The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

February 19, 2011April 6, 2011

Chile Another South American Source of Excellent Values

As I wrote in a previous post, the popularity of wine from Argentina and Chile with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now. And it seems to have escalated since the beginning of the Great Recession. The main reason for this popularity seems to be that most of the wines remain modestly priced, even as the quality has improved.

Chilean wines have been good values as long as I can remember. What is different now is that the quality has improved rather dramatically in recent years. Just as I proposed in my post last month on Argentina, there are good wines under $10 and in some ways even better values in the $10-$20 range.

Another similarity with Argentina is the fairly recent emergence of an otherwise lesser-known variety – in this case Carménère – as the country’s signature wine. This red grape was widely planted in Bordeaux in the early 1700’s but virtually disappeared in the late 1800’s. As immigrants and others brought European varieties to Chile in the mid 1800’s, it showed up there; seemingly disappeared again over time (actually it apparently was often mistaken for merlot); then was discovered again in the 1990’s and rather quickly recognized for its potential in this new environment.

Typically, Carménère is a deeply colored wine that displays appealing berry, coffee and spice notes. The Colchagua Valley, south of Santiago, is considered the primary source as it is for these wines recommended from my tastings: 2009 Cono Sur “Bicycle” ($11), 2009 Mont Gras Reserva ($15), 2008 Arboleda ($19).

But Carménère is not just a “value” wine in Chile. Numerous wineries are producing refined, complex Carménère. A good example is the 2007 “El Incidente” ($50) from Viu Manent. This inaugural vintage contains the finest grapes from their Colchagua vineyards. Translated as “the incident,” the name refers to a balloon accident from the family’s history. This complex wine shows dark berries, brown spice, and hints of chocolate. It also clearly benefits from the addition of Petit Verdot and Malbec. This 75 year-old family owned winery also produces a wide variety of wines at modest prices.

Despite the excitement for and promise of Carménère, Cabernet Sauvignon still dominates the reds. It tends to show more ripe fruit than, say, Bordeaux but more structure and herbal notes than California. Look for wines especially from the Maipo (just north of Santiago) and Colchagua valleys. My favorites from the tastings: 2008 Los Vascos Reserve ($20) from a winery managed by the Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite), 2007 Santa Rita “Medalla Real” Single Estate ($20), 2009 Cono Sur Organic Cabernet Sauvignon/Carménère ($14).

As for the whites, Chardonnay still rules by volume but Sauvignon Blanc, especially from the Casablanca Valley (west of Santiago near the coast), may turn to be the best white overall. The finest are fresh and crisp and quite aromatic. They tend to display lively fruit and occasionally mineral notes. These showed well in my tastings: Los Vascos $11, 2010 Santa Rita Reserva ($12), 2008 Arboleda ($18).

Actually, like California, Chile has quite a diverse landscape and climate – in this case the Pacific Ocean borders to the west, the Andes Mountains line the east, and the Atacama Desert defines the north. This allows many different grape varieties to be grown successfully. Beyond the varieties already mentioned, there is a lot of merlot and I’ve been reading about the improving Syrah (although neither of these were included in my tastings).

Chile also is turning into a good source of Pinot Noir. One of my favorite producers is Cono Sur, the pioneer of Chilean Pinot Noir. They seek a Burgundian style, with a Chilean accent. The 2009 “Vision” ($15) is a fine expression of the Block 68 Old Vine Vineyard in Colchagua Valley. The 2008 “20 Barrels” ($28) is a limited edition special selection that rewards the effort to select the best lots from their Casablanca Valley vineyards.

Another good Pinot Noir is the Bodegas Corpora 2008 “Llai Llai” ($13). Llai Llai (which means “wind” in the indigenous Mapuche) is a new brand featuring two wines, a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the Bio Bio Valley in the remote southern part of the country, whose cool climate and significant coastal influence offers excellent conditions for these varieties.

Interestingly, Chile is emerging as an innovator in sustainable agriculture. Several of the wineries mentioned in this column employ a variety of sustainable practices – Arboleda (sustainable viticulture, environmental and worker protection), Cono Sur (integrated vineyard management, organic vineyards, carbon neutral delivery), Santa Rita (sustainable viticulture), Bodegas Corpora (organic and biodynamic viticulture, solar energy), Viu Manent (environmental protection, carbon neutral).

