Author: Rich

Although sparkling wine is appropriate for any occasion, the holidays are its prime time. Lucky for us effervescent wine is so popular there are versions made in virtually every wine region. But Champagne still is the world’s most prestigious bubbly. And I have two to elevate any occasion. Nonvintage Brut is the most widely enjoyed style because it is the most affordable and represents the signature style of a Champagne house. 

Palmer Brut Réserve ($65) founded as a co-operative in 1947, now includes several hundred growers contributing fruit from some of the area’s best vineyards. It is distinguished by use of a high proportion of reserve wines (older wines) added to achieve richness. With chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier, it is full, rich with pear, apple, citrus, and a slight bread toastiness. 

Telmont Réserve Brut ($76) founded in 1912; today a sustainability pioneer, farming organically, helping suppliers to farm organically, encouraging biodiversity, reducing carbon footprint (including lighter packaging and bottles, more efficient transportation, renewable electricity). Blend of chardonnay, pinot meunier, pinot noir, combine for beautiful balance, with red fruit freshness, light spice.

Since these are a bit pricey, Italian “Metodo Classico” is a refined and classy Champagne alternative. The wines from the foothills of the Dolomites are made with only chardonnay (and occasionally pinot bianco) and pinot nero (pinot noir). 

Franciacorta in Lombardia south of Lake Iseo has an ancient history of viticulture, but its expertise with sparkling wine is about 60 years old. The zone benefits from warm days, cool nights, and mineral rich soils leading to an inherent freshness, ripe character, precise fruit, notable elegance, and silky bubbles. 

Berlucchi ’61 Extra Brut ($39) Berlucchi, with a family history in the area dating to the 16^th century, produced the first Franciacorta Metodo Classico in 1961; chardonnay and pinot nero offer vibrant citrus, apple, toast, creamy texture.

2018 Barone Pizzini Rosé Extra Brut ($60) family dates to the 18^th century but making Franciacorta since 1993; first certified organic Franciacorta; also emphasizes biodiversity and carbon emissions reduction; pinot nero, vibrant wild berry, almond, creamy. 

Contadi Castaldi Rosé ($33) A modern winery founded in the 1980s, this stands out as the only winery with vineyards spread across this entire region, expertly managing diverse soil types to bring out the best in each vine; chardonnay, pinot nero; berries, tart apple, toasted almond. 

Trentodoc, from Trentino north of Lake Garda features high-altitude vineyards, diurnal temperature variations, and limestone soils yielding crisp, bracing yet graceful wines.

Moser 51,151 Brut ($40) Established in 1979, Moser is an innovative winery whose practices are drawn from the region’s farming traditions. The name celebrates the Hour Record (51.151 kilometers traveled in an hour) set by cyclist Francesco Moser in Mexico City in 1984. All chardonnay, very fresh, aromatic, crisp.

NOTE: All are nonvintage, unless otherwise stated.

If you are looking for a wine splurge for the holidays, whether you gift someone else or yourself, these showcase a pursuit of excellence regardless of price. Ranging from Cult Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon to Italian Icons, Rioja Royalty, Chilean and Argentine benchmarks, these are some of the best I tasted this year. 

2019 San Leonardo Vignetti delle Dolomiti ($115) The prestigious Italian wine guide, Gambero Rosso, has named this still family owned, Trentino-based estate – having just celebrated its 300^th anniversary – as 2025 “Winery of the Year”. This proprietary blend of cabernet sauvignon, carmenère and merlot is only produced in great vintages. Its crisp acidity, velvety elegance, will allow it to age up to 30 years.

2021 Luce ($125) While most Tuscan wines focus on sangiovese (and rightfully so), this property, a 20-year collaboration between Tuscany’s Frescobaldi family and Napa’s Mondavi family has always emphasized merlot as part of the blend. The combination yields freshness and structure that support deep, ripe fruit with delicate floral and spice nuances, a broad, lush palate, and satiny tannins. 

2020 Duca di Salaparuta Duca Enrico ($80) For 200 years, the family of the Duke Henry of Salaparuta has been a leader in Sicilain viticulture. The epitome of the winery’s nero d’avola, this single vineyard wine was first bottled in 1984.This is fresh, vertical, with red berries, spice notes and velvety tannins; demonstrating the grape’s ability to achieve richness and ageability.

