The popularity of wine Argentina and Chile with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now. And it seems to have escalated since the beginning of the Great Recession. This past year I have read numerous reports in the wine press about the growth in exports of wine from Argentina and Chile worldwide, especially in the U.S.
In keeping with this value theme, the main reason for this popularity seems to be that most of the wines remain modestly priced, even as the quality has improved. In this column, I review Argentina; next month it’ll be Chile.
In Argentina, the star is Malbec, from a minor blending grape in Bordeaux (though important in the southwestern France region of Cahors) that experiences some sort of alchemy in these South American soils. Mendoza is the primary source, though other regions have gotten into the act successfully. The warm days and cool nights of this high desert climate (not unlike Colorado) drape the alluvial soils of the high altitude vineyards in the shadows of the Andes Mountains, making an ideal home for the grape.
Much good quality Malbec can be had for $15 or less. Good options from my recent tastings include the 2009 Arido ($10), 2009 Portillo ($10), 2009 Budini ($13), 2009 Tomero ($14), and 2008 Trapiche “Broquel” ($15). While I enjoyed those, the 2008 La Posta “Cocina” ($15) and 2009 Trivento “Amado Sur” ($15) stood out for their solid structure, fine fruit, and unexpected (for the price) complexity.
For just a little more money expect more fruit and intensity from the 2009 Layer Cake ($16), 2009 Michel Torino “Don David Reserve” ($15), 2007 Rutini ($18), 2009 Bodegas Salentein Reserve ($19), 2008 Cruz Andina ($20), and 2008 Trivento Gold Reserve ($21).
The most expensive Malbec in these tastings, the 2008 Mendel ($30), did turn out to be the best. With it’s firm structure, pure fruit, and refined texture, it may be the best value of all.
Other regions are getting into the act, too. The 2009 Ruta 22 ($13), from the southern region of Patagonia, also showed well. Route 22 is the main road used to travel from the East to the West in Argentina. The vineyards lie in the Neuquen Valley located in the southern region of Patagonia. Keep an eye out for wines from Patagonia.
Those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon also will find something to love from Argentina. For instance, Andeluna Cellars, near the town of Tupungato in Mendoza, has turned out a 2008 that delivers an amazing amount of cabernet character for a measly $10. Another $10 winner is the 2008 Trapiche Oak Cask. And the 2006 Andeluna Reserve also delivers admirable quality at $20, as does the 2005 Navarro Correas Allegoria Gran Reserva ($19).
Many producers also have found success blending Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2008 Amancaya Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) easy going and flavorful, while the 2006 Andeluna Reserve Celebracion ($20) is more elegant and complex. Although pricier, the 2004 Navarro Correas “Ultra” ($30) delivers added measures of earth, spice and cocoa, while the 2006 Caro ($50) is intense and firm with good depth.
A great surprise in the tasting was the 2009 “Barda” Pinot Noir ($25) from Bodega Chacra in Patagonia. Surprising in that who would have expected such a delicious pinot with a fine balance of ripeness and grace from Argentina?
The most interesting white wine comes from torrontés, which grows most successfully in the northern regions of Salta and La Rioja. The grape makes typically very aromatic wines, with a bit of spice, and floral notes. Expect stone fruits, melon, pear, or tangerine and a light body. The best of my tastings was the 2010 Crios de Susanna Balbo ($15), followed by the 2009 Trivento “Amado Sur” ($15). The 2009 Michel Torino “Don David Reserve” ($15), 2010 Tomero ($14), 2008 Trivento Reserve ($11 ) also merit attention. The 2009 Trapiche ($8) and 2010 Callia Alta ($9) are good values under $10.
All in all, an impressive showing. For the most part, Argentina wine delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. As producers learn more about Argentina’s terroir and work to reflect that ion their wines, we should expect even more improvement.