The People's Palate with Rich Mauro

ROSÉ IS A FAVORITE SUMMER SIPPER AROUND THE WORLD Dry Rosé has become enormously popular with American consumers. But many only think of it as a summer sipper. With growing production, generally high quality and a wide variety of grapes and styles from around the world, it is time to drink pink wine year-round.  

Typically, these wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. Expect a flavor profile similar to their red siblings, while they drink more like white wines. Anticipate a profile with a range of bright red and citrus fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon). Rosé goes really well with food because it combines some of the fruit and tannin of a red with the acidity and vibrancy of a white wine.

But it can be difficult to decide among the many options. In this column, you will find an introduction to three of the finest sources: France, Italy and California. All wines are 2021 vintage, unless otherwise stated.

Arguably, the most the most sought after French Rosé is Côtes de Provence. Côtes de Provence, especially the area along the Côte d’Azur with dramatic views of the Mediterranean, has a long history with rosé as a prominent drink. The wines are mostly grenache (often with cinsault, syrah or mourvèdre). The following are emblematic of the “Provençal style” of light color, delicate citrusy, apricot/peach flavors with a creamy suggestion.

Domaines Ott 2020 Château de Selle ($55) a benchmark Rosé, this was the best of my tastings; justifies its price with fine fruit (cinsault, grenache syrah and Mourvèdre), supplemented with mineral, saline, and a solid, yet elegant body 

Château des Sarrins. Les Sarrins ($25) a collaboration of Bruno Paillard (prestigious Champagne producer) and the Terlato family (leading wine import company); grenache, cinsault, rolle (vermentino) and mourvèdre; hints of citrus, strawberry and raspberry with an earthy finish 

Rose Gold. ($20) from Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Saint-Tropez (a female owned and operated winery) ripe berry, hint of lemon, nicely layered blend of six varieties.

A large contingent in my tasting was from Italy (where it typically is labeled Rosato). Here are recommendations that span the length of the peninsula.

Veneto. Scaia ($15) from Tenuta Sant’Antonio (a well-known maker of Valpolicella and Soave) rondinella, lively and juicy, fresh and focused 

Marche. Garofoli “Kómaros” ($14) 150-year-old Garofoli farms montepulciano specifically to make Kómaros ($14), crisp with citrus, mineral, juicy

Abruzzo. montepulciano d’Abruzzo; dark, intense, structured

Abruzzo. La Valentina “Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo” ($14) underappreciated region in south-central Italy distinguished with an official Rosato designation of Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, made almost exclusively from the local montepulciano grape; darker color, more intensity, and is more structure. 

Puglia. Masseria Li Veli “Torresrose” ($15) negroamaro; brisk, strawberry, raspberry, spice; “Susumaniello” ($23) a real winner from the ancient indigenous susumaniello variety; fresh, juicy, creamy 

Sicily. 2020 Travaglianti “Etna” ($30) nerello mascalese; nice impact, fresh peach, cherry

California wineries seem to have latched on to pinot noir as the grape of choice for Rosé. At least, most of the wines in my tasting were from pinot noir. This is likely because the grape typically produces lighter colored wines anyway and tends to reveal its primary aromas and flavors at earlier ripeness. The best wines are easy drinking, refreshing, yet flavorful. They exhibit bright, fruit ranging from strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and cranberry to rhubarb, pomegranate, and watermelon. 

These were some of the favorites of my tasting. Note how each sources its grapes from top pinot noir growing regions. 

Pisoni “Lucy” Santa Lucia Highlands ($19) delicate, succulent mixed berries, supple,

Alma Rosa “Vin Gris” Sta. Rita Hills ($35) estate grown, elegant cherry, tangy orange, brisk strawberry, peach

Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22) Russian River Valley and Carneros vineyards, brisk, strawberry, tangerine 

Fiddlehead 2019 “Pink Fiddle” St. Rita Hills ($30) Fiddlestix Vineyard, brisk, tangy, strawberry

Lynmar Russian River Valley ($33) soft, raspberry, spice

Argyle Willamette Valley ($30) chardonnay and small amount of pinot meunier, crisp, creamy watermelon, red berry, mineral notes 

MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($28) elegant, juicy, strawberry, supple

Bouchaine Carneros Estate Selection “Vin Gris” ($29) bright, strawberry, apricot

Acrobat Oregon ($15) juicy cherry, slightly herbal

Grapes originating in Southern France – notably Côtes de Provence (grenache) and Rhône Valley (grenache, cinsault, syrah, mourvedre) – also are popular. They tend to make a rosé a bit richer, offering more intensity with a touch of spice. 

Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Grenache Rosé ($30) sourced from El Jabali estate vineyard, brisk, cherry, strawberry, orange, peach, salty note 

Ram’s Gate Rosé Sonoma Coast ($38) grenache with pinot noir and syrah, tart red berries, citrus 

Anaba Sonoma County Rosé of Grenache ($34) fresh strawberry, tangerine

Finally, there are rosés produced with Bordeaux, Italian and Spanish varieties. 

Acumen “Mountainside” Napa Valley ($35) blend of tempranillo and merlot from the estate Attelas Vineyard, offers bright cherry and strawberry with a slightly herbal accent in a nicely firm frame

Gamble Napa Valley ($26) cabernet sauvignon with some cabernet franc, merlot and petite verdot; tart raspberry, crenberry

de Negoce 2020 Lot 183 Alexander Valley ($13) sangiovese; direct-to-consumer from winemaker Cameron Hughes; creamy, spicy, cherry

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of dreamstime.com.