One of Chile’s most socially and environmentally responsible businesses is Emiliana, a 25 year-old winery from the family that also manages the iconic Concha y Toro winery. Emiliana is dedicated to producing wines

made from organic and biodynamic grapes. And the winemaking has transitioned to using indigenous yeast. They have earned carbon neutral certification for many of their wines; use recycled and recyclable materials; have reduced packaging; and recycle waste products. Beyond production values, the company certifies good and fair working conditions and supports community projects. They even share profits in ancillary honey and olive oil ventures with the workers.

In addition to the top-of-the-line Coyam and “G” biodynamic wines and the organic Natura and Novas lines, Emiliana has introduced a new line called Eco Balance (from sustainably farmed vineyards in transition to organic status). Priced at an inviting $9 and delivering equally attractive quality, the whites include 2009 Sauvignon Blanc and 2009 Chardonnay (both Casablanca). The reds include 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo), 2008 Merlot (Rapel), and 2008 Carménère (Colchagua).

All in all, my tastings revealed a diverse and impressive showing. For the most part, Chilean wine delivers high quality at reasonable prices, a good combination in any economy.

February 6, 2011April 6, 2011

BUBBLES AND ROSES FOR VALENTINE’S DAY

I have to admit my wife and I aren’t big on most holidays or special occasions. Frankly, we’re put off by the commercialism. That’s especially true this time of year. Having just made it through Halloween, Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years, we’ve been facing the Valentine’s Day onslaught for a month now.

It’s not that we have anything intrinsically against these holidays. It’s just that it is hard to find the meaning behind all the commercialism and we prefer to take the road less traveled.

For example, if we go out at all on New Year’s Eve, we go early and come home early. We’re more likely to stay home; make dinner for ourselves; and, of course, open a bottle or two of wine. The same goes for Valentine’s Day, our anniversary, and our birthdays.

Of course, one thing about holidays and special occasions is that they do provide prime opportunities to open a special bottle of wine. For many people, and I count myself among them, Champagne (or other good sparkling wine) is a classic choice for making any special occasion even more special.

Certainly, it is a prime choice for toasting the occasion but Valentine’s Day also is the perfect time for drinking bubbly throughout the meal. The combination of good acidity, intense fruit, and, of course, effervescence make for a most versatile combination. And don’t forget that some of the best sparkling wines are rosés (which in Champagne typically are a blend of red wine from pinot noir/pinot meunier and white wine from chardonnay).

A fine choice for Champagne would be the Nicolas Feuillatte NV Brut Rosé ($36). It reveals an intensity of red fruits to the senses that signify the passion of the evening. But the NV Brut ($36), which relies more on pinot noir and pinot meunier than many NV Brut, also is a fine choice. It offers cherry notes but also pear and citrus, accented with floral and hazelnut elements that all merge to suggest the fresh flavors and elegance that tickle the palate. A fun option for those going casual or who just want one glass each is the inexplicably named One Fo(u)r, a 2-pack of mini bottles (one Brut & one Rosé, $30).

Sparkling Wine from California can be a god alternative. The Domaine Carneros NV Brut Rosé Cuvée de la Pompadour ($35) opens up with a delightful strawberry cream bouquet that creates a sense of anticipation more than realized in the racy, playful palate.

Gloria Ferrer’s NV Blanc de Noirs ($20) tantalizes with sweet sensations of red fruits. Then presents a voluptuous palate that finishes with a delightful zest. The NV Brut ($20) goes more for the smooth, sleek approach. It balances perky fruit with a stylish texture that invites you to indulge.

Of course, Champagne and California sparklers are the obvious choices. If you like to shake things up and experiment, you could try an Alsatian bubbly, known as Crémant d’Alsace. But these bubbles are no consolation prize. Crémant typically is light and fruity but offers a nice measure of complexity.

The best place to start is Lucien Albrecht, the largest Crémant producer. The Brut Rosé ($20) is all pinot noir and has the finesse and flexibility to assume any position throughout a meal. The all pinot blanc Brut Blanc de Blancs ($20) is lithe and supple and would do nicely as a prelude to the main course.