2020 Viña Seña ($115) In 1995 Robert Mondavi and Eduardo Chadwick (of Viña Errázuriz) pioneered this joint venture to demonstrate the world-class quality potential from Chile. The result: Seña, one of Chile’s iconic wines. Made with 100% estate grapes biodynamically farmed in the Aconcagua Valley, this blend of cabernet sauvignon, malbec, carménère, petit verdot shows well-structured red fruits, herbal and spice notes with integrated oak.  

2020 Viña Cobos Hobbs Estate Malbec Agrelo ($160) Paul Hobbs was a pioneer of Malbec in Argentina, establishing Hobbs Estate in Mendoza in 1998. This wine celebrates the estate’s 25th anniversary, showcasing its best parcels. Amazing for its floral aromas and concentrated red fruits, a juicy, elegant mouthfeel is complimented with well-structured but velvety tannins and a long finish. 

2019 Del Dotto St. Helena Mountain Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons ($250) Del Dotto is a family-owned winery established 35 years ago in the Rutherford Appellation of Napa Valley. It is heralded for its barrel-tasting cave experiences at their two Italian inspired properties. A key component of the experience is learning the influence of the different types of oak barrels. The 2019 American Oak Fouquet Carved & Grooved Block 2 displays notes of sweet spices such as vanilla and coconut, reflective of the wider grain of American oak to accent its ripe cassis. The tighter grain barrels of the 2019 Taransaud French Oak Block 3 impart bright red fruits with mocha and mineral accents and subtle oak notes. 

Drink them yourself. Share them with family and friends. Use them for a nightly meal or holiday gatherings. Give them as gifts. Or all of the above. These wines will save you money you can use for other holiday purchases (or more wine), all while delivering good drinking quality.

Make the Holidays Bubble with Prosecco

• Vincenzo Toffoli Millesimato Extra Dry ($14) fresh, tangy, citrus, peach
• 2022 Corvezzo Rosé ($17) organic, vegan, lively red berries from pinot nero 
• Fiol Extra Dry ($16) floral, lemon, apple, pear
• Santa Margherita Superiore ($25) white flowers, citrus, apple, peach

Best for Food Pairing: Finger Lakes Riesling from Dr. Konstantin Frank 

• Dry Riesling 2023 ($19) from vines planted in 1958, tart pineapple, fresh apricot, 
• Semi-Dry Riesling 2023 ($19) from 1958 vines, subtle floral notes, bright acidity balanced with a hint of sweetness 
• Célèbre NV Riesling Cremant ($25) méthode champenoise bubbly; medium sweet, apple, honey, pear 

Something New and Different from France

2023 Gerard Bertrand “Trouble XP” ($25) these “Organic Cloudy Wines” are unfiltered (and vegan) for an experience close to tasting from the tank, a moment usually enjoyed only by those working in the wine cellars. Their bold textures and vibrant flavors draw you in. There is a white, rosé, and red, each based on grenache. 

New Zealand’s Signature Wines Deliver 

• 2022 Invivio “Sarah Jessica Parker” Pinot Noir ($30) savory, silky, warm spice 
• 2023 The Icon Rock Signature Sauvignon Blanc ($23) refreshing guava, green apple

Friendly Reds from Australia

• 2022 Little Yering Pinot Noir Victoria ($18) tasty entry level wine; fresh, silky 
• 2021 Xanadu Shiraz Margaret River ($22) fruit forward, supple, licorice, pepper

Sicilian Natives

Since 1824, Corvo has represented the finest of this unique island. The light, refreshing 2023 Grillo ($10), the lightly sweet, low alcohol 2022 Moscato ($14), and the rich cherry

2022 Nero d’Avola ($10) deliver quality beyond the price. 

Rosé from Master of Wine/Master Sommelier Doug Frost 

2023 Echolands Grenache Rosé Walla Walla ($26) crisp, lemon, strawberry, cinnamon 

Red Blends: when the sum is greater than its parts 

• 2019 The Paring ($25) supple Bordeaux-style from California’s Central Coast 
• 2021 J. Lohr Pure Paso® ($27) cabernet sauvignon, petite sirah; jammy berries, licorice, cola
• 2021 Unshackled ($26) zinfandel, malbec, petite sirah, syrah, tannat, tempranillo; fruity, ripe, spicy 
• 2021 Avivo Lodi ($24) regenerative organic, cherry, rhubarb, herbal spice