Considering white wines from around the world, those from Spain and Portugal arguably are among the least known by consumers. And among the white wines of Spain and Portugal, Spain’s Rueda (verdejo grape) gets less attention than Rías Baixas (albariño grape) and Portugal’s Alentejo (multiple native grapes) gets less attention than Vinho Verde (multiple grapes). Let’s rectify that situation. 

Rueda, located 100 miles northwest of Madrid, is mostly flatlands verdejo has been farmed here for 1000+ years. Over the past two decades the grape has finally come unto its own with dramatic improvements in quality. It’s gravelly soils, cold winters, short springs, and very hot and dry summers are the ideal habitat for the grape.

Rueda Verdejo wines often are described as having characteristics similar to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris wines. Most show crisp, elegant citrus or tropical fruit often with herbal notes and broadness on the palate. Some accentuate delicate, bright fruit, while others richness and near-savory nuttiness. 

Alentejo is a large, sparsely populated region in the south of Portugal about 90 minutes from Lisbon.  A hot, dry region, it generally produces white wines with fine aromatics brisk acidity and fresh citrus and tropical fruit accented with subtle minerality. It is a major producer of wine corks and houses UNESCO World Heritage sites. Vineyards have been present there for over 3,000 years and the region has a history of stewardship of an amazing array of native grapes. It also has distinguished itself for its proactive sustainability efforts to address climate change. 

In contrast to Rueda, Alentejo whites are blends of indigenous grapes like antão vaz, Alentejo’s star white grape, which provides aromatics and body; arinto, which adds exuberant acidity, green apple, lemon, lime and mineral notes; roupeiro, for its seductive notes of orange and lemon, hints of peach and melon; fernão pires, which brings aromatics and spice; verdelho, which contributes fresh and fruity character and can develop richness and alvarhino, which originates from the Azores and delivers fresh fruity character that can develop texture.

RECOMMENDED WINES

Rueda Verdejo

2020 Bodegas Vatan “Nisia Las Suertes” ($30) dry farmed, ungrafted vines, some vines as old 125 years fermented in old puncheons and demi-muids, aged on the lees nine months; creamy, full body, elegant, demonstrates the heights this grape can achieve

2021 Cuatro Rayas “Caballito del Mar” ($14) 87-year-old growers cooperative, smooth, fresh, fruity

2021 Protos “Ser Primero” ($14) 95-year-old winery, rich, tropical, apple, fennel 

Alentejo

2021 Torre de Palma Arinto & Alvarinho ($40) on a property that dates to 1338 and now houses an elite hotel; tight, crisp, citrus, spicy hints

2018 Adega de Portalegre “Conventual” Reserva ($25) 67-year-old cooperative, from vineyards in a national park; aged in oak, fragrant lime, lemongrass, succulent

2021 Herdade do Esporão “Colheita Branco” ($18) while the property dates to the thirteenth century, the winery was established in 1973; its vineyards are certified organic; bracing, spicy, juicy

2020 Rocim “Mariana” ($16) organic grapes, good body, brisk, apple, herb, melon

2020 Adega de Redondo “Porta da Ravessa” Special Edition ($15) 65-year-old cooperative, lemon-lime, spicy herb, melon

2021 Marques de Borba “Colheita Branco” ($13) nice presence, juicy citrus/tropical fruit

NOTE: Featured image of verdejo grapes is courtesy of KYSELA PERE ET FILS, LTD.

Chilean Sauvignon Blancs are enjoying a fresh wave interest in the U.S. Chile’s Sauvignon Blancs. Chile’s second most planted grape variety next to Cabernet Sauvignon is well on the way to establishing an equally formidable reputation. Sauvignon Blanc’s modern-day story in Chile begins in the early 1980s when a handful of producers began to explore the promise of coastal regions, with the finest identified with the country’s coastal and cool-climate regions–notably the Valparaíso region, Leyda Valley, Casablanca, Santo Domingo, and San Antonio regions. 

These are not standard supermarket Sauvignon Blancs. They are notable for an herbal, citrussy character; striking acidity; stony taste; and a fuller mouthfeel. This coastal style is a more herbal and citrusy expression than other regions. Generally, expect brisk green citrus (lime, gooseberry) but also other citrus (grapefruit) and occasionally stone fruit and a distinctive (sometimes spicy) herbaceousness. 

• 2020 Viña Garcés Silva “Amayana” ($25) estate bottled, Leyda Valley, San Antonio
• 2019 Ventisquero “Grey” ($25) [Glacier] Single Block, Valle de Atacama, Longomilla Vineyard
• 2020 Matetic Vineyards “EQ” ($20) Casablanca, Vinedo Valle Hermosa, estate bottled, organic grapes
• 2020 Casas del Bosque “La Cantera” ($18) Botanic Series, Valle de Casablanca, estate bottled 
• 2020 Viña Morandé “Gran Reserva” ($20) Casablanca Valley, single vineyard, fermented in oak 
• 2021 Montes “Limited Selection” ($15) Valle de Leyda
• 2021 Viña Tabalí “Talinay” ($24) Valle de Limari
• 2021 Viña Koyle “Costa La Flor” ($18) Organic grapes, vegan, San Antonio

For some reason, it seems California Sauvignon Blanc has often been an afterthought with consumers. Not only does it consistently play second fiddle in popularity to Chardonnay, it seems there is always a new fave that steals consumer’s attention – Pinot Grigio, even New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc – even if only for a limited time. 

But that may be changing. Growers and winemakers are taking the grape more seriously and quality has improved even as more offerings are available. And people who watch these kinds of things say consumer interest is ticking up. This is good news as there arguably is more good California Sauvignon Blanc on the market than ever.