Another adventurous selection would be Prosecco (also the name of the grape) from the Veneto. Prosecco makes a great aperitif but can perform well all evening. The attraction is in its light, fresh aromas and clean, delicate fruit, and low alcohol. I’ve recently been enamored of Valdo’s Nerello Mascalese Rosé ($14) in which the nerello grape adds color and spice to the blend and Valdo’s Brut ($15) for its tart green apple flavors.

Actually, now that I think of it, with all this great wine to drink, maybe having all these holidays and special occasions isn’t such a bad idea after all.

January 28, 2011

WORTHY NEW SEASONAL BEER FROM DESCHUTES

Once in a while, this wine guy gets an opportunity to sample new craft beer releases. I’m happy to have one now to recommend: Red Chair NWPA (Northwest Pale Ale), the new seasonal beer from Deschutes Brewery of Bend, Oregon.

Deschutes says Red Chair (6.2% ABV) is named after the oldest operating lift at Mt. Bachelor. They call it their debut Northwest Pale Ale, though not unlike the last year’s Red Chair IPA. I never tasted the IPA; so, I’ll take their word for it.

This one sits in the glass with a copper color and a loosely foamy head. As I sniff, I pick up hints of citrus, bread, caramel, and herbal lemongrass. Sipping reveals more toast and citrus. Dry, bitter hops emerge but don’t overpower. A malty counterpoint asserts itself then gives way to more hops in the finish.

I relate to it as a cross between an IPA and an American pale ale. It is medium bodied and well balanced, with a hoppy personality moderated by malty qualities. I’m told Red Chair began as an experimental beer to test new hops and hopping techniques. Additionally, seven European and domestic malts are key to the formula. The success of the experiment shows in the final product.

Maybe I shouldn’t be surprised Red Chair cleaned house the World Beer Awards. The brew will be available from January until April in six- and twelve-packs and on draft throughout the 16 states where Deschutes beer is distributed.

January 23, 2011January 23, 2011

LOOK TO SOUTH AMERICA FOR VALUE – PART ONE, ARGENTINA

The popularity of wine Argentina and Chile with American consumers has been growing for a good decade now. And it seems to have escalated since the beginning of the Great Recession. This past year I have read numerous reports in the wine press about the growth in exports of wine from Argentina and Chile worldwide, especially in the U.S.

In keeping with this value theme, the main reason for this popularity seems to be that most of the wines remain modestly priced, even as the quality has improved. In this column, I review Argentina; next month it’ll be Chile.

In Argentina, the star is Malbec, from a minor blending grape in Bordeaux (though important in the southwestern France region of Cahors) that experiences some sort of alchemy in these South American soils. Mendoza is the primary source, though other regions have gotten into the act successfully. The warm days and cool nights of this high desert climate (not unlike Colorado) drape the alluvial soils of the high altitude vineyards in the shadows of the Andes Mountains, making an ideal home for the grape.

Much good quality Malbec can be had for $15 or less. Good options from my recent tastings include the 2009 Arido ($10), 2009 Portillo ($10), 2009 Budini ($13), 2009 Tomero ($14), and 2008 Trapiche “Broquel” ($15). While I enjoyed those, the 2008 La Posta “Cocina” ($15) and 2009 Trivento “Amado Sur” ($15) stood out for their solid structure, fine fruit, and unexpected (for the price) complexity.

For just a little more money expect more fruit and intensity from the 2009 Layer Cake ($16), 2009 Michel Torino “Don David Reserve” ($15), 2007 Rutini ($18), 2009 Bodegas Salentein Reserve ($19), 2008 Cruz Andina ($20), and 2008 Trivento Gold Reserve ($21).

The most expensive Malbec in these tastings, the 2008 Mendel ($30), did turn out to be the best. With it’s firm structure, pure fruit, and refined texture, it may be the best value of all.

Other regions are getting into the act, too. The 2009 Ruta 22 ($13), from the southern region of Patagonia, also showed well. Route 22 is the main road used to travel from the East to the West in Argentina. The vineyards lie in the Neuquen Valley located in the southern region of Patagonia. Keep an eye out for wines from Patagonia.

Those who prefer Cabernet Sauvignon also will find something to love from Argentina. For instance, Andeluna Cellars, near the town of Tupungato in Mendoza, has turned out a 2008 that delivers an amazing amount of cabernet character for a measly $10. Another $10 winner is the 2008 Trapiche Oak Cask. And the 2006 Andeluna Reserve also delivers admirable quality at $20, as does the 2005 Navarro Correas Allegoria Gran Reserva ($19).

