California Zinfandel has long been my favorite red wine. There are many reasons it should be yours, too.
It is quite versatile with food. It’s as good with red meat as any Cabernet. And it is better with spicy foods like Italian and Indian. But it really shines with the barbecue and grilled foods this time of year. I’m partial to sausages.
I mostly love Zinfandel because it captures the essence of exuberance in a glass. Although it can be made in a variety of styles, it typically exhibits a bold and brash character (often described as briar or bramble), with a lively texture delivering succulent raspberry, blackberry and black cherry fruit accented with spices (usually black pepper) and sage, and often a little wild character, though with moderate tannin. Or it can be balanced, elegant, nuanced, though still with significant alcohol.
Zinfandel also ages well, typically reaching its peak around 5-to-10 years but capable of being enjoyed well after. Even better, it is one of the best values in wine, considering the overall quality, which can rival the finest wines in the world, as most of even the best wines are under $50 and there are countless good ones under $40.
And while the zinfandel grape, like so many other California grapes, is a European immigrant (originating in Croatia), it really is one of the few that makes indisputably better wine in California than anywhere else. An accomplishment that makes it uniquely American.
Zinfandel is grown successfully all over the state. And some zinfandel vineyards are among the oldest in the U.S. The best of these demonstrate the quality possible with old vines more than any other grape. Thus, the term “Old Vine” has become a badge of honor for producers and a clue to special character for consumers. Ideally, such vines yield more concentrated grapes and ultimately more intense and complex wines. [The term is not regulated (though most respectable producers use at least fifty years old as a cut off), so labels are on the honor system and often abused by marketers.]
A couple of things to keep in mind, though: Zinfandel tends toward high alcohol. The wines in my tastings ranged from 14% to 15.5% alcohol. Also, many bottlings include small amounts of grapes like petite sirah and carignan, usually to add structure and backbone. Some are what are called a “field blend” with many varieties planted intermixed in the vineyard. They may include petite sirah, carignan, alicante bouchet and sometimes grapes that have not been identified.
Here are my recommendations (in order of preference but all are recommended):
2019 Hartford Old Vine ($40) Russian River Valley
Best known as a top producer of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Hartford Family also turns out excellent Zinfandels, including this blend of five vineyard sources. It is powerful yet elegant bursting with all sorts of berries accented with pepper and toast in a rich, yet tightly wound frame.
2017 Seghesio Old Vine Sonoma County ($40)
The Seghesio family began growing Zinfandel in northern Sonoma almost 120 years ago. They have become one of the most reliable Zin producers around. Old Vine is a well-balanced, slightly briary wine with blackberry and black cherry, notes of smoke and pepper, with powdery tannins.
2018 Dutcher Crossing Maple Vineyard ($50)
Based in the Dry Creek Valley producing a wide range of wines but Zinfandel dominates the portfolio. In the heart of the valley, the Maple Vineyard’s vines are dry farmed and head pruned. It’s ripe with good depth, and well defined, energetic fruit hinting at richness.
2019 Dry Creek Vineyard “Old Vine” Dry Creek Valley ($38)
This pioneer of modern day Dry Creek Valley wine, produces a variety of well made wines, including very good Sauvignon Blanc, though I have always been partial to its Zinfandels. This one is from vines averaging average 100+ years, dry farmed and head pruned yield a firm but luscious wine of concentrated briary blackberry and raspberry, with suggestions of sweetness and peppery spice.
Finally, four fine values:
2018 Seghesio Sonoma County ($26) abundant, juicy cherry and blackberry, lightly peppery, sleek texture
2019 Girard Old Vine ($28) From a winery best known for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, this wine sourced from select vineyards throughout Napa Valley is surprisingly attractive. It has jammy ripe, lively red berries with toasty spice notes and a polished palate
2019 Mettler Epicenter ($25) From a family that has been growing grapes in the Lodi appellation for over 120 years and has become leaders in certified organically and sustainably grown viticulture. This 50-year-old vineyard is located in the Mokelumne River sub-appellation, the ‘epicenter’ of Lodi’s old vine Zinfandel district. It shows red and dark berries, smoky, spicy herbal notes, solid texture.
2019 Cosentino “THE Zin” ($28) Making wine in the Napa Valley for over 40 years, Cosentino recognized the quality and value afforded by Lodi grapes and created a line of wines simply called “THE”. THE Zin is another typical Lodi with dark red fruit, boysenberry and baking spice with a velvety mouthfeel and balanced acidity.
To learn more about zinfandel, check out these websites:
Zinfandel Advocates and Producers: www.zinfandel.org
California Zinfandel Wine Trail: https://zinfandeltrail.com/