And California also is offering more good Sauvignon Blanc values. These tend to be ebullient and spry with the focus on varietal fruit but all display the grape’s trademark refreshing character. Think of them as everyday go-tos.

• 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard “Fumé” Sonoma County ($16) aromatic, juicy, grassy 
• 2021 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($22), mouthwatering, assertive, structured
• 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley ($20) succulent, creamy, spicy 
• 2021 J. Lohr “Flume Crossing” Arroyo Seco ($14) lively, forward, herbal 
• 2021 Markham Napa Valley ($20) fresh, juicy, tangy
• 2021 Girard Napa Valley ($20) juicy, forward, supple 
• 2021 Matanzas Creek Sonoma County ($22) fresh, ripe, herbal 
• 2021 Justin Central Coast ($14) light, brisk 

As consumer friendly as these wines are, For a few extra dollars, I found more complexity and flavor interest as prices escalated. 

• 2021 Cliff Lede Napa Valley ($28) with semillon and sauvignon vert, fruity, rich, complex, structured, seamless
• 2021 Clockwise Russian River Valley ($30) half sauvignon musque, from MacRostie Winery, tangy, firm, creamy, plush
• 2021 Acumen “Mountainside” ($30) sourced from hillside vineyards, concentrated, rich, sleek, piercing, succulent 
• 2021 Duckhorn North Coast ($32) with Semillon, crisp, grassy, sharp
• 2021 Ladera Napa Valley ($36) with sauvignon musque, tangy/sweet, mouthwatering, focused

Some wines are crafted with the use of different fermenting and aging vessels –concrete tanks, oak, stainless steel barrels, and amphorae – along with practices such as lees stirring to build complexity and texture. These wines share a complex profile of bright, ripe fruit, and sophisticated, rich textures. And they are cellar worthy. Notably, each winery below is from the Napa Valley.

• 2020 Quintessa “Illumination” ($50) significant portions of sauvignon musqué and some sémillon, vibrant, elegant, mouthwatering, seamless
• 2020 Cuvaison “Méthode Béton” ($40) Estate Grown Carneros, the “method” is aging on the lees in concrete eggs (bétons), intense, minerally, lush, juicy, structured 
• 2019 Acumen “PEAK” ($75) from high altitude Attelas Vineyard on Atlas Peak vineyards, brisk, concentrated, stimulating, fennel, mineral

NOTE: Wines are listed in order of preference within each category but all are recommended. 

ALSO NOTE: Featured image is courtesy of Wines of Chile.

Cocktail fans know that the popular Bellini, invented at Harry’s Bar in Venice, is made with Prosecco and peach puree. Wine drinkers know that Prosecco is a satisfyingly fresh, graceful sparkling wine that is one of the best values around.

Prosecco also is the name of the production zone in the hills of the Veneto and Friuli Venezia Guilia regions of northeastern Italy north of Venice. 

Made mostly from the native glera grape (though a small amount of other grapes are allowed), it is produced using the Charmat Method (sometimes described as the Italiano or Marinotti method, with the bubbles coming from the second fermentation in large, pressurized stainless steel tanks (referred to as autoclaves), instead of in the bottle as with Champagne). 

Its fresh, delicate fruit of pear, apple, citrus, and peach fruit complimented with white flowers and a frothy palate make for an easy drinking and modestly priced wine with moderate alcohol versatile for many occasions. 

Prosecco is produced in different quality levels, usually connected to progressively smaller production areas. Look for bottles labeled “Prosecco DOC” (designation of controlled origin) for a basic guarantee of quality. 

But, for the highest quality, look for “Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG’ (“G” for guaranteed). This indicates that the grapes came from a much smaller area around the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene and the wine met stricter quality standards. This historic area of Prosecco production with unique hillside terroir was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2019. 

The wines in my recent tasting (2020 vintage) all were in this classification. And even more exclusive, all bear the additional designation “Rive” to indicate small, hand-tended vineyards grown on special steeply sloped hills. These are named after the individual hills where the grapes originate. There are 15 communes that can make 43 Rive subzone wines.  

• Andreola “Col del Forno” Rive di Refrontolo Brut ($25) floral, brisk, elegant 
• Terre di San Venanzio Fortunato Superiore di Cartizze Brut ($30) most prestigious subzone, floral, creamy 
• Graziano Merotto “Cuvée del Fondatore” Rive di Col San Martino Brut ($40) fresh, structured, mineral 
• La Farra Rive de Farra di Soligo Extra Dry ($25) floral, bright, soft 
• Val d’Oca Rive di San Pietro di Barbozza Brut ($35) taut, persistent 
• Sanfeletto “San Piero” Rive di San Pietro Feletto Brut ($22) lush, mineral
• Valdo “Cuvée 1926” Extra Dry ($24) nonvintage; fresh, ripe, delicate 

And just in time to get in on the recent popularity of Rosé, Prosecco Rosé DOC was introduced in 2020. It is produced with at least 85% glera blended with up to 15% pinot nero. Expect a flavor profile that combines white fruits with mixed berries. 

A fine place to start is the 2020 Zardetto Extra Dry ($17), offering delicate fruitiness, refreshing acidity and a lively palate. The nonvintage Brilla! ($15) shows freshness, lightness and tangy fruitiness. 

Finally, Valdo’s “Floral” Spumante Brut Rosé ($16), a blend of 75% nerello mascalese, red Sicilian grape, and 25% glera, is not Prosecco, since it doesn’t follow the DOC rules. But it is a delightfully unique combination of intensely fruity mixed berries, delicate bubbles and a round finish. 

NOTE: View of vineyard in Prosecco region courtesy of Valdo winery.