Many producers also have found success blending Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2008 Amancaya Malbec-Cabernet Sauvignon ($20) easy going and flavorful, while the 2006 Andeluna Reserve Celebracion ($20) is more elegant and complex. Although pricier, the 2004 Navarro Correas “Ultra” ($30) delivers added measures of earth, spice and cocoa, while the 2006 Caro ($50) is intense and firm with good depth.

A great surprise in the tasting was the 2009 “Barda” Pinot Noir ($25) from Bodega Chacra in Patagonia. Surprising in that who would have expected such a delicious pinot with a fine balance of ripeness and grace from Argentina?

The most interesting white wine comes from torrontés, which grows most successfully in the northern regions of Salta and La Rioja. The grape makes typically very aromatic wines, with a bit of spice, and floral notes. Expect stone fruits, melon, pear, or tangerine and a light body. The best of my tastings was the 2010 Crios de Susanna Balbo ($15), followed by the 2009 Trivento “Amado Sur” ($15). The 2009 Michel Torino “Don David Reserve” ($15), 2010 Tomero ($14), 2008 Trivento Reserve ($11 ) also merit attention. The 2009 Trapiche ($8) and 2010 Callia Alta ($9) are good values under $10.

All in all, an impressive showing. For the most part, Argentina wine delivers high quality and flavor interest at reasonable prices. As producers learn more about Argentina’s terroir and work to reflect that ion their wines, we should expect even more improvement.

December 31, 2010April 6, 2011

Have a Sweet New Year!

Something about the cold weather and holidays always gets me in the mood for a good dessert wine. I’ve discovered a few that I am looking forward to helping me get through the rest of winter. Of course, the new year is celebrated in many cultures. So, herewith sweet new year accompaniments from four countries.

Happy New Year!

I believe late harvest wines are the most common dessert wine. Leaving the grapes on the vine past normal harvest until they become super ripe, results in concentrated sugars and a luscious wine. In certain cases, producers leave grapes to hang on the vine until they freeze, thus making “Eiswein” in Germany and “Icewine” in Canada.

Rather than wait for Nature, some producers actually freeze the grapes themselves after harvest. Iconic Joseph Phelps winery in Napa Valley makes a very special dessert wine from the scheurebe grape using this method. The 2009 “Eisrebe” (.375ml, $50) shows amazingly unctuous honey, peach, apricot and citrus. Try it with fruit, blue and creamy cheeses, nut or fruit based desserts, cookies, cheesecake or crème brulee.

Some California producers make a Port-style wine using zinfandel because of its ability to develop naturally high alcohol levels. The 2008 Dashe Late Harvest Zinfandel (.375ml, $24), though not fortified, certainly conjures the character of a Ruby Port. It has fine structure and acidity, with aromas and flavors of raspberry and black pepper.

Feliz Ano Novo!

Speaking of Port, “Port” from Northern Portugal’s Upper Douro Valley (where the growing region is extreme with long hot summers, very cold winters, low average rainfall and rugged, rocky soils) is a different sort of sweet wine. High alcohol (fortified with brandy) and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, it is a powerful wine, even in styles that manage to fashion a sense of elegance. The richness of intense dark fruits and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with an alcoholic kick always warms my soul.

Ruby/Reserve Ports are blended from several different vintages and bottled young to preserve the fresh, assertive style that is ready to drink upon release. Graham’s “Six Grapes” Reserve ($23) is a delectable choice with concentrated black-ruby color and aromas of ripe plums and dark cherries.

Tawny Ports also marry several vintages but have spent extensive time in casks, periods ranging form ten to forty years (the year on label refers to the average age of blended wine). Tawnies mellow in the barrel and are released when their peak of maturity is reached.

For me, the 20-year tawny is ideal, showing the complexity of age but amazingly with the freshness of youth. For instance, Graham’s 20 Year Tawny ($60) has a complex nose of nuts, honey and fig with an impressive purity of fruit. Rich, mature fruit flavors beautifully meld with a luscious texture that exudes delicacy and elegance, while retaining, structure.

Dow’s 10 Year Tawny ($33) is quite fine in its own right but is a little sharper and not as complex, though still quite tasty. Smooth and delicate with a nose of brown spices, nuts and cherry, it exhibits elegance, with hints of dried fruit.

