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CHARDONNAYS FRESH ENOUGH FOR SUMMER HEAT

(Featured image courtesy of Sequoia Grove Vineyard.)

 

Chardonnay has something like a 30 year record as America’s favorite white wine. Its deserved reputation for greatness undoubtedly is at least partly responsible for that popularity. Another likely reason consumers have been so drawn to the wine is it can be made in different styles to appeal to different tastes and occasions.

 

Many wineries attempt to emulate the richness and depth of Burgundy, the benchmark for the grape. Thankfully, at least as many produce lighter, fresher, fruitier versions that can easily keep fans drinking their favorite wine throughout the heat of the summer.

 

These Chardonnays typically offer the grape’s ripe fruit flavors – usually citrus, apple, pear, or tropical, and sometimes melon or fig – but in a more easy drinking style and less of the spicy or toasty oak, honey, butter, cream, vanilla, butterscotch or hazelnut.

 

The key to the most successful examples is balancing use of oak barrels and secondary malolactic fermentation to compliment ripe fruit with good acidity. Judicious use of oak means less oak period but also less new oakand less time in barrel. Most are whole cluster pressed to preserve the freshness of the juice. Many only partially undergo the malolactic that softens and rounds out the juice.

 

I have tasted over three dozen Chardonnays in the last few months and have selected the following seventeen worth your attention.

Some, like the 2012 Four Vines “Naked” ($12), actually eschew oak altogether fermenting the juice in stainless steel tanks and aging the wine in bottle. Its bright, a bit sweet citrusy Santa Barbara County fruit shines through without inhibition. Only ten percent of the Sonoma County fruit that comprises the 2012 Decoy ($20) spent time in barrel, complimenting its slightly sweet citrus, pear and spice notes. The just fifteen percent of barrel time seen by the 2012 Pedroncelli “Signature Collection” ($14) disappears behind its lively lemon/lime and tropical Dry Creek Valley fruit.

 

 

The following wines successfully use just slightly more barrel treatment. The 2013 CrossBarn (by Paul Hobbs) Sonoma Coast ($25) – with its hazelnut and butter notes, racy citrus, apple and pineapple – is a real treat. At everyday prices, the 2011 Souverain North Coast ($13) – with just enough oak to balance the sweet fruit cocktail flavors –delivers refreshing drinking. The 2012 Murphy Goode California ($14) is juicy, viscous and like tasting lemon cream pie. The 2012 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($17) quite aromatic, with fresh citrus orange, a juicy crisp finish, and an intriguing touch of licorice.

 

The 2012 Sequoia Grove Napa Valley ($28) takes a different approach. While the wine is barrel aged and fermented, more than two-thirds of those barrels are neutral oak. And significantly, the wine did not go through the secondary malolactic fermentation that would have softened its crisp citrus, apple and pear flavors.

 

And the 2012 Artesa Carneros ($20) strikes a middle ground with half stainless steel, half oak and half malolactic yielding a fresh and juicy wine, featuring lively tropical and orange fruits broadened by lightly creamy notes. With a similar approach, the 2012 Wente “Morning Fog” Livermore Valley ($15) achieves a pleasantly fruit forward style.

 

 

As much as I came to prefer the lighter touch in my tastings, I also found several wines that underwent full malolactic fermentation and were treated with significant oak during both fermentation and aging (though spare on the new oak) but deftly walk the line between richness and freshness, making them fine choices for current drinking. Despite the abbreviated notes, they all are very good wines.

 

  • 2011 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($26) succulent
  • 2012 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve”($22) dramatic fruit impact
  • 2011 J. Lohr “Highlands Bench” Santa Lucia Highlands ($25) focused, deep fruit
  • 2012 Byron Santa Barbara County ($17) spicy lemon cream
  • 2012 La Crema Sonoma Coast ($23) ripe white peach
  • 2012 Alta Maria Santa Maria Valley ($28) brisk but full fruited
  • 2012 Wente “Riva Ranch” Arroya Seco ($22) mixed citrus/tropical fruits

 

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FRESH ROSÉS AND LIGHT REDS FOR SUMMER SIPPING

Think Pink for Summer!

 

DRY pink wines seem to be gaining appreciation in this country. Of course, sweet “blush” wines have been popular for years. Europeans, on the other hand, have known for a long time the joy of drinking a good pink wine. The most common term is Rosé (French) but you may also see Rosato (Italian) and Rosado (Spanish).

 

I’m talking about wines that are dry or occasionally only slightly sweet. Expect bright, fresh fruit aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, raspberry, or cranberry. Some even exhibit a red-like level of intensity, body and complexity. But the best always display fresh fruit aromas and flavors that approximate the profile of their red siblings but drink more like white wines. Because of their freshness and lively fruit, pinks are always best drunk young, so look for the most recent vintages available.

 

There are essentially three ways to make a pink wine. The most common method is to crush red grapes and leave the juice in contact with the grape skins (the source of a wine’s color) only briefly. The second technique is a process called “saignée” in which a certain amount of juice is “bled off” shortly after red grapes are crushed. The third approach involves blending white and red wines to the desired effect.

 

Among devotees, France is the prime source. There is a dizzying array of French Rosés from all over the country but most notably the south – places like Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Bandol, Cotes-du-Rhone, and Tavel. But just about every other wine producing country also has gotten into the act.

For instance, I came across a nice 2013 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley Signature Collection “Dry Rosé of Zinfandel” ($12). This 87 year-old winery has produced a flavorful rose at a fair price. From Spain, the 2013 Cune Rioja Rosado ($14), made from the dominant local red grape, tempranillo, was fresh and flavorful with tasty strawberry and raspberry notes.

 

And from Esporão, Portugal’s leading family winery since 1267, I have two recommended Rosados. The 2013 “Alandra” at $7 won’t break the bank and shows amazing depth of fruit (dark berries and cherries) for this price. It is a blend of indigenous arogonez and touriga nacional with syrah. The 2013 “Vinha da Defesa” ($15), which blends arogonez and syrah, offers fresh, fruity aromas and a touch of wild strawberries on the palate.

