As in other areas of life, it’s easy for us to get in a rut drinking limited types of wines. But as in life, so in wine: a diversity of grapes and their flavor profiles is enriching. My recent tasting of “alternative” white wines (that is, no Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc) proves it. You should find these wines bright, food-friendly and enjoyable any time.
Albariño from Spain’s Rias Baixas region delivers fresh fruity character, citrus and savory almond qualities.The bracing 2023 Mar de Frades ($22) adds mineral and saline qualities, tropical fruits, and eucalyptus. Known as alvarhino in Portugal’s Vinho Verde region, just across the border with Spain, tends to be lighter and brighter. The minty 2023 Mendes & Symington “Contacto” ($22) is a bit different as it went through skin contact to add layers of flavor and complexity.
Assyrtiko is indigenous to Santorini where the volcanic soil is especially friendly. Known for fresh citrus, flinty character, and hints of sea breeze, here are two outstanding examples: honeyed, peach, smoky 2018 Santo “Selection Cuvee” ($28) and 2022 GAI’A “Thalassitis” ($43) from ungrafted old vines, citrus, stone fruit, mineral.
Gewürztraminer is one of my favorite wines with its grapefruit, melon and lychee fruit, unctuous texture and suggestions of warm spice, and. The world standard is Alsace (also notable in Italy’s Alto Adige) and there are some fine ones from the Pacific Coast, including this lovely aromatic, vibrant 2022 Bouchaine ($45).
Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature white grape. Also grown in Italy, there are small but increasing plantings in California. It produces outgoing, lively wines, with succulent citrus, stone and tropical fruit, and hints of spicy herbs. I enjoyed the organic, single vineyard, full-bodied, finely structured 2019 Mantlerhof “Spiegel” (Austria, $37) and creamy but refreshing 2023 Abbazia di Novacella (Alto Adige, $25).
Pinot Blanc. A mutation of pinot noir, pinot blanc is associated with Alsace, Austria, Germany, and Italy. It tends to apple, pear, and melon with a relatively weighty texture. The crisp but smooth 2022 Trimbach ($19) is a fine introduction.
Pinot Gris, generally noted for full bodied, sumptuous pear, stone fruit, melon, and citrus – is a clone of pinot noir and believed to have originated in Burgundy yet these days is more prominent in Alsace, Germany, Italy and Austria. It’s the leading white variety in Oregon and increasingly popular in California. These Alsatian wines are excellent: biodynamic, lush, amazingly flavorful Zind-Humbrecht “Turckheim” ($28) and organic, biodynamic, succulent 2021 Domaine Weinbach “Clos des Capucins” ($45) from an old vine single vineyard.
Sylvaner, which is originally from Austria but more common now in Germany, is also produced in Italy’s Alto Adige. It typically makes fresh, fruity wines with crisp acidity, like the herbaceous, melony 2023 Abbazia di Novacella ($25).