Late Bottled Vintage Port is similar to Vintage Port but spends a longer time in oak cask, typically four and six years and is considered ready to drink when bottled. Dow’s 2005 Late Bottled Vintage ($20) is full-bodied, with rich ripe blackberry fruit but balanced with good acidity and soft tannins. Tasty now, it would drink well for a few years.

Vintage Port is made only in exceptional years from a producer’s top vineyards and bottled after two years in barrel. These wines are highly praised for their intensity and ability to develop over many decades. The 2007 Smith Woodhouse ($56) from very low production, very old vines is a bargain exhibiting enticingly candied and mineral scented aromas, is well balanced, and should mature well.

Although some experiment with Port during a meal, it is best enjoyed chilled at the end of the meal, either with dessert or as dessert. Dark chocolate or blue cheeses are ideal matches but other desserts, cheeses, and nuts can work, too.

Felíz Año Nuevo!

Sherry is another fortified wine made in neighboring Spain. There are dry and sweet styles. Among the dessert styles, Cream Sherry, made by blending a dry wine with a very sweet wine, is the best known. Pedro Ximenex, made solely from the Pedro Ximenex grape, is the thickest and sweetest. The raisin, fig, caramel and date qualities of the third style, Olorso Dulce, is on display in the Gonzalez Byass Solera 1847 ($20). Oloroso is a special strong, well-aged Sherry and Oloroso Dulce is sweetened with Pedro Ximenex. This one is rich and dense, with a velvety palate and concentrated flavors of caramel, raisin and fig, with a touch of almond. Pair with desserts of similar flavors or pour over vanilla ice cream.

Bonne Année!

Finally, I present a ginger liqueur from French producer Domaine de Canton ($32). This unique liqueur is crafted from baby Vietnamese ginger, VSOP and XO Cognac, Provençal honey, Tunisian Ginseng, and fresh vanilla bean. It bursts with flavor, the distinctive ginger enhanced by the Cognac. Domaine de Canton is handmade in small batches and eschews artificial additives, preservatives, or colorants in any stage of production. It is a fantastic compliment to cookies and biscotti.

December 27, 2010

19 Reasons to Consider Wines Made in Colorado

I recently attended “A Celebration of Premier Colorado Wines” at the Governor’s Residence and came away with renewed confidence in the quality of Colorado wines. Hosted by first lady Jeannie Ritter, Gov. Bill Ritter, the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board and the American Wine Society, proceeds from benefit the Governor’s Residence Preservation Fund.

The tasting showcased award winners from a competition judged by experts including Doug Frost (Master Sommelier and Master of Wine), Jeff Siegel (Fort Worth Star Telegram), Bill Nelson (WineAmerica) and local experts from Johnson and Wales University, the International Wine Guild, Denver AWS Chapter, the chef of Charles Court at The Broadmoor, and the sommelier at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House in Greenwood Village.

Of 213 wines entered by 35 wineries, judges awarded 147 medals.

Some of my favorites:
Alfred Eames Cellars (red blends)
• 2007 Carmena
• 2008 Collage
• 2008 Sangre del Sol
Bookcliff Vineyards
• 2009 Riesling
Boulder Creek Winery
• 2009 Riesling
Creekside Cellars
• 2007 Cabernet Franc
• 2005 Merlot
Desert Sun Vineyards
• 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
Guy Drew Vineyards
• 2009 Riesling
• 2009 Gewurztraminer
Plum Creek Winery
• 2009 Sauvignon Blanc
Reeder Mesa Vineyards
• 2008 Merlot
Talon Winery
• 2008 Wingspan White
• 2008 Wingspan Red
Two Rivers Winery & Chateau
• 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
• 2006 Ruby Port
• 2007 Vintner’s Blend
Woody Creek Cellars
• 2008 Cabernet Franc
• 2008 Tempranillo

November 28, 2010December 3, 2010

WINE BOOKS MAKE GREAT HOLIDAY GIFTS

As much as we wine lovers like to get gifts of wine for the holidays, we also appreciate wine books. If they’re like me, they’re always interested in a good reference book. And I’ve got two good ones to recommend.

Although there are countless guides to California wine, I don’t think you can do much better than “The New Connoisseurs’ Guidebook to California Wine and Wineries” ($28) by Charles E. Olken and Joseph Furstenthal. Mr. Olken is best known in the wine world for his newsletter, The Connoisseurs’ Guide To California Wine, published since 1974.

