Even with a vastly increasing diversity of grape varieties available to consumers, chardonnay remains California’s most planted white variety and the bestselling white wine in the United States.
Big, superripe, heavily oaked Chardonnays were popular in the ‘90s but these “butter bombs” fell out of favor with many winemakers and consumers over the last 20 years as they rediscovered balance, pure fruit and acidity. But I have noticed something concerning in my tastings over the last few years: many overwhelmed (me, at least) with characteristics like caramel, brown butter, and heavy cream. Don’t get me wrong; these technically are well made wines. I just think these qualities in excess obscure the elements of the vineyard sources and quality of the fruit.
My picks for this column are wines (regardless of price), mostly from cool sites, that balance those richer characteristics with freshness, ripe fruit, and minerality, allowing a better reflection of the vineyard sources.
Look for lemon, lime, apple, pear, orange, tangerine, peach, nectarine, melon, and tropical fruit. Expect palates that are bright, crisp, lively and energetic. Other distinguishing traits, present usually as accents, are noted below.
Excellent Values
2022 Presqu’ile Santa Barbara County ($22) honeyed, herbal
2021 Mer Soleil Reserve Monterey ($24) almond, sweet spice
2022 Chalk Hill Sonoma Coast ($25) toast, cinnamon
2022 Sonoma-Cuter Sonoma Coast ($25) soft palate, light oak
Fine Value, More Complexity
2022 Davis Bynum River West Vineyard ($30) vegan butterscotch
2021 Crossbarn Sonoma Coast ($30) 100% stainless steel fermented, stony
2021 Balletto Russian River ($32) nutty, elegant
2022 Freemark Abbey Napa ($36) vanilla, baking spice
2022 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “Karia” Napa ($36) warming spices
2021 Sonoma-Cutrer “The Cutrer” Russian River ($36) light vanilla, oak spice
2022 Talley Estate San Louis Obuspo ($38) fresh bread
2022 Frank Family Carneros ($40) butterscotch
2021 Daou “Bodyguard” Santa Barbara ($40) nuts, earth
2021 Valdemar Estates Columbia Valley ($40) floral, lush texture
2022 Jordan Russian River ($42) mineral, subtle oak
2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Dutton ($42) famous vineyard, clove, toast
2022 Goosecross Carneros ($46) sharp, toast, herbal
Significant Investment with Excellent Returns
2021 Rodney Strong Reserve ($50) vanilla, baking spice
2021 The Hilt Sta. Rita Hills ($50) light butter, sea breeze
2020 FEL “Savoy” Mendocino ($52) elegant, toasty
2022 Mayacamas ($65) floral, lush
2021 Black Kite “Gap’s Crown” ($65) sea minerals, vanilla
2022 MacRostie Nightwing Petaluma Gap ($66) richness, ginger
2021 Three Sticks “Origin” Durell ($70) sea salt, mouthwatering
2021 Three Sticks “One Sky” Sonoma Mountain ($70) organic, light butter, electric
2021 Inman “Pratt Vine Hill” Russian River ($73) nutmeg, hazelnut
2021 Ram’s Gate “Bucher” ($74) lush, ginger, butterscotch, steely minerals
2019 Ram’s Gate “El Diablo” ($74) intense, grilled pineapple, cardamom
2021 Three Sticks “Alana” ($80) organic, richness, succulent, light toast
2022 Odette Reserve Napa ($80) cashew, custard