Chianti has long been the best-known Tuscan wine in the U.S. But there are many other fine Tuscan wines. And most of the best of these have sangiovese as their base.
Sangiovese typically yields medium bodied wines with lively red fruits, firm, dry structure, and silky tannins. Complexity is revealed in spice, earth, forest, and mineral notes. Traditionally, it has been blended with other native varieties, and more recently Bordeaux grapes, but in recent years, producers have been increasing its amount.
Wines from Chianti usually are an exceptional value compared to wines of comparable quality. There are good everyday wines labeled simply Chianti. Wines labeled with a specific subzone should be a step up in quality (and price).
Chianti Classico indicates the wine comes the original production zone, which is widely considered to produce the best wines. The cherry flavored, earthy 2022 San Felice ($22) is a good example. Wines labeled Riserva – such as the organic, deep cherry and blackberry of the 2018 Coltibuono ($40) and the aromatic, structured 2019 Querciabella ($50) usually are selections of the producer’s finest fruit and receive extended time maturing in barrel and bottle before release.
The Chianti Rufina zone is generally considered the best sub-region after Chianti Classico. The elegant, juicy, earthy 2020 Nipozzano Reserva ($20) and organic, savory, nuanced 2020 Selvapiana Reserva “Bucerchiale” ($38) are proof why.
There are other regions around Chianti that deserve your attention. Carmignano northwest of Florence has been prized since the 1700s. The powerful, tannic 2019 Capezzana Villa de Capezzana ($32) is emblematic of the ongoing quality.
Brunello di Montalcino, 100% local sangiovese clone grown around Montalcino, is even more prized than Chianti, also more expensive. These are some of the most muscular, concentrated, long-lived expressions of Sangiovese. As witnessed in the luscious red fruit and mixed spice and herb of the 2019 Il Poggione ($100) and the mixed berries and baking spice of the 2018 CastelGiocondo ($64)
Montecucco is a small zone west of Montalcino in a area known as the Maremma. It is notable as a leader in sustainability, including organic production, fostering biodiversity, and employing environmentally harmonious practices.
2016 Montale La Casetta Reserva ($40) dense red fruits, cocoa and licorice
2018 Maciarine Montecucco Sangiovese ($26) loaded with red fruits and warm spices
2019 Le Pianore “Tiniatus” Montecucco Rosso ($20) softer, open ended
And then there are the so-called Super Tuscans. Not an official category, Super Tuscan indicates the use of nonindigenous grapes, particularly cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. Many of these wines are the most prized and expensive from Italy but a good starting point for you is the more affordable, lively, toasty, soft textured, 2021 Tenuta Luce “Lucente” ($29) 75% merlot, 25% sangiovese.