Low Alcohol/Low Calorie 

• 2023 Bousquet LOCA Chardonnay ($14) 9.5% alcohol; organic, intense citrus, peach 
• 2023 Bousquet LOCA Malbec ($14) 9.5% alcohol; organic, light, fruity, easy drinking 
• 2023 Allegro Moscato ($12) 7% alcohol, aromatic, apricot, honey, apple, sweet    
• 2022 Paso Verde White Wine ($25) 10% alcohol, grenache blanc, verdelho, vermentino, refreshingly spritzy, green apple, grapefruit, nectarine

As the calendar marches us into holiday season, most of us will begin soon to plan for our Thanksgiving Day meal. Choosing the wine can be challenging, though. There are so many different types of food, flavors and textures. I’ll simplify matters for you.

One of the favorite choices among my family is Sauvignon Blanc. Although it originated in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley, it also has found hospitable surroundings in New Zealand, Chile, South Africa, and Australia. This column focuses on California. 

The grape’s flavor profile comes in several styles, though it’s usually assertively aromatic, with refreshing acidity. Generally, expect brisk green citrus, grapefruit and occasionally stone fruit, a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. Wines made from riper fruit often display melon, nectarine, peach, or even tropical fruits.

2022 Ancient Peaks ($18) (90) juicy, apple, citrus, saline notes

2023 Charles Krug ($23) vibrant, lemon, lemongrass

2023 Balletto ($25) bright, lime, apple, savory 

2023 La Crema ($25) delicious lime, apple, spicy herbs 

2023 Presqu’ile ($28) citrus, herbaceous, round

2023 Clockwise ($30) elegant, lemon, melon, apple 

2023 Cliff Lede ($38) brisk grapefruit, pear, peach, barrel fermented with semillon develops richness

2023 Goosecross ($39) succulent grapefruit, apple, tropical, honeydew 

2022 Gamble ($55) wonderful, intense, tropical and stone fruit, sharp structure, oaky richness

Zinfandel is my go-to red for Thanksgiving for many reasons. It is my favorite red wine. It is the quintessentially American grape: an immigrant that succeeds here (California) better than anywhere else. Zinfandels have good acidity, approachable tannins, exuberant raspberry, cherry, and blackberry fruit. Aromatically, black pepper is a signature trait, with some versions exhibiting savory and herbal details. 

Seghesio Family Vineyards, founded in Sonoma County in 1895 by another immigrant Edoardo Seghesio, today is one of the finest and most reliable Zinfandel producers – especially with access to old vines, which concentrate fruit flavors and wine volume.

Seghesio sources its grapes from several growing zones throughout Sonoma County. Although these Zinfandels are fairly high alcohol, under the stewardship of Viticultural Director Ned Neumiller and Winemaker Andy Robinson in weaving Old World and New World practices, they taste flavorful, elegant, refined and food friendly. 

2022 Sonoma County ($26) very approachable; abundant fresh, wild blackberry and currant, licorice accents 

2022 Sonoma County Old Vine ($40) 50-75 year-old vines mostly from Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys; spirited raspberry, cherry, forest floor, baking spice, invigorating tannins 

2022 Home Ranch Vineyard ($65) Alexander Valley Estate vines up to 125 years old; bold, edgy black cherry and plum, mocha, polished, luscious, structured tannins 

2021 Montafi Ranch Vineyard ($75) 100-year-old Russian River Valley Estate vines; enticingly complex, bright, expressive, briary, raspberry and red plum, savory sage, licorice, black pepper and eucalyptus, rich texture, fine tannins 

Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous varietal diversity. Except that the native tempranillo alone accounts for over 40% of Spain’s red wine production. 

The two major growing regions are Rioja located in north central Spain and Ribera del Duero a little south of Rioja. Both have winemaking histories dating back 2500-3000 years. The red wines are made in styles based on minimum total, barrel and bottle aging requirements – Crianza: 2 years; at least one year in barrel; Reserva: 3 years; at least one year in barrel: Gran Reserva: 5 years; at least 2 years in barrel. 

Tempranillo typically exhibits cherry and red berry fruit, good acidity and solid tannins, accented with savory notes, including tobacco, leather and red pepper. Crianzas are fresher; Reservas show more oak and depth; Gran Reservas are rich, layered, tannic wines. Prices range from every day to collectible but Rioja is a good value in all categories. 

