” is aging on the lees in concrete eggs (bétons), intense, minerally, lush, juicy, structured 
• 2019 Acumen “PEAK” ($75) from high altitude Attelas Vineyard on Atlas Peak vineyards, brisk, concentrated, stimulating, fennel, mineral

NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

ALSO NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Wines of Chile.

Cocktail fans know that the popular Bellini, invented at Harry’s Bar in Venice, is made with Prosecco and peach puree. Wine drinkers know that Prosecco is a satisfyingly fresh, graceful sparkling wine that is one of the best values around.

Prosecco also is the name of the production zone in the hills of the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Guilia regions of northeastern Italy north of Venice. 

Made mostly from the native glera grape (though a small amount of other grapes are allowed), it is produced using the Charmat Method (sometimes described as the Italiano or Marinotti method, with the bubbles coming from the second fermentation in large, pressurized stainless steel tanks (referred to as autoclaves), instead of in the bottle as with Champagne). 

Its fresh, delicate fruit of pear, apple, citrus, and peach fruit complimented with white flowers and a frothy palate make for an easy drinking and modestly priced wine with moderate alcohol versatile for many occasions. 

Prosecco is produced in different quality levels, usually connected to progressively smaller production areas. Look for bottles labeled “Prosecco DOC” (designation of controlled origin) for a basic guarantee of quality. 

But, for the highest quality, look for “Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG’ (“G” for guaranteed). This indicates that the grapes came from a much smaller area around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene and the wine met stricter quality standards. This historic area of Prosecco production with unique hillside terroir was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019. 

The wines in my recent tasting (2020 vintage) all were in this classification. And even more exclusive, all bear the additional designation “Rive” to indicate small, hand-tended vineyards grown on special steeply sloped hills. These are named after the individual hills where the grapes originate. There are 15 communes that can make 43 Rive subzone wines.  

• Andreola “Col del Forno” Rive di Refrontolo Brut ($25) floral, brisk, elegant 
• Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato Superiore di Cartizze Brut ($30) most prestigious subzone, floral, creamy 
• Graziano Merotto “Cuvée del Fondatore” Rive di Col San Martino Brut ($40) fresh, structured, mineral 
• La Farra Rive de Farra di Soligo Extra Dry ($25) floral, bright, soft 
• Val d’Oca Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Brut ($35) taut, persistent 
• Sanfeletto “San Piero” Rive di San Pietro Feletto Brut ($22) lush, mineral
• Valdo “Cuvée 1926” Extra Dry ($24) nonvintage; fresh, ripe, delicate 

And just in time to get in on the recent popularity of Rosé, Prosecco Rosé DOC was introduced in 2020. It is produced with at least 85% glera blended with up to 15% pinot nero. Expect a flavor profile that combines white fruits with mixed berries. 

A fine place to start is the 2020 Zardetto Extra Dry ($17), offering delicate fruitiness, refreshing acidity and a lively palate. The nonvintage Brilla! ($15) shows freshness, lightness and tangy fruitiness. 

Finally, Valdo’s “Floral” Spumante Brut Rosé ($16), a blend of 75% nerello mascalese, red Sicilian grape, and 25% glera, is not Prosecco, since it doesn’t follow the DOC rules. But it is a delightfully unique combination of intensely fruity mixed berries, delicate bubbles and a round finish. 

NOTE: View of vineyard in Prosecco region courtesy of Valdo winery.