Finally, from South Africa the 2013 Mulderbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé ($12) not surprisingly is made from 100% cabernet sauvignon. It is a bit bigger than your typical rosé, yet is still refreshing with cherry and currant fruit.

 

Light Reds Have Their Place, Too

 

Like most folks, I drink a lot less red wine during warm weather months. But there are lighter reds that can be plenty satisfying this time of year. And don’t be afraid to chill them down a bit.

 

German Pinot Noir. You might think Germany is an unlikely place to look for what we call Pinot Noir and they call Spatburgunder. But try the four wines below and that attitude may change. While Riesling is justifiably the great wine import of Germany, the estates below (located in the Baden region) are considered among the best producers of German Pinot Noir. While a bit pricey and hard to find, these are light and fresh but flavorful and worthy of your attention.

                                                       

  • 2011 Franz Keller “Franz Anton” Schwartzer Adler ($42): bright red cherry, slightly earthy and smoky; bright fruit in the forefront with soft tannin
  • 2011Franz Keller Schwartzer Adler ($25): more complex with dark cherry, brown spices, oak, earth and mushroom notes but drinks with crisp red cherry
  • 2010 Bernhard Huber Malterdinger ($38): deep, sweet berry fruit is up front; earthy note joins a very fresh palate and a nicely bitter touch in the finish
  • 2010 Salwey Trocken ($22): plump dark red fruits blend with bitter herbs and earthy flourishes all drinking juicy and fresh

 

My recent tastings have revealed a handful of other good choices.

 

2010 CUNE Rioja Crianza ($14). This young wine comes from one of Spain’s older wineries (founded in 1879). Dominated by tempranillo with small amounts of local grapes mazuelo and garnacha, fermentation in stainless steel with just one year of oak aging, yields fresh, bright red berries with some earth and elegant, yet lively balance.

 

2012 Pedroncelli Sangiovese Alto Vineyards ($16). This nearly 90 year old winery was a pioneer of grape growing in Sonoma County’s Dry Creek Valley and is still family owned. Harkening to their Italian heritage this Tuscan-style wine offer dark cherry, forest, herb and light spice in a welcoming and easy drinking frame.

2010 Mulderbosch “Faithful Hound” ($18). This Bordeaux-style blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, petit verdot, cabernet franc, and malbec is soft but complex with forest and tobacco notes but also generous fruit assisted by stainless steel fermentation and barrel maturation. 

2011 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast ($13). Souverain consistently produces some of California’s mostreliable wine values and this Cab (buttressed with dollops of four other grapes) is no exception. Fresh red fruits meld with cocoa for a juicy, satisfying drink.

 

 

2012 Caricature Cabernet Sauvignon ($17). Caricature is a fun label of lighthearted wines produced by LangeTwins Family Winery in the Lodi region east of the Bay Area. The area is known for producing flavorful grapes at low prices. Bright red cherry and red currant join cedar notes in a light and tangy drink.

 


2012 Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon ($12). This is a label produced by the Indelicato Family, who has an over 80-year history of winegrowing in California. Committed to sustainable winegrowing in their Monterey and Lodi vineyards, they have produced a wine with fairly deep berry fruit that is soft but fresh and tangy with sweet fruit.

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” Summation ($17). Kendall-Jackson has grown over the last three decades into one of California’s largest wine producers but quality hasn’t suffered. The Vintner’s Reserve line still regularly offer good value. Summation is the red blend and this one is one-third syrah and one-third zinfandel, with dollops of at least five other grapes. Expect really nice black fruits with a whiff of smoke and a hint of wood wrapped in a smooth texture.

 

2011 Caricature Red Blend ($17). This blend is mostly cabernet sauvignon and zinfandel, which contributes vibrant cherry, prune and currant fruit while some oak aging imparts caramel notes. It all glides light and tangy over the palate, finishing refreshingly slightly bitter.

 

These red wines are delightfully crisp, fruity, and fragrant. And they are easy drinking and natural matches for the lighter foods of summer, as well as grilled and barbecued. For generally reasonable prices, these wines also provide a refreshing combination of acidity and in many cases moderate alcohol – perfect for warm weather. Enjoy!

 

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FRESH, FRAGRANT WHITES ARE PERFECT FOR WARM WEATHER

What I like most about spring and summer is the blossoming of aromas and how that signals the awakening of life after the slumber of winter.  And a cool, light, crisp, refreshing white wine is just the compliment for the warmer weather. Below are a variety of recommendations from my tastings over the past several months.

 

German Riesling. My favorite white wine any time of year is German Riesling. These wines typically are enticingly aromatic with bracing acidity and typically green apple, citrus and stone fruit flavors. Most intriguing, there often is a distinctive mineral component. It produces aromatic wines of high acid and, unusual for a white wine, potentially long life. The fragrant, flowery aromas lead into fresh green apple, pear and occasionally peach, apricot, pineapple, or mineral flavors are delivered with bracing acidity. The wines below provide some blanced sweetness.

  • 2012 Bischofliche “Ayler Kupp” Kabinett ($23) – a single vineyard wine from the Mosel is fresh, fruitful and satisfying, with just a hint of sweetness.
  • 2012 Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium “Graacher Himmelreich” Kabinett ($23) – similar to the Ayler but more pronounced apple.
  • 2012 Schloss Vollrads Spatlese ($31) – from a storied estate in the Rheingau, this one is sweeter but delightfully fresh with minerality.
  • 2012 “Fritz Willi” (by Friedrich Wilhelm Gymnasium, $12) – a good entry-level wine is another successful effort by a venerable winery to produce a wine labeled in a more consumer friendly manner. It is made from grapses sourced from the Graacher Himmelreich, Graacher Domprobst, Bernkasteler Badstube, Trittenheimer Apotheke and Falkensteiner Hofberg vineyards in the Mosel and Saar valleys.