In Rioja, tempranillo sometimes is blended with small amounts of garnacha, mazuela, or gaciano. The wineries below deftly balance a respect for tradition with modern winemaking practices to produce brighter wines with more fruit and a sense of terroir. Both of the wineries below employ sustainability practices and are certified by the Wineries for Climate Protection organization. 

Ramón Bilbao (established in 1924):

2019 Crianza ($19) hints of smoky oak with dusty tannins 

2016 Reserva ($27) solid fruit, good energy, vanilla, tobacco, smoke, fine tannins 

Conde Valdemar (Valdemar family, vintners since 1889):

• 2019 Crianza ($20) fresh with well-integrated oak, licorice
• 2015 Reserva ($30) sweet wood spice, cocoa, sense of elegance
• 2015 Gran Reserva ($45) intense, full-bodied, cocoa, licorice earth, solid tannins

Tempranillo accounts for 88% of all Rioja plantings. But many producers are rediscovering other native grapes, such as graciano, garnacha, and mazuelo. The 2020 Beronia Graciano ($28) from the first LEED certified winery in Europe, is a different expression of Rioja with fresh, floral, black cherries, savory sweetness, and smooth structure. 

These days, Ribera del Duero is sought after for its more modern styled red wines, particularly from the native tinta del pais variety (a local tempranillo clone). Winemakers there are more likely to craft wines that are vibrant, combining power and finesse, concentration and refinement, as dictated by their terroir. Some of Spain’s most celebrated and expensive wines are produced there.

2019 Dominio Fournier ($30) established in 1960, elegant, structured and intense 

2020 Áster “El Espino” ($40) selection of special plots from the estate vineyard, organic practices; sleek, graceful, seductive 

2019 Áster “Finca El Otero” ($60) single plot selection; bold, creamy ripe berries, hints of tobacco, mocha, white pepper, full-bodied, subtle tannins 

Often overlooked, Southern Hemisphere wines are worth consumer attention, especially from those of you looking for value … and isn’t that everyone! There are some mass production brands but my recent tastings focused on quality wines at still reasonable prices.

Although Australian wine has been struggling in the U.S. market lately (compared to the days when easy drinking volume brands dominated), there are still many fine wines, notably Shiraz, Australia’s signature red wine. The Shiraz wines below deliver solid value and fine quality.

Mount Langi Ghiran in the cool climate Grampians region of Victoria has been home to vines since the late 1800s. The succulent, lightly spicy 2021 Billi Billi ($15) is a fine everyday choice. The vibrant, firm 2021 Cliff Edge ($24) ups the flavor interest with deeper fruit and spice. From the 170-year-old Hardy’s, its 2019 “Tintara” Reserve ($25) from McLaren Vale is delightfully lush, structured and flavorful. 

New Zealand wine has exploded in popularity in the U.S. in recent years. Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are world class. But it is its Sauvignon Blanc that is most popular. I tasted several reasons why.  

Loveblock, founded by Erica and Kim Crawford in the Marlborough region, sustainably and organically farms some of the best. Notably, the juicy lemon, green apple and grapefruit of the 2022 ($32) and the brisk acidity, herbal notes, and yellow fruits of the 2022 “tee” ($34), which is made without added sulfur (a commonly added preservative), instead using green tea extract. 

Over sixty years old Villa Maria is one of New Zealand’s most awarded wineries. It’s certified sustainably grown wines are uniformly stellar. The crisp, fruity 2022 Private Bin ($17); the bright, fresh organic 2021 Earth Garden ($22); the intense, penetrating, complex 2021 Reserve Wairu Valley ($25). 

South Africa also is coming on strong in the wine world. Although grapes have been grown there for 366 years, it is only within the last 30 that South African wine has emerged in international markets. That isn’t surprising with wineries like Chardonnay specialist Capsensis. Its 2021 “Silene” ($40), from the Stellenbosch region (350-year history of grape growing), impresses with citrus and stone fruit and a nice oak and baking spice balance.

Similarly, L’Avenir, whose property dates to the 1600’s, specializes in Chenin Blanc, South Africa’s signature white wine, and Pinotage, its signature red wine. Its complex, generous 2017 “Single Block” Pinotage ($54) is an impressive selection of the finest barrels from its respected Shale Block 2 vineyard yielding deep dark and red fruits, dried herbs, and sweet spiciness.