We’re in the prime heat of summer and white wines are especially enticing. There is a lot of variety out there and here is a good start for your shopping.

New Zealand wines, especially Sauvignon Blanc, are known for bold, vibrant flavors Sauvignon Blancs. The 2021 Ponga ($15) from Marlborough fruit, it is crisp and pronounced, striking aromas of ripe citrus, gooseberry, and tropical fruit, accented with chalky, mineral tones and progressing into flavors of white peach and grapefruit and pineapple 

South Africa produces more Chenin Blanc than any other wine-producing region (including its home in the Loire Valley) and it arguably is the country’s most successful white wine. The 2019 Raats Original ($15) is unwooded with mouthwatering yellow apple, melon, lemon, and kiwi. But if you come across the 2017 Capensis “Silene” Chardonnay ($40), from a high altitude vineyard in Stellenbosch, don’t hesitate to enjoy its juicy citrus, pineapple and creamy notes. 

When we think of Italian wine, we mostly think of red wine. But Italian whites are a surprising source of flavor diversity. A good example is the bright, aromatic 2019 Luretta “Boccadirosa” ($20). From Colli Piacentini (the hills of Piacenza at the western end of Emilia-Romagna) in view of the Apennines to the north and the Po River Valley to the south, it is made from organically farmed malvasia aromatica di Candia grapes. It is an aromatic wine opening with bright tones of orange, tangerine, lychee, honey and marzipan accented with Sherry notes.

Southern Italian wines, long underappreciated, have recently seen an increase in interest as their quality has improved and winemakers recover forgotten grape varieties. Each wine below recently won an award in the “Sud Top Wine” competition.

Southern Italian wines, long underappreciated, have recently seen an increase in interest. the regions of Sardinia, Basilicata, Calabria, Campania, winemakers are recovering forgotten grape varieties.

2019 Guido Marsella Fiano di Avellino ($22) Campania; rich almond, fresh apple and stone fruits, savory and earthy notes

2020 Mesa “Giunco” Vermentino di Sardegna ($22) Sardinia; delightful tropical fruits, citrus, pear herbs, tangy but round 

2020 Casa Comerci “Rèfulu” ($20) Calabria, indigenous greco bianco grape, ambient yeast fermentation; juicy and tangy citrus, peach and melon, mineral and herbal hints

2020 Ippolito 1845 Pecorello ($15) Calabria, native pecorello grape; vibrant, bright, lemon and peach, mineral tones friendly and enticing

Austria is most known for Grüner Veltliner, a refreshing citrusy, spicy white. But Austria produces other enticing white wines. The three below also demonstrate good aging potential. 

2019 Fuhrgassl-Huber Ried Gollin 1ÖTW Nussberg Gemischter Satz ($30) Gemischter Satz is a field blend containing at least three grape varietals, grown together, harvested and fermented together. This one is mostly muscat; delightfully fresh and intense, yellow apple, orange, peach, creamy texture

2020 Zahel Orange T ($24) biodynamically farmed in the Vienna winegrowing region, the world’s only city also classified as its own winegrowing region, local orangetraube grape (Orange T) usually only used in field blends; refreshing, subtle sweetness, elegant, uplifting, intense peach/apricot fruit mineral and spice tones 

2020 Stift Klosterneuberg “Zierfandler Rotgipfler” ($22) from the Klosterneuburg Monastery Wine Estate; two rare native varieties, 

2020 Stift Klosterneuberg “Zierfandler Rotgipfler” ($22) from the Klosterneuburg Monastery Wine Estate, which claims to be Austria’s oldest wine estate (since 1114); these two rare, native varieties are vinified into a rich wine with friendly acidity, ripe mango, apple plum, and lime 

The country of Georgia is widely recognized as having the oldest known evidence of wine – archaeological findings date Georgian winemaking over 8,000 years. The country is home to several hundred native grape varieties. One I tasted recently, from the tsolikouri grape, the 2019 Teliani Valley ($15) shows delightful, tart green apple, grapefruit and pineapple with mineral elements. 

Despite the increased popularity of Pinot Noir and growing interest in lesser known grape varieties (especially among younger consumers), California Cabernet Sauvignon continues to be the most popular red wine in this country. Not surprisingly, it is the most widely grown grape in the state. (“California Grape Acreage Report 2021 Crop”, California Department of Food and Agriculture, April 2022)

It’s ability to produce wines of deep flavor, complexity, and an ability to improve with age is a winning profile. Thus, its wines often are 100% cabernet sauvignon but many producers follow the Bordeaux benchmark of adding percentages of other traditional varieties – merlot, cabernet franc, malbec, or petit verdot – to fill out the wine. This harmonizes aromas, flavors, and structure for better balance and complexity.  

When most wine consumers think of California Cabernet Sauvignon, they most likely think of Napa Valley. No question prices are high but so is quality. And when compared to top Bordeaux, Napa Cabs of similar quality start to seem like reasonable values. Napa Valley’s generally warmer climate yields Cabs typically known for dark fruit (black currant, cherry, blackberry, plum), olive and herbal notes, noticeable oak, full body, and lush tannins. 

Acumen. This organically farmed Atlas Peak estate has consistently improved over its first decade. Its 2019 vintage portfolio is the most impressive yet. The effusive Mountainside ($75), muscular PEAK ($115), ripe, intense PEAK Attelas Vineyard ($145), and expressive, bold PEAK Edcora Vineyard ($165) share a full-bodied, warm fruit character. 