 

Chenin Blanc. Native to the Loire Valley, Chenin Blanc also is a personal favorite and has found a few hospitable locales in California. There, it is usually produced in a fruity, slightly sweet style, though a few brave souls (like Dry Creek Vineyard) make a dry style inspired by the fine wines of the Loire Valley Savennieres. The 2013 Dry Creek Vineyard ($12) made with grapes from Clarksburg near Sacramento, is always a reliable choice. This stainless steel fermented wine is quite fragrant with peach, melon, apple and citrus.

South Africa also is quickly becoming a reliable source of good Chenin Blanc, as the 2011 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc “Steen op Hout” ($14) demonstrates. Although this wine saw some time in barrel, it is fresh, fruity, and bright, with deep apple, pear and cashew in nose and zesty acidity and tropical fruit mouth.

 

California Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. There may be no better summer wine than a crisp, refreshing Pinot Gris. Just in time for the warmer weather. Pinot Gris, the so-called “grey pinot,” also can be a fine choice this time of year. It reaches its epitome in Alsace and can be quite fine in Oregon but I found the 2013 MacMurray Estate Vineyards Russian River Valley Pinot Gris ($20), the first bottling under the winery’s new label, to have enticingly rich flavors of pear, baked apple, dried fig and white peach. It is fermented in stainless steel and one-quarter is aged on the lees.

Pinot Grigio, usually suggesting a lighter Italian style, is the best known type among Americans. At half the price, the 2013 Belle Ambiance California Pinot Grigio ($10) is typical of the style, as it tends to fresh citrus and melon carried in a brisk, yet easygoing frame.

 

Spain. Native grapes from Spain’s northwest region of Rías Baixas and the northern region of Rioja, which is better known for its red wines, make for light hearted, zesty summer sippers. The 2013 Cune “Monopole” Rioja ($15) is produced using local viura, the major white grape of the region, which, like its namesake macbeo in Penedes, is noted for its aromatics and acidity.

 

From Rías Baixas, the 2013 Terras Gauda “O Rosal” ($24) is a blend dominated by albariño (the most important white grape of that region), with additions of loureiro and caiño blanco (which had almost disappeared from the region but was recovered by Terras Gauda in the 1990s). all from the O Rosal Valley, this blend produces a wine with crisp and lively fresh citrus, orange and peach deepened with an earthy touch.

 

Italy. While Italy is justly famous for its red wines, there also is a plethora of interesting white wines. Much of that interest, as with Spain, comes from the indigenous grapes. Someday I need to write a whole article on Italy’s whites but for now here are a few nice ones from Italy’s northeast.

 

From the northeastern province Friuli near Venice, the 2012 Masi Masianco ($15) is a unique, enticing blend of mostly pinot grigio and some indigenous verduzzo produced using the traditional winemaking method of drying the grapes before fermentation (known as appassimento) to increase concentration and intensity. crisp citrus, honey Lemon, peach, dried apricot, honey, touch of spice, honey and cantaloupe melon

 

Prosecco, with its light, frothy flavors has achieved significant popularity in recent years. It comes from an unlikely area in the Veneto, in the hills just north of Venice and is made using the native glera grape. Affordable and eminently drinkable (typically lower alcohol), it is a versatile for many occasions. I recently enjoyed the Prosecco from La Marca ($17) from a 40-year-old cooperative representing 5,000 local winegrowers who farm more than 17,000 acres. Its clean, refreshing style and delicate, apple fruit are quite appealing. Another good option, the Piccini Prosecco ($16) also was very nice, with a profile of white flowers, white peaches, and pears.

 

Speaking of Italian bubbly, you may not be aware the “Metodo Classico” (the Champagne Method) bubbly made in the Franciacorta region in the foothills of the Alps not far from Lake Garda is some of the best sparkling wine in the world. Franciacorta also uses the traditional Champagne grapes pinot noir and chardonnay. The Berlucchi family gets credit for initiating the practice in the 1970’s. Their 2006 Berlucchi Franciacorta ‘61 Brut ($35) – 100% chardonnay and bottle aged five years – is crisp, elegant and refined. The ’61 refers to 1961 as the year the brand was founded.  With apple and pear fragrances and velvety texture, this wine displays lovely depth and a zesty acidity.

 

 

 

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SUMMER SEASONALS PROVIDE REFRESHMENT FOR THE HEAT OF SUMMER

Featured Image: “Summer wildflowers in the Rocky Mountains” courtesy of  Adirondack Explorer.

 

Every year as summer draws near, America’s craft brewers roll out their summer seasonals. The MO is to produce beers with light body, low alcohol and refreshing flavors. Often such beers emphasize lightness too much for my taste – too often they are also light on flavor. Usually, when I’m looking for something more delicate, I’ll pass on the “summer beer” and go for maybe a Pale Ale or an IPA. But the beers below are different. Yes, they are lighter and more refreshing but they also give ample flavor – and the term “summer seasonal” a more respectable name.

 

Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale. This summer seasonal from Deschutes is ideal for the warm weather. Inthe style of a Pale Ale it is fairly strong with hoppy bitterness (provided by whole cone Amarillo, Northern Brewer, Cascade, and Tettnang hops) and a refreshing citrus, slightly spicy aroma. This is nicely complimented by Cara-Pils and Carastan malts, which add roundness, softening the hoppy edges. The aroma offers fresh wheaty, malty notes, which are reprised in a firm palate and a crisp, slightly hoppy finish. Overall, it shows nicely balanced malt and hop qualities, with 35 IBUs. Not too heavy, not too light, its 5% ABV is just right for warm weather sipping.