The book begins with a useful primer on California’s wine history, how wine is made, and the most important grapes and wine types, and concludes with a helpful glossary of wine terms. But the heart of the book is the 500 winery profiles, thoughtfully organized by geographic region. After describing each region, Olken identifies the key producers, and includes smallish but useful maps showing their location.

What the book lacks in detail (the profiles are rather short and the Central Coast and South Coast especially get short shrift), it more than makes up for in breadth and especially with critical assessments of each winery. Too many such books are simple recitations of otherwise available facts. Olken wisely adds value with descriptions of the wineries’ style and overall quality. A welcome inclusion is the reading list of important books, magazines, newsletters, blogs and websites focusing on California wine.

This is an indispensable reference and would be a great companion on any visit to California wine country.

Equally vital for its chosen subject is “Washington Wines and Wineries: The Essential Guide, Second Edition” ($35) by Paul Gregutt. Mr. Gregutt, who writes for the Seattle Times and Wine Enthusiast, is one of the foremost authorities on Washington wine.

His guide begins with a history of Washington wine and descriptions of the best regions (with good maps), grapes, and vineyards. The core of the book also is the winery profiles (about 200 of the state’s 500-plus wineries). The profiles are fairly detailed, with descriptions of the key wines and, again thankfully, of overall quality.

I especially like that Gregutt provides a critical assessment of the wineries, considering style, consistency, value, and “contribution to the development and improvement of the Washington wine industry” in his rankings. And in the chapter on the grapes, he also lists who he thinks are the best wineries for each varietal.

If you haven’t discovered Washington wine yet, it’s time you did and this book is a great companion on the journey.

“Reading between the Wines” ($25) by Terry Theise is a completely different sort of wine book. Mr. Theise is famous in the wine world as an importer of wines from Germany, Champagne, and Austria. He also has gained attention for his passionate writing about wine in his catalogue. This book further reflects that passion.

Theise begins by describing how he came to have a life in wine. More importantly, he asks the reader “to accept the ethereal as an ordinary and valid part of everyday experience – because the theme of this book is that wine can be a portal into the mystic.” Along the way he pays homage to particular grape varieties, profound wines and model producers to illustrate the theme.

Theise is trying to convey how wine (and a wine drinking experience) can be more than the sum of its parts. The book is an exploration of the meaning of wine and how wine can deliver emotional, sensual, inspirational, even mystical and transcendental experiences. But only certain wines can do this, only wines of honest origin from artisan producers mostly from the “Old World” (like those he imports).

It’s about authenticity. Mass produced, industrial, manufactured wines may offer a nice diversion now and then but cannot facilitate such meaningful experience. The implication is that such wines are not real wine. They are what might be called (paraphrasing Michael Pollan’s description of processed food) “drinkable wine-like liquids.”

It seems even artisan produced “New World” wines fall short by this measure. In Theise’s world, authenticity takes time. Here is where the “New World” wines of the Western Hemisphere just can’t match the wines of “Old World” Europe. Heard of “slow food?” Well, this is “slow wine.”

The enlightening final chapter on tasting wine reads like a manifesto effectively illustrating the holistic approach to wine promoted throughout the book. It’s one I’ll come back to time and again.

November 13, 2010

California Cabernet Sauvignon Makes a Classy Holiday Wine Gift

the peoples palate by rich mauro — California Vineyards

The holidays offer a great excuse to splurge on an expensive wine gift, whether for a business associate, friend, loved one, or … even yourself! If you or someone you know delights in high end California Cabernet Sauvignon, you might be tempted to go on a (probably futile) quest for a so-called Napa Valley “cult cab.” I suggest taking a different approach: pick up one of the Napa Valley icons below.

Beringer Vineyards is one of Napa Valley’s most historic wineries, having been founded in 1876. Through most of its years Beringer has been one of the state’s best producers. For the past 30 years, the Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon has been Beringer’s flagship wine. This is the ultimate reserve wine, in which Beringer’s winemakers work to craft the perfect blend drawing from the very best lots of Beringer’s very best vineyards. In 2007 ($115) this process yielded a complex, concentrated, highly structured wine. The 2008 Private Reserve Chardonnay ($35) also is outstanding.

