While varietally labeled wines are the most popular among consumers, wine blends have increased significantly in interest in recent years. Instead of the character of just one variety, blends allow consumers to experience how different aromas and flavors from different grapes come together to create a unique assemblage.
While varietally labeled wines are the most popular among consumers, wine blends have in increased significantly in esteem in recent years. Instead of the character of just one variety, blends allow consumers to experience how different aromas and flavors from different grapes, vineyard sources and barrels come together to create a unique assemblage. The result is a more complete, multidimensional wine.
Wines such as these demonstrate that just as cultural diversity is a societal strength; so diversity in winemaking has distinctive benefits. The result is a more complete, multidimensional wine with balance amidst complexity – the wine version of E pluribus unum (“from many one”). The wines below, from Napa and Sonoma, display the synergy that embodies the classic sentiment of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts.
First, two good values:
Arguably, the best value in my tasting, the 2019 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($27) – 2/3 syrah, with cabernet sauvignon and merlot – is surprisingly complex with persistent dark and red berries, a graceful structure, with savory spices, and a supple texture.
Also quite tasty, the 2019 The Paring Santa Barbara ($25) is delightfully easy drinking. It shares vineyard sources with its winemaker’s top tier wines, JONATA and The Hilt (Santa Ynez Valley, Sta. Rita Hills and Santa Maria Valley). Mostly cabernet sauvignon with merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot, it displays classic notes of cassis, tobacco and chocolate, focused fruit and shapely tannins
These wines are listed in order of my preference but all are recommended:
Located in the rolling hills of Ballard Canyon in Santa Ynez Valley, the 2018 Jonata “Fenix” ($85) shows that Bordeaux varieties can shine in an area that is known for its Rhone-style wines. With 2/3 merlot, plus cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, and cabernet franc, this is an impressive complex of mixed berries, accents of toasty oak and mocha, with a powerful yet poised and refined palate.
Fifteen years ago, Duckhorn released its first red blend, The Discussion. As the pinnacle of its portfolio, the current vintage (2017, $155), mostly cabernet sauvignon, with significant merlot, and some petit verdot and cabernet franc, is juicy and highly structured, delivering red berries, elevated with toasted, creamy oak.
Aperture Cellars in Sonoma County continues to amaze with its complex, well-endowed Bordeaux-style wines. The 2018 Red Blend “Soil Series” ($55) with 1/3 cabernet sauvignon, 1/3 merlot, with malbec, cabernet franc and petit Verdot from hillside vineyards is amazing at the price. It is well-endowed, with mixed berries and savory accents. It is rich and expansive, powerful but graceful.
Priest Ranch is located high in the Vaca Mountains on the eastern side of the Napa Valley. The 2018 Peacemaker ($90), a cabernet sauvignon and merlot blend, is energetic with red fruits, anise, tobacco, and full-bodied, with fine-grained tannins.
Established on Mt. Veeder ninety-five years ago, Brandlin Estate wines excel with elegant, structured mountain grown fruit. The 2018 “Henry’s Keep” ($115), cabernet sauvignon accented with malbec, cabernet franc, and petit verdot, is packed with focused berry fruit, anise and herbal notes and finely knit tannins.
The Gamble Family has farmed Napa Valley over 100 years. Their 2017 Paramount ($90), which is sourced from the family’s vineyards throughout the valley, is near-equal parts cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, and merlot with petit verdot. It’s succulent plum and raspberry wraps subtle vanilla and herbal touches and glides along a rich mouthfeel.
From a leading organic and biodynamic producer in the Sonoma Valley, the 2018 Hamel Family “Isthmus” ($90) features 2/3 cabernet sauvignon, with merlot, cabernet franc and petit verdot from the producer’s two estates, Hamel Family and Nun’s Canyon in the Moon Mountain District. With ripe, concentrated dark fruits, given complexity with notes of tobacco, crushed rock and forest notes, and a toasty finish.
The 2016 Ashes & Diamonds “Grand Vin No. 3” A & D Vineyard ($95) is a blend of merlot and cabernet franc from the Ashes & Diamonds Vineyard within the winery’s Oak Knoll District estate. It is a wine of finesse and elegance that maintains fresh red and blue fruit flavors while exalting secondary characteristics of baking spice and herbal tones.
Paraduxx was created by Duckhorn Vineyards, which is celebrated for its Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot wines, in 1994 as a winery devoted to Napa Valley blends and the exploration of other varieties and styles. The 2019 Proprietary Red ($54)
is a bold, expressive blend of mostly cabernet sauvignon with petite sirah, zinfandel, petit verdot, syrah, and malbec. It is rich, bold and full flavored, with soft tannins.
The 2018 Dry Creek “The Mariner” ($50) – 2/3 cabernet sauvignon, with merlot, malbec, petit verdot and cabernet franc – shows cassis and blueberries, with notes of chocolate, cured meats, and savory herbs, in a firm frame with a slightly dusty character.
From its base in a far western corner of Paso Robles, Justin Vineyards produces a range of highly regarded Bordeaux-style wines. With their new Right Angle line, they seek to express an elegant, eclectic character of Paso Robles. Hence, this wine (2019, $35) mixes cabernet sauvignon, malbec, petit verdot and petite sirah to achieve an intriguing mix of dark fruit, spice, savory elements and sleek texture.
The 2017 Sosie “Cavedale” ($45) is from a high elevation Moon Mountain vineyard near Sonoma’s Bennett Valley and a winery that takes France as its benchmark. This wine – 45% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot and 10% cabernet franc – delivers a well-structured wine with bright, intense red fruit, refreshing acidity, with notes of pepper, tobacco and dark chocolate.