Finally, Bosman, one of South Africa’s oldest wineries, succeeded with the 2019 “Adama” ($22), a unique blend of shiraz, mourvedre, cinsault, grenache noir, primitivo, and nero d’avola! The winery also is notable for its regenerative practices and employee land ownership program. 

Even with a vastly increasing diversity of grape varieties available to consumers, chardonnay remains California’s most planted white variety and the bestselling white wine in the United States. 

Big, superripe, heavily oaked Chardonnays were popular in the ‘90s but these “butter bombs” fell out of favor with many winemakers and consumers over the last 20 years as they rediscovered balance, pure fruit and acidity. But I have noticed something concerning in my tastings over the last few years: many overwhelmed (me, at least) with characteristics like caramel, brown butter, and heavy cream. Don’t get me wrong; these technically are well made wines. I just think these qualities in excess obscure the elements of the vineyard sources and quality of the fruit. 

My picks for this column are wines (regardless of price), mostly from cool sites, that balance those richer characteristics with freshness, ripe fruit, and minerality, allowing a better reflection of the vineyard sources. 

Look for lemon, lime, apple, pear, orange, tangerine, peach, nectarine, melon, and tropical fruit. Expect palates that are bright, crisp, lively and energetic. Other distinguishing traits, present usually as accents, are noted below. 

Excellent Values

2022 Presqu’ile Santa Barbara County ($22) honeyed, herbal

2021 Mer Soleil Reserve Monterey ($24) almond, sweet spice

2022 Chalk Hill Sonoma Coast ($25) toast, cinnamon 

2022 Sonoma-Cuter Sonoma Coast ($25) soft palate, light oak 

Fine Value, More Complexity

2022 Davis Bynum River West Vineyard ($30) vegan butterscotch

2021 Crossbarn Sonoma Coast ($30) 100% stainless steel fermented, stony

2021 Balletto Russian River ($32) nutty, elegant

2022 Freemark Abbey Napa ($36) vanilla, baking spice

2022 Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars “Karia” Napa ($36) warming spices 

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer “The Cutrer” Russian River ($36) light vanilla, oak spice

2022 Talley Estate San Louis Obuspo ($38) fresh bread

2022 Frank Family Carneros ($40) butterscotch

2021 Daou “Bodyguard” Santa Barbara ($40) nuts, earth

2021 Valdemar Estates Columbia Valley ($40) floral, lush texture

2022 Jordan Russian River ($42) mineral, subtle oak 

2021 Sonoma-Cutrer Dutton ($42) famous vineyard, clove, toast

2022 Goosecross Carneros ($46) sharp, toast, herbal

Significant Investment with Excellent Returns

2021 Rodney Strong Reserve ($50) vanilla, baking spice

2021 The Hilt Sta. Rita Hills ($50) light butter, sea breeze

2020 FEL “Savoy” Mendocino ($52) elegant, toasty

2022 Mayacamas ($65) floral, lush 

2021 Black Kite “Gap’s Crown” ($65) sea minerals, vanilla 

2022 MacRostie Nightwing Petaluma Gap ($66) richness, ginger

2021 Three Sticks “Origin” Durell ($70) sea salt, mouthwatering 

2021 Three Sticks “One Sky” Sonoma Mountain ($70) organic, light butter, electric 

2021 Inman “Pratt Vine Hill” Russian River ($73) nutmeg, hazelnut  

2021 Ram’s Gate “Bucher” ($74) lush, ginger, butterscotch, steely minerals

2019 Ram’s Gate “El Diablo” ($74) intense, grilled pineapple, cardamom 

2021 Three Sticks “Alana” ($80) organic, richness, succulent, light toast 

2022 Odette Reserve Napa ($80) cashew, custard 

As in other areas of life, it’s easy for us to get in a rut drinking limited types of wines. But as in life, so in wine: a diversity of grapes and their flavor profiles is enriching. My recent tasting of “alternative” white wines (that is, no Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc) proves it. You should find these wines bright, food-friendly and enjoyable any time. 

Albariño from Spain’s Rias Baixas region delivers fresh fruity character, citrus and savory almond qualities.The bracing 2023 Mar de Frades ($22) adds mineral and saline qualities, tropical fruits, and eucalyptus. Known as alvarhino in Portugal’s Vinho Verde region, just across the border with Spain, tends to be lighter and brighter. The minty 2023 Mendes & Symington “Contacto” ($22) is a bit different as it went through skin contact to add layers of flavor and complexity. 