For a major splurge, you can’t do better than the 2007 Joseph Phelps Insignia ($225). Mr. Phelps, who was a principal in Colorado’s Hensel-Phelps construction company, opened his eponymous winery in 1974. He was an early proponent of blended cabernet-based wines using Bordeaux as a benchmark. And from day one this has been one of California’s best wines. This wine that puts power and luxury all in balance, like a seamless silk garment with fruit, mineral notes, and lush texture all in balance. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley ($54) is also fine choice.

You also should look to Sonoma County, which often is overshadowed by Napa’s reputation despite often producing superior wines. Stonestreet Alexander Mountain Estate is one of the best of the many properties in the Jess Jackson (founder of Kendall-Jackson) wine empire, particularly with the single vineyard and Legacy wines. The vineyards are located along a western ridge of the Mayacamas Mountains overlooking Sonoma’s Alexander Valley. The 2006 “Christopher’s” Cabernet Sauvignon ($100), from a vineyard ranging 2200-2400 feet, is intense and powerful, with vibrant dark fruit. The 2008 Chardonnays: Upper Barn ($65), Red Point ($55), and Broken Road ($55) are just as impressive.

Rodney Strong Vineyards, one of Sonoma’s oldest modern wineries (founded in 1959), has always been a reliable producer of solid value wines. Recently it has elevated its game and has become a top tier producer, especially with its portfolio of special bottlings (Reserve, Single Vineyard and Meritage wines), also from Alexander Valley fruit. The 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($45), with its concentrated, wild berry fruit and lush texture, and the 2007 Symmetry ($55), a complex, elegant Bordeaux blend, are excellent examples of their type. Whatever the occasion, these are wines will make it special.

November 11, 2010November 12, 2010

Denver’s Hotel Monaco Exemplifies Kimpton Hospitality

the peoples palate with rich mauro — hotel service

So, we had four days free with no particular plans late last month; my son even had Thursday and Friday with no school. We considered taking a trip somewhere but after looking at our options and deciding out-of-state travel was too expensive and too much of a hassle and in-state travel too risky with the weather, we decided to take a two-day “stay-cation” at the Hotel Monaco in downtown Denver.

We already knew this is a classy hotel. We’ been to many events their and have eaten at the excellent restaurant, Panzano several times. But we’d never stayed in a room before. We sure are glad we did this time. Granted, they knew I am a writer and offered a room at the press rate and then gave us two connected King rooms (one a suite). But there is no faking the elegant décor of the rooms and the high quality of the service.

The hotel also offers a commendable range of signature Kimpton amenities: hosted evening reception, a variety of accommodations for the disabled, pet friendly supports, and an extensive eco-friendly program.

And Panzano. Chef Elise Wiggins, a passionate proponent of the organic, local, seasonal movement, is a great chef whose crew delivers outstanding Italian fare. The sustainable approach is not a fad here. Panzano been recognized for its commitment that even extends to using only Seafood Watch approved seafood, fair trade coffee, and biodegrable packaging, to mention just a few responsible practices. And it all translates into soul satisfying food expertly prepared.

We’ve stayed at Kimpton hotels in San Francisco, Seattle, and Washington, D.C. before and Denver’s Hotel Monaco easily lived up to the quality we have come to expect from Kimpton hotels.

November 11, 2010November 12, 2010

Denver International Wine Festival Just Keeps Getting Better

Last Thursday night I joined a sold out crowd for the 2010 edition of the Denver International Wine Festival’s “Taste Of Elegance Chef’s Wine And Food Competition/Auction   Wine.” After six years, the DIWF (which also includes a Grand Tasting and Front Range Winery tour) has evolved into a world-class event, and certainly one of Denver’s premier culinary events. With 12 restaurants and 40 wineries, there was ample variety but a really cool bonus was that the chef’s were asked to create a dish to pair with two selected wines.

These pairings also featured gold medal winners from the Denver International Wine Competition, which had received over 500 entries from around the world.   I enjoyed wines from Andretti, Rock Wall, Dr. Konstantin Frank, and Quady. But my favorite wines of the night were the Zinfandels from Robert Biale.

Congratulations to festival producers Chris and Darcy Davies, who also will donate a portion of ticket sales and all of the proceeds of the silent auction to the Foundation for Sight and Sound’s Help America Hear Program.