 

Samuel Adams Porch Rocker. This is a good example of a seasonal brew specifically concocted in this case for the summer heat and outdoor activities. Lemon is added to the Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and Hallertau Mittelfrueh Noble hops and it sure shows through. As the company notes, this is a take on a Bavarian Radler, which typically combines lager and lemonade. It’s lightness is emphasized by its low 4.5% ABV and 8 IBUs.

 

Samuel Adams Summer Ale. This one is a different take on the summer seasonal. It is an American wheat ale refreshed with Hallertau Mittelfrueh and Saaz Noble hops that, along with the addition of lemon peel, presents a bright citrus note. But this time the citrus is balanced with malty notes from Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and malted wheat and a suggestion of pepper from the addition of Grains of Paradise. It all makes for a pleasant sipper for a pleasant summer day. 5.3% ABV and IBUs 7 

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IT’S A COGNAC! IT’S A SHERRY! IT’S A PORT! NO, IT’S A BEER!

A review of the latest (2013) Samuel Adams Utopias

The new 2013 release of Samuel Adams Utopias is the latest in a nearly thirty year journey of founder Jim Koch to redefine what beer can be. As with so much in the craft beer industry, Samuel Adams has been a pioneer of what has come
to be known as “Extreme Beer.”

Beginning with Triple Bock in 1994, Samuel Adams has been in the forefront of the movement to push the envelope of complexity and alcohol. Triple Bock came in at 17.5% alcohol by volume (ABV). In 2000, Samuel Adams released Millennium Ale at 21% ABV. Then came Utopias in 2002 at 25% ABV. Since then, a new edition of Utopias has been released roughly every two years. The 2013 edition clocks in at 28% ABV. That’s liqueur territory!

 

Certainly the craft beer world has continued to challenge convention about styles and variations on styles of beer. That includes ingredients, brewing methods and alcohol levels. But Sam Adams’ Utopias really challenges all conceptions of what beer can be.

 

It’s still brewed with hops and malts using traditional methods. Utopias begins with two-row Caramel and Munich malts and Hallertau Mittelfrueh, Spalt Spalter, and Tettnang Tettnanger hops. Several yeast strains (including one used for Champagne) are used in fermentation. And maple syrup is added. But that is where normalcy ends.

 

Added to the mix for the first time is the brewery’s wild ale, “Kosmic Mother Funk” (KMF), a Belgian-style wild ale barrel-aged nine months-to-two years in large Hungarian oak casks. A lot of craft beers these days are aged in wood barrels but Utopias takes this, yes, to extremes. It undergoes a blending process similar to wine, in this case combining batches aged in a variety barrels, including Port casks and Rum barrels from Nicaragua. The final blend includes some batches that have been aged up to twenty years in a variety of barrels. And this year a portion was aged in single use bourbon casks from Buffalo Trace Distillery.

 

So, how does all this taste? First, newcomers to the brew will be surprised to find it is not carbonated. Also unusual for beer, Samuel Adams recommends Utopias be sipped and savored at room temperature (basically the same as Cognac: about a two-ounce pour in a snifter).

 

It opens with aromas of caramel and maple followed by an explicitly briny sensation, like sea breeze. There are alcoholic notes reminiscent of Cognac accented with toffee. You might also notice vanilla and tobacco. It drinks smooth and viscous with layers of complexity. There also are tangy and berry fruit elements keeping the taste lively amidst the sweetness and a distinct alcoholic burn.

 

Naturally, Utopias is packaged in unique 24-ounce ceramic bottles fashioned to look like a traditional copper brew kettle. It is sealed with a basic crown cap but also a resealable screw cap. That combined with the high alcohol and lack of carbonation allow Utopias to be enjoyed over long period.

 

Here’s the one catch, though: that 24-ounce bottle retails at $200. This will prove an obstacle most will not be able to overcome. Heck, most of us would be unwilling to spend that much even on a great wine or Scotch. But, if you have the money or can get together with some friends on a bottle or even find it somewhere by the glass, it will be an experience I doubt you’ll regret.

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CRISP, REFRESHING SAUVIGNON BLANC WELCOMES WARMER WEATHER

As the weather warms and animals and plants come out of their hibernation, so too do many humans – at least metaphorically. It is natural to begin thinking about picnics, grilling and sitting out on the patio sipping a refreshing white wine.

 

Sauvignon Blanc is an ideal, if often underappreciated choice for such moments. The grape is one of the parents (with cabernet franc) of the great red grape cabernet sauvignon. It is responsible for the Loire Valley wines of Sancerre and Pouilly Fume and, with semillon, the white Bordeaux of Graves and Sauternes. The grape also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Chile.

 

In this column, I focus on California, where winemakers are doing a better job these days of matching clones and vineyard sites, and balancing the use of oak and stainless steel in fermentation and aging to emphasize the grape’s zesty green and citrus fruits and distinctive herbaceousness. These traits enable Sauvignon Blanc to pair nicely with the lighter foods of spring and summer.

 

Everyday Patio Sippers

 

As with other wines, there are Sauvignon Blancs that are lighter, varietally correct, and recommended for their straightforward pleasure.

2012 Souverain North Coast ($13). Tangy citrus and tropical fruit accented with grassy, herbal notes and firm acidity given extra texture with a touch of oak and lees aging.

 

2013 Decoy Sonoma County ($20). Pungent herbal notes precede sweet green fruits and a firm style that finishes with a touch of bitterness.

 

2012 Sticky Beak Russian River Valley ($17). Nice grassy and grapefruit entry complimented with a touch of richness from a judicious use of oak fermentation.

 

2013 Pedroncelli Dry Creek Valley East Side Vineyards ($13). Fermented 100% in stainless steel, juicy lemon, lime and orange drink softly, with fresh herb notes and a touch of hay.

 

2012 Lange Twins Lodi Musque Clone ($13). Brisk gooseberry, citrus and tropical fruits join woodsy herbs.

 

Best with Food

 

Sauvignon Blanc can be fun and a serious drink. These wines show more character and complexity that are best enjoyed as accompaniments to food.