Brandlin Estate. 2018 ThS Mount Veeder ($135) a selection of the estate’s best barrels; concentrated, earthy, tobacco, delineated

Cliff Lede. 2019 Round About Midnight Stags Leap District ($110) from two estate vineyard blocks – the Yes song “Roundabout” in their Twin Peaks vineyard and Eric Clapton’s “After Midnight” in their Poetry vineyard; vibrant, juicy, rich, savory, plush 

Duckhorn. 2017 Howell Mountain ($105) this was the best of a range of impressive releases from various Napa appellations; ripe, broad, powerful, brooding  

Faust. 2019 The Pact Coombsville ($125) from the Faust estate vineyard in southern Napa; fresh, dark fruits, roasted, earthy, structured

Pine Ridge. 2018 Napa Valley ($65) founded in the Stags Leap District in 1978, Pine Ridge now also farms vineyards in Stags Leap District, Howell Mountain, Oakville, Rutherford, and Carneros; this wine is lively, sleek and firm, minty, with fruit compote 

C. Elizabeth. 2017 Game Farm Vineyard Oakville ($150) a special wine from a special winery by the owners of Napa’s Goosecross Winery; intense, smooth, integrated flavors of fruit, oak, and stone

Gamble. 2017 Napa Valley ($60) from a major Napa Valley vineyard owner with a family history in the valley over a hundred years; warm berry preserves, mint, toasty, solid, plush 

J. Lohr. 2018 Carol’s Vineyard St. Helena ($60) the pioneering Paso Robles producer owns this vineyard in center of the Napa Valley; strong dark fruit, with smoke and pine notes, lush tannins

With all the quality from Napa, it may surprise some to learn that Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma County can reach equal quality levels, and usually at lower prices. Sonoma is generally cooler, typically with more day/night temperature variation than Napa, thus its Cabs display a somewhat tighter structure and a juicy freshness that balances richness. This is especially true of wines from Alexander Valley, which are having a moment as more winemakers seek out prime fruit from the area. 

Located east of Healdsburg, this region is far enough from the ocean to experience warmer daytime temperatures, enabling grapes to ripen, yet close enough for the Pacific Ocean influences to cool mornings and nights, developing a juicy freshness that balances richness. 

Medlock Ames. 2018 Bell Mountain Ranch ($70) organically grown grapes from this estate vineyard that sits at the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountain Range at the southernmost tip of the Alexander Valley overlapping into the Russian River Valley; ripe, lively, elegant, tobacco, chocolate, lively tannins

Stonestreet Estate. 2017 Alexander Valley ($55) high-elevation estate vineyards in the northern Alexander Valley; baked red fruit, herbs, minerals-earthy, structured 

Sosie. 2019 Charlie Smith Vineyard Moon Mountain District ($75) organically grown grapes across the Mayacamas Mountain range high above the Sonoma Valley floor; powerful, dark fruit, bright, supple, bold 

Jordan. The 2018 Alexander Valley ($60) gets special mention here as the winery is celebrating its 50th anniversary with a series of events, including one in Denver early this June that was particularly special as Tom and Sally Jordan founded this estate in 1972 while living in Denver. Their son John, who has run the winery since 2007, and current winemaker Maggie Kruse were joined by several Denver Broncos and top chefs including Colorado Springs’ Brother Luck for a series of events benefiting Clayton Learning Center. 

But the real stars were the Cabs. Over the years they have moved from relying exclusively on estate-grown fruit to partnering with select growers to source grapes from prime locations that allowed them to achieve more elegance and ageability. In addition to some nicely developed older vintages, the current 2018 Alexander Valley ($60) reflects the signature style of approachable elegance with the ability to develop complexity. It is an expressive wine with nicely developed dark fruits, warm spices, and lush but solid tannins.

NOTE: Featured Image courtesy of Sonoma County Winegrowers Association

Chardonnay’s place at the pinnacle of popularity in the U.S. has lasted for nearly four decades. It is the most planted grape and number one in sales volume. Its adaptability to different growing conditions and winemaking styles at least partly explains this. 

There was a period of winemaking excess, primarily characterized by what is now considered overuse of new oak barrels for fermentation and aging, malolactic fermentation, and aging on the lees (spent yeast cells) – all practices that enhance richness and complexity. But too much, especially when applied to overripe grapes, overwhelms the pure, fresh natural fruit of the grape. The result was the stereotype of the big, buttery, oaky high alcohol California Chardonnay.

More recently, winemakers are seeking better balance. More judicious use of these practices produces wines of lush texture but vibrant structure accented variously with notes of cream, butter, toast, vanilla, baking spice, and nuts. The fruit will be prominent and the grape’s natural citrus may be joined with apple, pear, and stone, orchard, or tropical fruit, depending on the climate of the vineyard and the ripeness at harvest. 

The following wines are listed in order of personal preference but all are recommended.

This first group deftly walk the line between opulence and freshness, pure fruit and richness, delivering complexity with oak influence more as seasoning than dominant flavoring. 

2020 Lucia Soberanes Vineyard ($65) ripe, succulent, stone, toast, nutty, savory

2019 Argyle Nuthouse ($45) vibrant, juicy, tangy, butterscotch, toasty, nutty 

2019 Ram’s Gate Hyde Vineyard ($70) fresh, focused, luxurious, stony, spicy

2019 FEL Savoy Vineyard ($52) coconut, brioche, stone, spice

2019 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection ($35) juicy, rich, integrated, textural

2020 Jordan Russian River Valley ($40) luscious, caramel, toast, baking spice 

2019 Cuvaison ATS ($60) full, rich, brioche, honeysuckle, vanilla

2019 Migration Sonoma Coast ($42) broad, lush, juicy, spice

2019 Calera Mt. Harlan ($55) savory, butter, brioche, honeysuckle 

2020 Lucia Santa Lucia Highlands ($50) mouthwatering, toasty, structured, creamy

2018 Medlock Ames Lower Slope ($48) juicy, honeyed, nutty, silky 

2019 Cuvaison Kite Tail ($50) zesty, ginger, concentrated, satiny, oaky, toasty 

2019 Lucienne Lone Oak ($40) fresh, stone, hazelnut 

2019 Dry Creek Vineyard DCV Block 10 ($34) tangy, stony, oaky, baking spice

2019 The Hilt Sta. Rita Hills ($45) vibrant, toasty, ginger, graceful, steely 

These wines veer even more to less oak, more neutral oak and stainless steel, little or no malolactic. They emphasize a fresher, livelier, fruitier, more ebullient style.