Assyrtiko is indigenous to Santorini where the volcanic soil is especially friendly. Known for fresh citrus, flinty character, and hints of sea breeze, here are two outstanding examples: honeyed, peach, smoky 2018 Santo “Selection Cuvee” ($28) and 2022 GAI’A “Thalassitis” ($43) from ungrafted old vines, citrus, stone fruit, mineral. 

Gewürztraminer is one of my favorite wines with its grapefruit, melon and lychee fruit, unctuous texture and suggestions of warm spice, and. The world standard is Alsace (also notable in Italy’s Alto Adige) and there are some fine ones from the Pacific Coast, including this lovely aromatic, vibrant 2022 Bouchaine ($45). 

Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s signature white grape. Also grown in Italy, there are small but increasing plantings in California. It produces outgoing, lively wines, with succulent citrus, stone and tropical fruit, and hints of spicy herbs. I enjoyed the organic, single vineyard, full-bodied, finely structured 2019 Mantlerhof “Spiegel” (Austria, $37) and creamy but refreshing 2023 Abbazia di Novacella (Alto Adige, $25). 

Pinot Blanc. A mutation of pinot noir, pinot blanc is associated with Alsace, Austria, Germany, and Italy. It tends to apple, pear, and melon with a relatively weighty texture. The crisp but smooth 2022 Trimbach ($19) is a fine introduction.  

Pinot Gris, generally noted for full bodied, sumptuous pear, stone fruit, melon, and citrus – is a clone of pinot noir and believed to have originated in Burgundy yet these days is more prominent in Alsace, Germany, Italy and Austria. It’s the leading white variety in Oregon and increasingly popular in California. These Alsatian wines are excellent: biodynamic, lush, amazingly flavorful Zind-Humbrecht “Turckheim” ($28) and organic, biodynamic, succulent 2021 Domaine Weinbach “Clos des Capucins” ($45) from an old vine single vineyard. 

Sylvaner, which is originally from Austria but more common now in Germany, is also produced in Italy’s Alto Adige. It typically makes fresh, fruity wines with crisp acidity, like the herbaceous, melony 2023 Abbazia di Novacella ($25). 

Sparkling wine is the obvious choice for special occasions but it also can be enjoyed any time. Here, I have several options for you.

But first a really, really special Champagne. The 2018 Champagne Christophe Baron “Les Closeaux” ($240, magnum). With 100% organically grown pinot meunier from a (100-year-old) single vineyard, it is a rare Champagne. Baron is the proprietor of Cayuse, the highly praised Washington State winery. But his family heritage in Champagne dates to 1677. This wine sparkles with apple, mixed citrus, and pear given complexity with notes of baked bread, chalky minerality and warm spice delivered with brisk acidity while broadly textured. 

Arguably the best value in Champagne (traditional) method bubbly is Spanish Cava, primarily from Catalonia with native macabeo, xarel-lo, and parellada grapes. Try Los Dos Brut ($13) for fresh, fruity green apple, pear, and soft bubbles. 

I especially like Crémant d’Alsace, also traditional method and usually made with pinot noir or chardonnay. And occasionally with pinot blanc and pinot gris like the Ruhlmann “Jean Charles” Brut ($26), which shines with green-apple and a yeasty note. 

Prosecco, made in northeastern Italy with the native glera grape using the Charmat (tank) method, has surpassed Cava in popularity in recent years with its fruity freshness and foamy effervescence. The “Marca Oro” Brut ($16) and “Marca Oro” Rosé ($16) from Valdo are fine examples why. The 2021 FIOL Rosé ($22) is sleek, elegant, accenting apple and pear with red berries. 

One of its finest producers is Adami. Its 2021 Col Fondo ($20) is unique in that it is traditional method, aged on the lees and bone dry. It shows stone fruit and brioche with more body and richness. 2022 Vigneto Giardino($26), the first single-vineyard Prosecco, offers a vibrant basket of fruit and dry but rich texture. 

Lambrusco (the grape and the wine;) from Emilia-Romagna has gained attention recently as artisan producers like Cleto Chiarli offer mostly dry, often estate-grown, distinctive bottlings. 