2012 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley “Fume Blanc” ($30). Always a favorite from this storied producer, this opens with enticing citrus and tropical fruit that balance assertive herbaceous qualities. It enters with bracing acidity (though shows a certain richness) giving a mouthwatering, juicy impact that makes for enjoyable drinking now while suggesting it can satisfy for a few years.

 

2012 Alta Maria Vineyards Santa Barbara County ($18). Fresh herbs with lively grapefruit, lemon and orange citrus qualities, are buttressed with juicy acidity.

 

2012 Clos du Val Napa Valley ($24). This all stainless steel wine offers bright acidity and very ripe lemon citrus and peach, with green herb notes, finishing brisk but surprisingly round and viscous.

 

Matanzas Creek’s Exploration of Sauvignon Blanc

 

With the release of its 2012 portfolio, Matanzas Creek looks to cement a place as one of planet’s top Sauvignon Blanc producers. These wines all share a winemaking approach that apportions fermentation and aging in stainless steel and neutral, large oak barrels.

 

2012 Sonoma County ($21). Quite fragrant and flavorful, its range of grapefruit and other citrus, hints of melon, fig and spicy herb are delivered with a delightful texture and bracingly fresh throughout. A touch of semillon adds complexity.

2012 Bennett Valley ($32). Wonderfully expressive with a broad range of citrus, melon and tropical fruits, plus melon and lemongrass, this is intense and bracing, balancing spot on herbaceousness with earth notes, and lingering invitingly. It will drink well for several years.

2012 Helena Bench Knight’s Valley ($40). This one is really strong on the herbal, green and spicy qualities of the grape. You are likely to find an assortment of citrus and tropical fruits but also mineral, stone and smoke, all wrapped in a tangy, yet rich finish.

 

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CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON: VALUES ARE HARD TO FIND BUT THEY ARE THERE

 

 

Over the last several months, I have tasted 46 California Cabs from a wide range of prices. While California produces thousands of Cabs, this sample has lead me to conclude it’s getting harder to find good values in California Cabernet. Still, they are there and I have included 16 in this report. Recommended wines are listed in order of preference in each category.

 

Everyday Drinking

 

I know some of you will be asking, “what about wines under $10?” Well, everyone I tasted in the past year just didn’t make the cut. It is disappointing that solid quality is getting harder to find for less than $20 a bottle. I did find one admirable option in the 2012 William Hill North Coast ($14). It’s a really good value with solid structure and tasty fruit.

 

After that, we quickly are over $20 a bottle. But at least I found some gems for you.

 

2011 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley ($28). This is one of the best values in this report and is a perennial value. Its extravagant black fruits and toasty oak make for a complex wine finishing with refined tannins.

 

2012 Decoy Sonoma County ($25). Lots of dark fruits wrapped in caramel oak. A bit hard and tannic at first but opens up nicely. Will evolve for a few years.

 

2011 Silver Palm North Coast ($22). Quite forceful blackberry, pine and woodsy notes but a lighter, smooth texture

 

2011 Rodney Strong Sonoma County ($20). Nice black fruits and a light earthy note, soft and amiable.

 

Sweet Spot of Quality/Value

 

These wines are definitely a step up, sure in price but importantly also in quality. Yes, we’re now over $30 and even $40 a bottle. But if you are willing to spend more money, these wines will deliver your money’s worth. Further, the wineries listed in this section are ones I have found to be extremely reliable in recent years.

 

2010 Stonestreet “Monument Ridge” ($45). Bursting with beautiful berry fruits accented with touches of spicy herbs, graphite and mocha and a complex fruit/oak/tannin profile. Gorgeous now, it might be even better in five years.

 

2010 Frank Family Napa Valley ($50). Inviting black and red currants, with creamy oak and licorice, a solid structure and layered texture make this all around delicious. Noticeable tannins suggest 5-10 years of further development.

 

2011 Atalon Napa Valley ($35). Opens with intriguing earthy, minty and herbal notes that mix with generous red and black fruits. It is fairly full with a juicy palate finishing on a pleasantly bitter note.

 

2011 Kendall-Jackson “Grand Reserve” ($30). Strong, woodsy-minty-smoky aromas precede rich, blackberry and boysenberry fruit. This continues on the palate gliding along finishing with powdering tannins.

 

2009 Arrowood Sonoma County ($30). Bright cherry, tealeaf and pine scents introduce vibrant red berries, a soft palate, and a finish of fresh tannins.

 

2010 J. Lohr Hilltop ($35). Opens noticeably gravelly and moderately plummy. It’s soft and smooth with succulent fruit and a round finish. Made in an appealing, easy-drinking style.

 

Splurges

 

2009 Duckhorn Howell Mountain ($80). Duckhorn is known for making big, tough, tannic Cabs and this one doesn’t stray too far. Yet, it also reveals an elegance that allows abundant black cherry and currant fruit to emerge along with cocoa and cedar notes. It is inviting now but will drink well for at least ten years.

 

2010 Grgich Hills Napa Valley ($60). Shows a vibrant beam of lively acidity as its core, as is this winery’s style. Around that is built a frame of concentrated cassis and cherry, with hints of earth and dried herbs.  This certified organic and biodynamic wine should please for at least ten years.

 

2008 Dry Creek Endeavour ($65). Big, ripe, with rich oak, deep berry fruit and rich chocolate flavors offset with a loamy note, this one will be at its best in a few years and should have a long future.

 

2010 Duckhorn Napa Valley ($70). Very structured and firm suggesting patience is needed to fully enjoy its already beckoning currant and blackberry fruit, cedar and spice bouquet and lush texture.

 

2010 Cakebread Napa Valley ($60). Enticingly juicy and nicely concentrated red and black fruits are balanced with oak, dried herb and earth notes and finished with fine tannins. This is another one enjoyable now but a candidate for long aging.