2019 Anaba Sonoma Coast ($40) lip-smacking, steely, light oak

2019 Ram’s Gate Estate ($76) ripe, rich, elegant, baking spice

2019 MacRostie Wildcat Mountain ($46) crisp, rich, buttery 

2020 FEL Anderson Valley ($34) zesty, stony, spice

2020 Cuvaison Méthode Béton ($40) racy, intense, savory

2019 Bouchaine Carneros ($36) juicy, spicy herb, anise

Finally, the following wines are very good values for every day.  

2019 MacRostie Sonoma Coast ($26) rich, oaky, caramel 

2020 Calera Central Coat ($26) firm, intense, delicate

2020 Alma de Cattleya Sonoma County ($26) juicy, biscuit, butterscotch

2019 Balletto Teresa’s Unoaked ($20) zesty, searing, steely 

2019 Hahn SLH ($25) snappy, stony, earthy

2020 Raeburn Russian River Valley ($20) structured, light chalk, sweet-tart 

2020 J. Lohr Arroyo Vista ($25) tangy, vanilla, mildly spicy

West Coast Pinot Noir, specifically Oregon and California, is one of the few examples I can think of where we find quantity and quality existing together. The catch, not surprisingly, is prices have escalated rather aggressively. Still, I have found several good values, another benefit of quantity and quality increasing together,  

Because pinot noir is especially transparent of the site in which it is grown, many wineries’ most expensive wines are single vineyard expressions. This post begins with consideration of such wines, all over $50. 

Each wine reflects the grape’s signature characteristics of red berry (especially cherry) fruit, though dark fruits peak in occasionally. Earthy, mushroom, herbal and even floral, mint or anise notes also appear. Creaminess and baking spices from oak add complexity. 

But there are regional differences, and differences even within regions and vineyards, as suggested above. Buy a couple from each region and make your own comparisons!

Oregon’s Willamette Valley, whose Coast Range moderates the cooling Pacific Ocean and Cascade Mountains chill the desert heat of Eastern Oregon, has become Pinot Noir nirvana. 

2018 Archery Summit Dundee Hills ($65) vibrant, generous, tea, cocoa, solid 

2019 Argyle Nuthouse ($55) bright, supple, refined, elegant, silky finish, fine tannins  

2015 Fiddlehead Oldsville ($60) round, firm, rich, complex 

Mendocino County’s remote Anderson Valley, heavily influenced by the nearby Pacific Coast, is becoming known for wines of power, focus and nuance. 

2018 Goldeneye Gowan Creek ($88) ripe, precise, mineral, spiced, rich 

2019 FEL Savoy Vineyard ($75) elegant concentrated, focused toasty oak, spice 

The Sonoma Coast is too large to generalize attributes except to say most vineyards experience extremely cool Pacific winds and fog.

2018 Emeritus Pinot Hill East ($75) fresh, ripe, peppery, seamless, elegant 

The Russian River Valley area winds through Sonoma cooling temperatures ensuring long ripening seasons. 

2019 Ladera Pillow Road Vineyard ($66) bright, savory, cola, silky 

2019 Davis Bynum Dutton Ranches ($58) juicy, mildly smoky, solid structure 

2019 MacRostie Thale’s Vineyard ($58) bursting with fruit, aromatic, firm 

Straddling southern Napa and Sonoma, Carneros is mostly distinguished by the cooling influences of the San Pablo Bay and Pacific Ocean.

2019 Ram’s Gate Estate Vineyard ($85) lively, mineral notes, concentrated, lingering 

2019 Cuvaison Mariafeld ($60) juicy, cocoa, anise, luscious, lively, richly structured

2019 Cuvaison Adda ($80) powerful, bold, bright, concentrated, rich 

California’s Central Coast has several areas producing fine Pinot Noir. But most people likely wouldn’t know that San Benito County sources some of the state’s finest Pinots, namely the age worthy Pinots of Calera in the Mt. Harlan appellation.

2018 Reed Vineyard ($80) intense, earthy, woodsy, smoky, polished, silky 

2018 Mills Vineyard ($80) rich, complex, bracing, savory, seamless

The Santa Maria Valley also is heavily influenced by the Pacific Ocean. In northern Santa Barbara County, its transverse (east-west) orientation funnels cooling breezes and fog.

2018 Migration Bien Nacido Vineyard ($77) exuberant, bright, briary, sleek 

The Sta. Rita Hills, another transverse valley, in southern Santa Barbara increasingly is highly prized for Pinot Noir.

2019 Alma Rosa Rancho La Viña ($68) deep, juicy, lush, complex, rich, savory 

2019 Alma Rosa Radian ($68) bracing, succulent, complex, toasty, mineral, seamless 

2014 Fiddlehead Lollapaooza ($80) ripe, floral, sturdy toasty, cinnamon, elegant 

Pinot Noir Values – Yes, there is such a thing !

The wines below, while not inexpensive by any means (priced under $50), are less so than the ones above, mainly as they are blends of various sites. 

