COASTAL ITALY’S RED WINES
Italy has over 1.73 million acres of vineyards and about 4900 miles of coastline. No surprise many of those vineyards are close to a coastline. The resulting maritime climate, sea breezes that mitigate the effects of hot days, generate excellent growing conditions for grapes.
The western coast of Tuscany, known as the Maremma, especially Bolgheri in the north coast, has emerged over the last several decades as a source of some of Italy’s most sought after (and most expensive) wines. Most of the wines are Super Tuscan blends with Bordeaux grape varieties.
2021 San Felice Bell’Aja ($70) from a fine Chianti producer; mostly merlot
2021 Aia Vecchia Sor Ugo ($42) winery’s top wine; cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot
2022 Sapaio Volpolo ($36) organic cabernet sauvignon, ith merlot, petit verdot
2022 Le Volte dell’ Ornellaia ($34) entry level wine of the legendary Ornellaia; merlot, cabernet sauvignon, sangiovese
2022 Argentiera Poggio Ai Ginepri ($31) estate grown cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, petit verdot
On the southern Maremma coast, similar conditions exist, prices are more reasonable, hence it’s the new frontier. Many wines also are Super Tuscan-style.
2019 Querciabella Turpino ($45) another fine Chianti producer; biodynamically grown cabernet franc, syrah, and merlot
2019 Lohsa “Mandrone di Lohsa” ($52) from Vino Nobile di Montepulciano winery Poliziano; cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, carignano
Lazio is not only home to Rome. There are numerous interesting, mostly white varieties but also interesting local red varieties. Though, I have become partial to the merlot-based wines produced by Cotarella. Like the2020 Cotarella “Tenuta Montiano” Sodale ($25).
Campania is best known for Naples, Pompeii, Capri, and the Amalfi Coast. Its most prestigious red wine is Taurasi, made from aglianico. The 2016 Feudi di San Gregorio “Piano di Montevergine” Taurasi Riserva ($76) is such a wine.
Puglia stretches down the southeast coast of Italy forming the “heel of the boot”. It is especially known for its numerous native grape varieties
2020 Masseria Li Veli “MLV” Primitivo ($50) Li Veli’s top wine; 15% cabernet sauvignon
2020 Varvaglione “Papale Oro” Primitivo ($30) old vines; produced only in best vintages
2015 Torrevento Ottagono Riserva ($20) nero di troia; sustainability produced
2016 Torrevento Vigna Pedale Riserva ($14) nero di troia; similar to Ottagono but lighter
Much of Abruzzo is national parks and the Apennine mountains. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is the premier red wine produced from the montepulciano grape.
2019 La Valentina “Bellovedere” Riserva ($64) organic, single vineyard; winery’s top wine, produced in the best years
2019 Binomio Riserva ($52) joint venture between Veneto producer Inama and La Valentina; old vine, ancient clone
2019 Masciarelli “Marina Cvetić” Martino Rosso Riserva ($38) sleek, easy drinking style
2021 Cantina Zaccagnini Tralcetto ($17) solid entry level wine at a reasonable price
Le Marche vineyards stretch east from the Apennines to the Adriatic. Most red wines are made with montepulciano or sangiovese. The 2019 Garofoli Grosso Agontano ($30) top-tier montepulciano, sustainably farmed; made in exceptional years.