 

 

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SPRING RELEASES TO WELCOME WARMER WEATHER

[Cover photo courtesy Oregon State University Extension Service]

 

Yes, it is finally getting warmer and breweries are happily releasing their spring seasonals. And we all are the better for it. Here a few I tasted recently you will enjoy alone or as an accompaniment for the lighter foods of the season.

 

Deschutes

Fresh Squeezed IPA. I really liked the debut release of this beer last summer and really enjoyed this year’s model as well.  So I’m glad it now will be available year-round in 6-packs. Like all of the beers in the Bond Street Series, this hop-centric brew was formerly exclusive to the brewery’s Bend and Portland Oregon brew pubs. Its juicy, spicy citrus aroma and flavor – thanks to loads of Citra, Mosaic and Nugget hops – presage a balancing malt profile from Pale, Crystal, and Munich malts. Its 6.4% ABV and 60 IBU drink smooth and refreshing.

 

Samuel Adams

 

Double Bock. A seasonal since 1988 – but a style that dates to the 13th century – this one is lager brewed with a half pound of malt per bottle. Tettnang, Tettnanger, and Hallertau Mittelfrueh hops join the Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend and Caramel 60 malts to produce, yes, sweet caramel and toffee, but also coffee and even cherry notes, finishing with subtle hop character. 9.5% ABV and 25 IBUs

 

Escape Route. A new, limited release beer, Kölsch style (sort of an ale/lager hybrid originating in Cologne, Germany) is a delightful unfiltered, easy drinking (or what is typically called “sessionable”) beer with just 5.0% ABV and 30 IBUs. It uses Aramis and Strisselspalt hops, with Samuel Adams two-row pale malt blend, acidulated malt, flaked barley, and carafoam malts.

 

Oskar Blues

 

Gubna Imperial IPA. Volume 4 of this seasonal release is post-fermentation dry hopped with Sorachi Ace, Chinook and Mosaic hops to a level that Oscar Blues only describes as 100+ IBUs! The hops are augmented with Rye malt (double the amount of previous versions), North American Pale malt and a bit of Munich malt. All this really shows in its intensity of strong grapefruit piercing all the way through followed by spice notes. Lemon citrus and even hints of red berries add interest on the palate, as does the lively bitter finish.

 

 

Upslope Brewing (Flatiron Park Tap Room)

 

Upslope Brewing Company brewed its first batch of Pale Ale for public consumption in the fall of 2008. Since then, this creative brewery has established itself firmly in its home base of Boulder and throughout Colorado winning numerous medals and palates to its well made beers. I stopped by their Flatiron Park Tap Room the other day to do a little tasting and heartily recommend the following beers.

Wild Belgian Pale Ale. A collaboration with Crooked Stave Artisan Beer Project in Denver, this is the first installment of their new Ferus Fluxus (or “Wild Flow”) series. For this barrel-aged project, this limited release Belgian style pale ale – brewed with Trappist ale yeast and coriander – was inoculated with strains of Brettanomyces and Lactobacillus in first-use red wine barrels where it conditioned for nine months. 7.5%ABV and 30 IBU

 

Oatmeal Stout. This sessionable stout won a Bronze Medal at last year’s GABF Pro-Am Competition. It is easy drinking with a silky smooth mouth feel. The oatmeal rounds out the bolder chocolate, roasted malt and coffee flavors in this brew. 5% ABV

 

Sticke Altbier. A traditional German ale that has its roots in lager brewing.  Malty without being sweet, earthy mushroom note and a slight tangy finish. This is a good example of the style. 7.0% ABV

 

Craft Lager. Upslope’s largest selling beer also is distinguished by the commitment to donate one

percent of revenues from its sales to Trout Unlimited for its Rivers Campaign to protect watersheds throughout Colorado. It soffers light malt and citrus flavors that surprisingly linger. 4.8% 15 IBU

 

Brown Ale. Another GABF winner (silver medal in 2012), this classic brown ale is loaded with coffee and roasted qualities in nose and mouth but drinks firm and finishes with a nice bitter note. 6.7% 45 IBU

 

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WINERIES WHO CELEBRATE EARTH DAY EVERY DAY

[Featured Image Courtesy of Benziger]

WINERIES WHO CELEBRATE EARTH DAY EVERY DAY

With the approach of Earth Day, many people and businesses turn their attention to issues concerning the environment, sustainability and the connections between generations. It is no different in the wine world. Actually, for many wineries every day is Earth Day. More and more wineries are committing to sustainable practices as their fundamental business model. So why not drink wines that make a difference by giving back to the environment and society?

 

One of the leaders in this movement is the Benziger Family Winery. At Benziger, sustainability is a family affair with around 24 members who live in and around the Sonoma Mountain winery. The winery was established on an 85-acre estate in Glen Ellen in 1980. Soon after, the family became convinced natural techniques yielded more flavorful, aromatic grapes with more site-specific character. Importantly, they found these practices also improved the health of the estate.

 

So, in 1996, they began converting the property into a biodynamic farm that in 2000 became one of the first Demeter-certified biodynamic vineyards in North America. Today, the family owns and farms four certified biodynamic Sonoma County vineyard estates on 168 acres.

 

The Benziger’s also work with their network of growers to extend their approach, requiring that all growers participate in a sustainability program that outlines standards for areas like soil vitality, biodiversity, water conservation and integrated pest management. Today, every wine crafted by Benziger carries a green farming certification from a third party certifier on its front label – sustainable, organic or biodynamic.

I had an opportunity a few weeks ago to have lunch with Jeff McBride, Benziger’s Vice President of Winemaking, and taste several recent releases. McBride joined the Benziger two years ago after more than three decades of winemaking in Sonoma and Washington. It was a delightful, wide ranging conversation. And, of course, I enjoyed the wines. I suggest you try the following wines (and seek out the many others Benziger produces):

2011 Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). Inviting aromas of dark fruits – plum, currant and cherry, black olives and herbs, well structured with nice, powdery tannins and a fresh finish.