They may not display the uniqueness of single vineyard bottlings. They are likely to be made from younger vines whose grapes may yield slightly less complexity (though, not always). But, while their more expensive siblings are expressive of a single site, these wines are more a representation of the broader appellation.  

Again, I have organized my recommendations by appellation and listed the wines in order of my preference within each appellation. Collectively, they are a cornucopia of inviting, reasonably affordable wines. 

Willamette Valley

2019 Cristom Mt. Jefferson Cuvée ($31) organic, biodynamic, dark fruit, fine tannins

2019 Dobbes Grand Assemblage ($32) juicy red fruit, baking spice, earthy, elegant 

Anderson Valley

2020 FEL ($42) red fruit, spicy herbs, firm

Sonoma Coast 

2019 Migration Sonoma Coast ($44) bright red fruit, cinnamon, anise 

2019 Landmark Grand Detour ($35) bold red fruit, earthy, black licorice, velvety 

Russian River Valley 

2019 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection ($45) lively red fruit, pure, forest, spice rich,

2020 Raeburn ($25) red fruit, baking spice, toasty vanilla 

Carneros 

2019 Bouchaine Estate ($40) dark fruit, toasted oak, sweet spice

Santa Lucia Highlands 

2019 Hahn ($30) dark fruit, earth, toasted oak

Arroyo Seco 

2019 J. Lohr Fog’s Reach ($35) red fruit, Asian spice, rich

2019 Hahn Appellation Series ($25) spicy red fruit, creamy, sleek

Sta. Rita Hills 

2015 Fiddlehead Cellars Seven Twenty Eight ($46) extra aging yields nuanced complexity and integrated qualities but also enough red fruit and structure to develop 

2019 The Hilt Estate ($50) deep red fruit, aromatic, spicy, fresh

Multi-appellation

2019 Calera Central Coast ($32) vibrant red fruit, juicy, anise, firm 

2020 One Hope Monterey County ($40) red fruit, anise, earthy, lush

2019 Landmark Overlook ($27) vibrant red berry, vanilla, cinnamon, toast

2020 Chamisal San Louis Obispo County ($24) tart red fruit, earthy mushroom

2019 Erath Oregon ($20) red fruit, savory, earthy 

2019 Banshee Sonoma County ($28) red fruit, tangy, forest, light oak, herbal 

2019 Charles Woodson’s Intercept Monterey County ($20) tart red fruit, spicy finish

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Camera Vineyards

Spain and Portugal share a remarkable landscape, the Iberian Peninsula, home to some of the most interesting wine grapes and fascinating wines. 

Spain has one of the world’s most expansive wine cultures with notable vineyard areas and distinctive native grapes reflecting enormous wine diversity in every region of the country. 

Arguably the most famous region in Spain is Rioja located in the Ebro River Valley in north central Spain. In view of the Sierra de Cantabria Mountains, its vineyards are blanketed with tempranillo vines, Spain’s most planted red grape. Here, the variety typically exhibits cherry, black and red berries, and savory notes of tobacco and spice. It sometimes is blended with small amounts of native garnacha, mazuela, or graciano and the best are rich, complex wines. Prices range from every day to collectible but Rioja is a good value in all categories. 

Bodegas Montecillo, one of the pioneering wineries in the Rioja with 150 years of operation. Not surprisingly, its wines are more traditional in style, particularly with longer aging before release to develop more mature, complex wines. But the winery also employs modern practices that help maintain freshness and fruit. 

• 2017 Crianza ($12) vibrant, easygoing, touches of oak and spice 
• 2013 Reserva ($18) smoky, elegant, dense fruit, suggestion of cinnamon, silky 

Ramón Bilbao, established in 1924, produces a more modern, bold style largely due to maturing in smaller oak barrels. Its 2017 Crianza ($19) is fresh with hints of oak and dusty tannins. The 2015 Reserva ($27) shows vanilla notes, solid fruit and good acidity. The 2016 Limited Edition ($27) is the “second wine” to Bilbao’s old vine signature wine; fruit forward, toasty, earthy, with spicy oak. 

Ramón Bilbao, established in Haro in the heart of Rioja Alta in 1924, produces a more modern, fresh style of wine focused on terroir, site-specific vineyards and the pursuit of innovation. Sustainability is also at the heart of the winery’s philosophy. Certified by the Wineries for Climate Protection organization, Ramón Bilbao has already reached its target in the four basic pillars of sustainability: reduction of greenhouse gases, energy efficiency, water management and reduction of waste. 

• 2017 Crianza ($19) fresh with hints of pepper, tobacco and leather, fairly oaky and smoky with dusty tannins 
• 2015 Reserva ($27) a more modern style due to maturing in smaller oak barrels; notes of vanilla traces of tobacco, smoke, good acidity and, fine tannins and a soft texture savory sour note
• 2016 Limited Edition ($27) technically a Crianza, this is better thought of as the “second wine” of Mirto, Bilbao’s old vine signature wine; fruit forward, toasty, earthy, chocolate, hints of vanilla and oak spice

Portugal’s Douro Valley is world renowned for its dramatically sloping hillsides and terraced vineyards, and especially the Port wines produced there. This fortified (with brandy) red dessert wine comes in several styles but typically is high alcohol and bursting with red and black fruit flavors, richness and natural sweetness balanced with refreshing tannin and finished with a kick always warms my soul.

One of my favorite styles is Tawny Port. These nonvintage wines marry several vintages and spend extensive time in casks, periods ranging from an average of ten to forty years. Tawnies mellow in the barrel and are released when their peak of maturity is reached. Tawny Port is known less for power and concentration than for complexity, purity of fruit and finesse. Also expect a distinctive almond character, admirable balance, elegance and a silky texture. 