• Centenario “Amabile” ($15) succulent, semi-sweet, red fruits
• Vecchia Modena “Nero Noir” ($18) single vineyard, dry, dark forest fruits, rich, full 
• Vecchia Modena “Premium” ($18) dry rosé, lightly fizzy 
• Lambrusco del Fondatore ($21) dry, earthy red fruits, creamy texture 

Finally, an impressive variety from California: 

Pine Ridge Sparkling Chenin Blanc + Viognier ($25) Charmat method, bright, aromatic version of their popular table wine; pear, green apple, honeydew, nectarine, apricot 

2020 Valdemar Estates Sparkling Chardonnay Brut Columbia Valley ($65) respected Spanish producer, Champagne method, very dry, brisk lemon, pear, toasty apple

2020 Halter Ranch “Libelle” Paso Robles ($85) certified organic picpoul blanc, a white Rhône grape that, rendered with the Champagne Method, results in crisp citrus, tropical, and creamy notes 

NOTE: All are nonvintage, unless otherwise stated.

After years of languishing amid negative stereotypes, Rosé wine consumption has increased steadily in the last ten years. Consumers have come to appreciate the quality of a well-made Rosé, as well as its food-friendliness. 

And producers are responding with wines made from a variety of grapes. But generally, expect bright, fresh, crisp wines with aromas and flavors of red fruits, including cherry, raspberry, strawberry, watermelon, rhubarb or pomegranate, and sometimes citrus (orange, grapefruit) or stone fruits (peach, apricot).

The Provence region of southern France arguably has the most prestige, as it has built its reputation over many centuries but especially the last 80 years. Chateau La Coste, with its vineyards that date to Roman timesnow farmed organically and biodynamically, offers fine 2023 examples, including regionally sourced, zesty, elegant Lady A ($25) – cinsault, grenache, syrah; focused, juicy Château Rosé ($25) – grenache, syrah, cinsault, cabernet sauvignon; and creamy textured, Grand Vin Rosé ($35) – cabernet sauvignon, grenache, syrah from old vine estate vineyards.

From nearby Bordeaux, I was impressed with the organic, vegan 2023 Mouton-Cadet “x Mathilde” ($18), a friendly, easy-drinking merlot.

And Chile, a leader in sustainable winemaking, provided a bright, flavorful 2023 Natura Rosé ($15) – organically grown, gluten-free, vegan-friendly with proceeds to 1% For the Planet. 

Italy offers fine “Rosato” up and down the peninsula: 

• 2023 San Leonardo “Gemma” Lagrein ($30) from a still family-owned estate dating to 1724 in Trentino; herbal, mineral notes 
• 2023 Frescobaldi “Alìe” ($22) from an iconic Tuscan family, red/white blend of syrah and vermentino; citrus and stone fruits with herbal notes 
• 2022 Villa Gemma Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo Superiore ($24) montepulciano grapes from Abbruzzo’s Masciarelli winery; savory, juicy, spicy 
• 2023 Donnafugata “Dolce & Gabbana” Rosa ($30) certified sustainable nerello mascalese and nocera from Sicily; floral, mineral, spice 
• 2021 Tornatore Etna ($19) family owned since 1865; another fine Sicilian from the native nerello mascalese; savory, mineral, saline

As reflected in my tasting (2023 vintage), pinot noir has emerged as the favorite grape for California Rosé. 

• Frank Family “Leslie” Carneros ($50) citrus, spice, lovely texture 
• Goosecross “A Rosé for Lucy” Carneros ($39) juicy, intense fruit 
• Presqu‘ile Santa Maria Valley ($32) sustainable, organic, spicy, tangy
• MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($30) elegant, smooth mouthfeel
• Rodney Strong Sonoma Coast ($30) vibrant, savory
• Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River Valley ($20) certified sustainable, soft texture
• One Stone ($18) from Ancient Peaks winery, mineral accents, sea spray 

Finally, excellent Rosé from other varieties:

• 2023 Three Sticks “Casteñada” Sonoma Coast ($45) field blend of Rhône varieties; super flavorful, hint of anise
• 2023 Dutcher Crossing “Winemakers’ Cellar” Grenache Dry Creek Valley ($39) elegant, mineral, tart 
• 2023 VARA New Mexico Rosé ($19) delightful 70% cabernet sauvignon, 30% refosco, from New Mexico’s Middle Rio Grande Valley
• 2022 Barnard Griffin Rosé of Sangiovese Columbia Valley ($15) deeply flavored