2010 Sonoma County Merlot ($19). Pleasant aromas of blueberry and blackberry with a touch of spice, similar flavors and a touch of licorice finish with velvety tannins.

2012 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($29). Really nice aromas of black cherry and light touches of earth, silky palate delivers more cherry, mushroom and light spice.

2011 Sonoma County Chardonnay ($16). Loads of tropical fruit aromas accented with stone fruits like pear and a palate lifted with crisp citrus.

2012 North Coast Sauvignon Blanc ($15). Bright citrus – grapefruit and lime – and herbal aromas and flavors make this a perennially delightful Sauvignon Blanc.

 

Cultivate Wines represent the social aspect of the sustainability movement. The brainchild of noted Santa Barbara wine investor Charles Banks and his wife, Ali, this is a wine company dedicated to putting money back into local community projects by donating a portion of all sales. Cultivate gives back 10 cents of every dollar to help fund projects of opportunity and hope in communities across the globe.

 

They also are members of “1 Percent For The Planet,” an alliance of businesses that contribute at least 1 percent of their net annual sales to environmental organizations helping to protect forests, rivers and oceans, make agricultural and energy production more sustainable, get toxics out of the environment, and more.

 

Two good examples of their wines I tasted recently are sourced from Chile.

2011 Cultivate “Wonderlust” Chardonnay-Moscatell ($13). From the Colchagua Valley, Valle Centrale of Chile, the Chardonnay shows bright citrus and tropical fruit. The small amount of moscatell lifts the aromatics and adds weight to the palate. This is the first time I have seen this combination of grapes but it works!

 

2011 Cultivate “Copa Cabana” Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère-Syrah ($13). From Curicó, Valle Centrale of Chile, this blend offers juicy red and black fruits, nice accents of spice and a sensual texture.

 

Recent studies sponsored by The Wine Institute indicate that the sustainable, eco-friendly and socially responsible attributes of wine are increasingly important considerations for consumers when making wine purchasing decisions. Producers who many years ago began transitioning to sustainable practices but were reticent to publicize this over concerns about the poor reputation of early “natural wines” now are learning that socially conscious wine consumers are interested in information about sustainable and environmentally friendly practices in wineries and vineyards.

 

So, increasingly, producers are putting seals, logos or other information about sustainable practices on their bottles, often including third-party certification seals/statements to indicate sustainable, organic, or biodynamic practices. And consumers are responding.

 

So, this Earth Day (and beyond) raise a glass of sustainable wine knowing you can drink well while doing good.

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CENTRAL ITALY: SANGIOVESE AND SAGRANTINO ARE CERTAIN TO PLEASE

(Cover Photo: Wikimedia Commons (Matthew Hutchinson)

Montefalco Vineyards

 

Italy is an amazingly varied country and the regions of Tuscany and Umbria are Italy’s heartland, its backbone with the Apennine Mountains running north and south as if the country’s spine.

Tuscany is the most recognizable Italian state to American tourists and wine consumers. The picturesque, hilly countryside that attracts throngs of tourists also is a vinous wonderland. Dozens of grape varieties are grown  but it is sangiovese that dominates seven Chianti subzones. The most widely planted grape in Italy, most agree it reaches its pinnacle in Tuscany.

In general expect black cherry fruit (though various dark berries can show up) and vibrant acidity, with varying elements of earth, forest, herbs, smoke, and spice. With a few notable exceptions, most are medium-bodied and very dry, with a lean, structure finishing with fairly strong tannins. But there are regional variations as different clones are grown under different environments subject to different viticultural and winemaking techniques.

Sangiovese’s best-known incarnation is as the most important component of Chianti. The traditional recipe prescribed blending with various grapes, including white ones. Nowadays the rules have been relaxed and the best wines will be at least three-fourths sangiovese.

Basic Chianti today is much better than the wicker basket stuff that made the wine famous and later infamous in the 1970’s. Since then, improvements in viticulture and winemaking have improved quality considerably. But for a great leap in quality, consumers should turn their attention to Chianti Classico, the specified zone just to the south of Florence stretching to Siena. Wines from this area consistently produce the best Chiantis. Here are some good options from my recent tastings:

Badia a Coltibuono. Badia a Coltibuono (which means Abbey of the Good Harvest) dates to the eleventh century when monks constructed the Abbey and planted the first vineyards. Today, the associated restaurant and cooking school have become world famous and the winery is one of Chianti’s most famous. The 2010 Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico ($17) is a classic Chianti showing aromas of wild cherry, forest floor and clove spice. It’s easy drinking yet delivers admirable density, a tight structure and mouthfeel. Notably, it is made with organically grown sangiovese and canaiolo grapes.

 

Castello di Gabbiano. This is another prominent property that dates from the eleventh century. As seems to be common in Tuscany, the property also includes a restaurant and accommodations. But it is the wines from the estate vineyards that interest us here.

• The 2011 Gabbiano Chianti Classico ($12) is the basic, everyday Chianti. And it is flavorful and easy drinking (have less wood influence) with nice cherry and raspberry fruit plus floral and some spice all delivered with vibrant acidity.

• The 2010 Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva ($22) comes only from estate grapes and sees more wood in the winemaking process. This yields more mature aromas and flavors – coffee, forest and toast notes, cinnamon – but still delivers enjoyable plum and black cherry fruit; should improve with age.

• The 2010 Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva “Bellezza” ($40) is a different creature. It’s certainly Chianti but is made in what I can only think to describe as a modern style. It’s also made using grapes from a single vineyard. “Bellezza” refers to the beauty of the vineyard and also could describe the wine. Oak notes of vanilla, coffee and toast enhance black cherry and blackberry fruit. The substantial tannins need time to integrate but will reward patience.