The great Tawny Ports of Dow’s are particularly good when drunk slightly chilled in warmer weather. Dow’s Port, dating its origins to 1798 and now part of the Symington Family Estates, Dow’s has a long history as one of the most important names in Port. Dow’s tawny Ports are slightly less sweet than most, although they retain the classic richness of all Port wines, and often better balance. 

• 10 Year Old Tawny ($39) a fine introduction to tawny style, bright and lively, yet pure and mellow, caramel and toffee; complexity is not the issue here but a suggestion of graceful power meets almond and cinnamon elements, and a round texture

• 20 Year Old Tawny ($67) some noticeable wood, concentrated fruit, slightly sweeter but balanced with fine acidity and alcoholic power and a touch of bitter almond and butterscotch; a hint of spice impressively counters its woody attitude

Northern Portugal’s Vinho Verde (Green Wine) is about as opposite to Port as you can get. It is notable for distinctively light, refreshing, low alcohol wines. Alvarinho (known as albariño in nearby Spain) is the predominant variety, though other native grapes (including arinto and loureiro) are used. The wines are fresh and fruity, brisk (sometimes even spritzy) yet harmonious. All of the wines in this report are from 2020. They are wonderful for casual drinking, versatile with food and generally best enjoyed young. 

These wines are listed in order of my preference but all are recommended:

• Quinta da Raza Alvarinho ($15) generous grapefruit and pear
• Soalheiro Alvarinho ($22) concentrated but elegant orange and stone fruits 
• Casa de Vila Verde Tiroliro Branco ($12) luscious pear and lemon with mineral 
• Encostas do Lima Medium Dry ($13) pineapple, mango, papaya, pleasantly sweet
• Adega Ponte da Barca Premium ($9) juicy lemon and mineral 
• Portal da Calcada Reserva ($14) slight spritzy, vivid fruit, floral notes 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Quinta-da-Perdiz

Within sight of the Alps, Piemonte (the Italian spelling, it’s Piedmont in English) in northwestern Italy arguably is, along with Tuscany, Italy’s most famous wine producing region. Of course, that’s like deciding whether George Washington is more famous than Abraham Lincoln.

And that fame is mostly centered on two wines from the Langhe subregion: Barolo and Barbaresco. These wines are always made 100 percent of the indigenous nebbiolo grape. Curiously, nebbiolo appears capable of reaching such heights only in Piemonte, as there are very few examples of similar quality produced anywhere else. There’s just something about this grape grown in this place as expressed in the resulting wines that testify to the synergy of grape and terroir. Maybe it’s the proximity to the Alps and the Ligurian Sea, and the resulting cooler climate and prominent fog (nebbia is Italian for fog). 

Named after towns in the region, among serious wine lovers, Barolo and Barbaresco are considered among the world’s great red wines. Presenting different expressions of nebbiolo, Barolo is most often characterized as more muscular and tannic, larger scaled, and somewhat austere but with dramatically intense fruit. In Barbaresco, the soil is more fertile, thus the wines tend to be slightly less tannic but better balanced. Still, both exhibit substantial tannins and typically display enticing cherry fruit and notes of roses and what has been described as tar. Still, both deftly exhibit a balancing act of elegance with substantial tannins. A typical flavor profile includes enticing cherry and raspberry fruit with pungent, smoky forest or tobacco and often menthol notes.

If you want a sense of what all the fuss is about at more affordable prices, wines labeled “Langhe Nebbiolo”, usually feature grapes from younger vines and multiple vineyard sources. The wines approximate their bigger siblings but with lesser intensity and softer palates.

Importantly, Piemonte is more than nebbiolo. Beyond these icon wines is a quite diverse panoply of native grapes that produce fascinating, affordable wines. Probably the next most significant is barbera, the mostwidely planted grape in the region. Its many benefits include a generally juicy, easy drinking character and reasonable cost, resulting in an ideal everyday wine. It typically produces rich, concentrated dark berry flavors, often with hints of licorice, and occasionally earthy notes with good acidity but softer tannins. Barbera from Astiand Alba (towns in the Langhe) are what you want to look for.

Dolcetto is another important red variety. The
grape is appealing for its exuberant fruitiness, tangy bitterness, and affordability. It’s the classic drink now wine. 

Barolo

2017 Pio Cesare “Pio” ($85) bold, tight yet harmonious, full but firm, fine tannins, licorice and smoke notes

2015 Enrico Serafino “Monclivio” ($46) solid introduction to Barolo; firm structure, fine texture, juicy, tobacco hints

Barbaresco 

2017 Marchesi di Grésy “Martinenga” ($65) bright, delightfully candied fruit, rich earth accent, mint, tobacco, supple, vibrant finish 

Langhe Nebbiolo 

2018 Vietti “Perbacco” ($29) intense, minty, black pepper 

2018 Enrico Serafino “Picotener” ($25) charming, earthy, spice, soft frame 

2019 Marchesi di Gresy “Martinenga” ($26) vinous, slightly bitter, spicy

Barbera d’Asti 

2019 Vietti “Tre Vigne” ($18) concentrated, licorice, spice, supple 

2018 Marchesi di Gresy ($19) floral, elegant, soft, bracing, subtle spice 

Barbera d’Alba 

2018 Pio Cesare ($25) easy going, saturated, mineral, spice, tangy finish 

Langhe Dolcetto d’Alba

2019 Marchesi di Gresy “Monte Aribaldo” ($19) delightfully light, piquant, bright, supple 

NOTE: Featured image courtesy of Marchese di Grey