 

Selvapiana. In my experience, Chianti Rufina is the most reliable after Chianti Classico of the eight Chianti subzones. It has become a favorite for good value. And Selvapiana is one of the subzone’s best producers. The 2010 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina ($17) is a good example of this. A perfumed wine, with tight yet manageable tannins, its bright cherry, floral, tobacco, spice and earth aromas and flavors deliver satisfaction.

 

Tenuta di Arceno. Arceno is located in an area where winemaking is believed to date back to the Etruscans in the eight century B.C. Today it is owned by California’s formidable Jackson Family Estates and the 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Strada al Sasso ($35), a single vineyard wine, impresses with intense black cherry fruit accented with licorice, spice, and tobacco.

 

Avignonesi. Elsewhere in Tuscany, nearer Siena, the town of Montepulciano is the source of another sangiovese-based wine – particularly a local variant called “prugnolo gentile.” Traditionally the wine was so prized it was favored by royalty. Hence, the name Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. From one of the best producers in the area, the 2010 Avignonesi Vino Nobile di Montepulciano ($29) may be the best overall value in this review. Its deep fruit of cherry, raspberry and blackberry, is accented with hints of chocolate, coffee, and spice. With its rich texture and firm tannins bringing balance, it should develop well.

Piccini. But for many connoisseurs it is the area around nearby Montalcino that is the epicenter for production of great sangiovese wines. Here, Brunello di Montalcino, unlike in Chianti, is made of 100 percent sangiovese (the local clone is called brunello) and by law aged two years in oak and an additional three years in bottle. The wines are big, powerful and highly structured, requiring many years to reach their peak. They also are disproportionately priced. Piccini’s 2007 Villa al Cortile ($50) actually is affordable by comparison. Forest and earth notes of mint, coffee, tobacco, minerals, cola, and black pepper join wild berry and currant fruit all lifted by a firm structure and long finish.

Casanova di Neri. Rosso di Montalcino, typically made of sangiovese from younger vines, tends to be lighter and earlier maturing than Brunello. Maybe this is why it’s often described as a “baby Brunello.” Though not labeled as such, the Casanova di Neri 2008 Sant’ Antimo Rosso di Casanova di Neri ($21) is basically a Rosso di Montalcino. It shows some of that black pepper and cola but with more emphasis on fresh fruit in a lighter frame.

No column about Tuscany would be complete without addressing the Super Tuscan phenomena. In the 1970’s innovators like Piero Antinori bucked the Chianti establishment and used grapes like cabernet sauvignon and merlot in their wines – even though they were not allowed to label them Chianti – because they helped make better wine. With the subsequent success of this approach, many others took notice and began making their own versions. The Super Tuscan moniker soon took hold as a descriptor. Now it seems every Chianti producer also makes a Super Tuscan. The wines can be 100% sangiovese or some blend of sangiovese with grapes like cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah.

Marchesi Frescobaldi. Two good examples I tasted recently come from this famed Tuscan family with extensive holdings in the region. From Castello di Nipozzano, another well-regarded Chianti Rufina producer, Frescobaldi produces the single vineyard Super Tuscan “Mormoreto” but only in the best years. The 2008 Castello di Nipozzano “Mormoreto” ($75) combines 60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 12% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot aged two years in French oak barrels. It definitely shows its oak along with red fruits and dark plum. Herbal and spice notes join the rich, dense fruit and firm tannins suggest this wine will evolve for several years.

A bit more affordable is the 2009 Tenuta Frescobaldi di Castiglioni Toscana ($25). The Frescobaldi family has held Tenuta di Castiglioni – located southwest of Florence in Val di Pesa – since the 11th century, with wine being produced here since the early 1300s. Today it houses the family’s main production facilities. Documentation indicates this wine is 50% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 10% cabernet franc and 10% sangiovese. I really liked its lively fruit and its easy drinking style. Still, it was held together with a firm structure.

Many travelers consider Umbria – the region south of Tuscany (Florence) and north of Lazio (Rome) – to be a “no man’s land,” fly over country (or train throughcountry). Those who take the time to visit the hill towns of the area learn that is a mistake. It’s Tuscany without the crowds. And when it comes to Italian wine, many wine drinkers make a similar mistake. Certainly, the great reds of Tuscany have earned their fame. But there are vinous gems from Umbria that merit serious attention.

As with Tuscany, wine grapes have been grown here since Roman times and there are some interesting red and white wines but it really is the reds that shine. Especially those from the sagrantino grape, a likely indigenous thick-skinned variety that yields an intensely flavored juice with the potential (in the hands of a skilled winemaker) for bold, long-lived wines.

Until recently, it was little known outside of its home base around the city of Montefalco. But that began to change in the 1970’s when Arnaldo Caprai began to resurrect the grape. By the 1990’s, Arnaldo’s son Marco brought Sagrantino di Montefalco to international acclaim.

Today, Arnaldo Caprai is widely considered the most skilled producer of this wine. And 2007 Arnaldo Caprai “Collepiano” Sagrantino di Montefalco ($60)  is a shining example of how fine these wines can be. The gentle hills and clay-limstone soils of the Collepiano area of production sourced this wine of amazing complexity and depth. Notes of tobacco, brown spices and herbs overlay the black cherry and plum fruit that form its inviting core. It’s intense yet drinks balanced and elegant.

Another good example is the 2007 Tenuta Castelbuono Montefalco Sagrantino ($36). Maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised the Lunelli family of Ferrari Trento Metodo Classico fame has owned this property since 2001. This family knows how to recognize and realize potential for greatness. The wine tends toward a rustic style with slightly tougher tannins and a touch of intriguing bitterness in the finish. This is met with abundant wild berry and some forest notes that are sure to please.

So, if you can’t afford the airfare to taste these wines at their source, just pick up a few at your local wine shop, pour a glass, take a sip, close your eyes, and dream.